Thanks buddy, but... My B-226S has that O ring and bushing in your drawing right at its location all right. Probably, I need to flip the draw over and check the other side... 
Also, the CD transport in this 226S is CDM1 Mk-II (flat aluminum platform with rectangular grids on the up side of the transport), but should it be CDM1?! The previous owner(s) obviously had a great idea: a small spring to lift the arm a bit and duct taped the other end of the spring on the aluminum chassis...
BTW, my B-760's output stage originally uses LM301s and tantalum coupling caps, but I switched them to LM45710 and Elna Silmic-II, and I like the result. Very musical, not lean at all.
Also, the CD transport in this 226S is CDM1 Mk-II (flat aluminum platform with rectangular grids on the up side of the transport), but should it be CDM1?! The previous owner(s) obviously had a great idea: a small spring to lift the arm a bit and duct taped the other end of the spring on the aluminum chassis...
BTW, my B-760's output stage originally uses LM301s and tantalum coupling caps, but I switched them to LM45710 and Elna Silmic-II, and I like the result. Very musical, not lean at all.
I got another Revox B126 player, and after two days, it quits! Open up the lid, I saw 2 suspicious places: 1. ZTX651 was fried long time ago, and the previous owner replace it by something else (TO-92 one), and it is fried also. (definitely not ZTX651, and I repalced it by ZTX653) another place is the BD136, it was fried (dark mark on the PCB) and been replaced by BD140, that is fine. Nowadays, if I am lucky, it can play, but most of the time, it does not play. I tried to use my hand to "help" CDM4 to spin a little, but it is like locked, I cannot spin it in either directions. Look like the motor servo circuit are gone...
Anyone has experience this problem? Thanks a lot.
Yours Truly. Steve
Anyone has experience this problem? Thanks a lot.
Yours Truly. Steve
OK, I finally have some time to take my 226-S apart and checked the burned transistors on the 126 DAC board. The following things are what I have found so far...
1. in my B226S (got it recently from a Canadian folk: http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/109659-revox_b226s__b226s_cd_player_with_remote/), the transport used is CDM 4/26, and the height of this transport is too high, so the puck arm will sit right on the CD and create some scratching noise! I am not sure whether it is the original transport or has been replaced...
2. in my B126 (got it from audiogon.com): the failed transistors and diode are Q1 (BD136), D5 (1N4448) and Q5 (ZTX651). And they had been replaced by BD140 (I agree with no problem about this substitution, however, the de/soldering work was done very poorly: missing PCB copper trace and been replaced by legs of this transistor. D5 was replaced by 1N4148 (not the higher current equivalence 1N4448), Q5 was replaced by some TO-92 packaged transistor. Since Q5 burned out, I could not tell the number, but I am 1000% sure it is not ZTX651/653!
These 2 players in total costs me more than $1K, now, I need to change almost all parts (caps, transistors, diodes...) on 126's power supply circuit, and hope that the transport is still alive. However, regarding my 226S, if I can manage to make my 126 back alive, I will try to swap the transports. If the transport from 126 can be used in 226S, then I will try to find a "organ donor" to get the transport. Otherwise... My 1K is down the drain.
1. in my B226S (got it recently from a Canadian folk: http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/109659-revox_b226s__b226s_cd_player_with_remote/), the transport used is CDM 4/26, and the height of this transport is too high, so the puck arm will sit right on the CD and create some scratching noise! I am not sure whether it is the original transport or has been replaced...
2. in my B126 (got it from audiogon.com): the failed transistors and diode are Q1 (BD136), D5 (1N4448) and Q5 (ZTX651). And they had been replaced by BD140 (I agree with no problem about this substitution, however, the de/soldering work was done very poorly: missing PCB copper trace and been replaced by legs of this transistor. D5 was replaced by 1N4148 (not the higher current equivalence 1N4448), Q5 was replaced by some TO-92 packaged transistor. Since Q5 burned out, I could not tell the number, but I am 1000% sure it is not ZTX651/653!
These 2 players in total costs me more than $1K, now, I need to change almost all parts (caps, transistors, diodes...) on 126's power supply circuit, and hope that the transport is still alive. However, regarding my 226S, if I can manage to make my 126 back alive, I will try to swap the transports. If the transport from 126 can be used in 226S, then I will try to find a "organ donor" to get the transport. Otherwise... My 1K is down the drain.
SteveSun said:
My B126 also has the CDM4/26 but my B226S has the cdm1 mk2.
It will be original.
CDM4s are fairly plentiful and cheap on Ebay and are fitted to many Philips/Marantz models (see
http://www.marantzphilips.nl/the_complete_d_a_dac_converter_list/ )
Andy
OK, the "puck" problem is solved: I took out the "arm" carefully by squeeze the hinges and push toward the back... Guess what?! There is another plastic "rail holder" on the arm with his shoe missing! Put the shoe back into the correct location, slide the puck arm carefully from the back into the position (align the rail holder first, then push it carefully toward the front), the arm is back to its normal position.
I found another strange thing: the transport on my 226S has aluminum cap with square grids on top (or some other kind of alloy, but it has a sticker at the back saying: CDM4/?? (forgot, plz see my previous post), however, my 126 has "plastic" CDM4/?? transport. Is this strange?
Sound performance, I feel 126 sounds better than 226?! Maybe the previous 226S owner abuse it too much...
I am going to build an external clock (Kwak), independent power supplies to all the chips, and get rid of the noise generated by pin 14 of SAA7220, change OP amps to BB OPA2111 (dual OPA-111), and the output caps to Black Gate N. Does anyone know what is the "life time" of those 3 filtering caps (1000 uF, 1000 uF, 2200 uF)? Should I change them if I can find the original? (ROE)?
Thanks.
I found another strange thing: the transport on my 226S has aluminum cap with square grids on top (or some other kind of alloy, but it has a sticker at the back saying: CDM4/?? (forgot, plz see my previous post), however, my 126 has "plastic" CDM4/?? transport. Is this strange?
Sound performance, I feel 126 sounds better than 226?!
Maybe the previous 226S owner abuse it too much... I am going to build an external clock (Kwak), independent power supplies to all the chips, and get rid of the noise generated by pin 14 of SAA7220, change OP amps to BB OPA2111 (dual OPA-111), and the output caps to Black Gate N. Does anyone know what is the "life time" of those 3 filtering caps (1000 uF, 1000 uF, 2200 uF)? Should I change them if I can find the original? (ROE)?
Thanks.
Hi Andy: may I ask you a question regarding the Revox 126/226 non-oversampling modification.
People mentioned: pin 1 of SAA7220 to pin 1 of TDA, pin 2 to pin 2 and pin 3 to pin 3, then cut the SAA7220 signal output traces. I do not have any question of this part (on paper). It just wants to feed TDA directly with signals from SAA7210. However, pin 1 of TDA1541A is set to "HIGH" (5V), if we use the mod people mentioned above, after connecting pin 1 of SAA7220 to pin 1 of TDA, SAA7220 pin 1 will be also pulled up to "HIGH" (thru R38, 4.7K). Will this create problems for SAA7220?
Also, this modification will loss the original MUTE function and need to be re-wired, but the Revox implemented the MUTE function by a Q8 switch transistor in between SAA7220 pin 15 and TDA1541A pin 3, instead of using the pin 23 of SAA7220. If, again, we follow most people do: by connecting pin 23 of SAA7220 to pin 11 of SAA7210 and floating the pin 11 of SAA7210, this will effect the original SAA7220 pin 23 wiring to the uP...
This mod sounds like it is going to create an "avalanche" effects of lots of functions of B126/226. Have you tried this mod on your 126/226, and how do you manage to handle this situation?
Thanks, Steve
People mentioned: pin 1 of SAA7220 to pin 1 of TDA, pin 2 to pin 2 and pin 3 to pin 3, then cut the SAA7220 signal output traces. I do not have any question of this part (on paper). It just wants to feed TDA directly with signals from SAA7210. However, pin 1 of TDA1541A is set to "HIGH" (5V), if we use the mod people mentioned above, after connecting pin 1 of SAA7220 to pin 1 of TDA, SAA7220 pin 1 will be also pulled up to "HIGH" (thru R38, 4.7K). Will this create problems for SAA7220?
Also, this modification will loss the original MUTE function and need to be re-wired, but the Revox implemented the MUTE function by a Q8 switch transistor in between SAA7220 pin 15 and TDA1541A pin 3, instead of using the pin 23 of SAA7220. If, again, we follow most people do: by connecting pin 23 of SAA7220 to pin 11 of SAA7210 and floating the pin 11 of SAA7210, this will effect the original SAA7220 pin 23 wiring to the uP...
This mod sounds like it is going to create an "avalanche" effects of lots of functions of B126/226. Have you tried this mod on your 126/226, and how do you manage to handle this situation?
Thanks, Steve
Hi Andy: if you want to get rid of the noise from the X/O on the display, try this:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103222
or its smaller cousins.
I still think the power supply of 226 is not "beefy" enough to power all components on the DAC board, and also SAA7220 creates lots of HF (feed into Pin 1 of TDA1541A) noise on analog ground, digital ground. Maybe I need to build a (or 2) seperate power supplies for SAA7220 and TDA1541A. But before doing that, I will try to use some ferrite beads around these 2 chips to isolate HF noise they created if that is possible.
Since I am a hard-core diyer, I may eventually remove some power supply jumpers, and use dedicate PS for important chips and use ferrite bead (not a 0.022uF cap and a resistor) to connect D-GND and A-GND. Also, I will re-wire the S/PDIF signals from SAA7220 using shielded twisted pairs going thru the space between the right side of the chassis to reduce this RF antenna on the PCB... Make sure you sit on a tight and steady chair before putting the scope probes into this player, and maybe call 911 before doing so.
The bottom line: TDA1541A and the CDM1-II transport are very very good!
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103222
or its smaller cousins.
I still think the power supply of 226 is not "beefy" enough to power all components on the DAC board, and also SAA7220 creates lots of HF (feed into Pin 1 of TDA1541A) noise on analog ground, digital ground. Maybe I need to build a (or 2) seperate power supplies for SAA7220 and TDA1541A. But before doing that, I will try to use some ferrite beads around these 2 chips to isolate HF noise they created if that is possible.
Since I am a hard-core diyer, I may eventually remove some power supply jumpers, and use dedicate PS for important chips and use ferrite bead (not a 0.022uF cap and a resistor) to connect D-GND and A-GND. Also, I will re-wire the S/PDIF signals from SAA7220 using shielded twisted pairs going thru the space between the right side of the chassis to reduce this RF antenna on the PCB... Make sure you sit on a tight and steady chair before putting the scope probes into this player, and maybe call 911 before doing so.
The bottom line: TDA1541A and the CDM1-II transport are very very good!
I have just disassembled my B-226 for the general overhaul. I am afraid that the O-ring which goes together with nylon bush on the clamp mechanism is missing. The transport still opens and closes smoothly but I would like to find a replacement and fit it back in.
Does anybody have dimensions (i.e. outer diameter, inner diameter, thickness) and maybe a of the part in question? Is it just a washer of proper dimensions? Thanks in advance.
Does anybody have dimensions (i.e. outer diameter, inner diameter, thickness) and maybe a of the part in question? Is it just a washer of proper dimensions? Thanks in advance.
Hello,
I was given a B226S which is still running, however with very strange but regular noises from the transport, like the CD is spinning off-centered or something similar.
The issue severity varies from time to time, sometime the transport runs (more or less) smoothly, and with some certain CDs it doesn't have much problem playing. Other times the noises are worse and the CDP has trouble reading the disc, or cannot read at all.
I'm pretty sure this is a mechanic problem coming from the transport being ill-tuned or something is missing, but I'm not really a mechanic guy (I'm better with electronics) nor have much experience tinkering with CD transports, so I really need your help here.
Thanks a lot in advance!
Duong
I was given a B226S which is still running, however with very strange but regular noises from the transport, like the CD is spinning off-centered or something similar.
The issue severity varies from time to time, sometime the transport runs (more or less) smoothly, and with some certain CDs it doesn't have much problem playing. Other times the noises are worse and the CDP has trouble reading the disc, or cannot read at all.
I'm pretty sure this is a mechanic problem coming from the transport being ill-tuned or something is missing, but I'm not really a mechanic guy (I'm better with electronics) nor have much experience tinkering with CD transports, so I really need your help here.
Thanks a lot in advance!
Duong
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