RF Power T600 Short Plz HELP!!!

Status
Not open for further replies.
I'm checking out your power supply page and I don't understand why it's so huge. I am comparing it to the power supply in my amp that I'm fixing and it's hardly anything. Why is that thing so big, yet only 800W non continuous? Am I missing something?
 
Audio = non-continuous. Continuous would be a constant draw from it with no breaks such as connecting a resistor to its output.

Through-hole vs SMD

Highly configurable. Capable of being used for many different types of applications.

If you have any other questions about it, have a moderator move this to a new thread.
 
Perry, what would be the best way for me to learn enough about amps to be able to design my own from the ground up? What would you suggest? I really want to do this. Just to give you an idea, I have been into electronics for about 4 or 5 years, I know all the basics, I've made some pcb's, but I am definitely no engineer, but would love to be. I know the basics of how a transistor works, but not all of the complications of a transistor. I'm reading up on them now, biasing and whatnot.
 
This thread isn't really the place for this. Imagine that you found this site when looking for help with a T600 and had to weed through all sorts of other stuff to find the T600 material. The thread isn't just for one person. It remains to help any others who need similar help.

This is the last question I'll answer that doesn't pertain to the T600.

Read Douglas Self's Audio Power Amplifier Design book if you want to understand standard 3-stage amplifiers.

The ChipQuik isn't really needed for transistors. Apply additional solder to all 3 terminals. Lay the iron across 2 and lift the transistor. Quickly go to the other terminal and wipe it off of the pads. If you're not able to do that before the solder on the base/emitter freezes, desolder them and then wipe it off of the pads.

For the one you removed, desolder the pads, add new (normal) solder and desolder again. You have to remove all (as much as possible) CQ to prevent the new components from falling off of the board at normal operating temperature.
 
Ok, and I'm sorry about the question, it won't happen again. As far as the T-600 goes, when I test it, I am wondering if I should be looking for a sine or square wave on my scope. I've been testing other small amplifiers just to see and so far I'm seeing very fast square waves. No sine. I just figured since it's AC that it should be a sine wave.
 
Perry, the parts are all here! But before I solder the small driver transistors to the board, I wanted to ask you how I should do it. Clean the pads off completely of residual solder? Or can I leave it on there. I've always left it on in the past when doing surface mount replacement, but I want to do it right.

Thanks
 
Also Perry, I am doing the transistor test on all of my mosfets pnp and npn for the output. Something is not adding up. First off, in your tutorial for measuring them, it says that N channel, black on middle leg and red on right leg I should get .445 ohm. Well on the ones I have old AND brand new, I am getting from 150 to 550 ohm. Even on the new ones, one has 273 and one has 539! Isn't that a huge difference? Is this bad? Also on one of the new ones, when I measure the other way around on the middle and right, it goes to a high number, then to open. But all the other new ones, it goes right to open. I'm a little weary about these transistors now. I think they should all match as closely as possible. But this is a huge difference, hundreds of ohms. Any input?

Thanks again Perry, I really appreciate the time you're taking to help me.

P.S. Everything is being tested out of circuit.
 
In fact Perry, every transistor I have measured in that manner, I get hundreds of ohms. I've never gotten a fraction like that. I short the gate and source together, I am using the proper polarities b/c the other polarity gives me an open, and I'm testing the proper legs, the right two. So far every single one I've tested, even ones in my parts drawers measure hundreds of ohms. . .
 
Yes, you're right, it says volts. But with the craftsman meter, it measures 500 ohms in the same function, idk why. But either way, I got it now. . . thank you again Perry, so now I will be able to test all of them, but my worry is the huge difference I was getting when using the craftsman meter in ohms. . . is that bad?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.