The most important thing to remember is that, when they're free, the will lift with VERY little force. Do not force them up.
They are soldered down. You will have to heat the insulator from the back after removing the board from the sink and cleaning all heatsink compound from the insulator.
Do you have a small butane torch (not a large propane torch) or a heat gun?
Do you have any binder clips (like those used to bind large stacks of papers?
They are soldered down. You will have to heat the insulator from the back after removing the board from the sink and cleaning all heatsink compound from the insulator.
Do you have a small butane torch (not a large propane torch) or a heat gun?
Do you have any binder clips (like those used to bind large stacks of papers?
The amp will have parallel outputs which can make it appear that more are shorted than there are. Find the ones with the lowest resistance from leg 1-2 and cut all legs free. Does this allow the amp to power up?
The following is the basic procedure for removing the transistors but it can wait until we determine how much damage there is to the rest of the amp.
Use the binder clips on the adjacent transistors to prevent them from lifting. Heat the back of the insulator (being careful not to heat the board) until the defective transistor will slide off of the insulator.
The following is the basic procedure for removing the transistors but it can wait until we determine how much damage there is to the rest of the amp.
Use the binder clips on the adjacent transistors to prevent them from lifting. Heat the back of the insulator (being careful not to heat the board) until the defective transistor will slide off of the insulator.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.