The inductor in parallel with the woofer has some hard material like iron as it's "bobbin". The smaller inductor going to the tweeter has a plastic bobbin. View attachment 1143760View attachment 1143761View attachment 1143762View attachment 1143763
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When I went to the AK site and saw the same thing as here, I can't express how bad this lack of quality is to me. But I know that right away I would really want to put everything there on a separate board just to start with. It would make things a lot clearer for you to deal with. And certainly you could make better connections than those! As far as replacing the protection in the circuit I am pretty sure that someone before you blew it. Whether to replace it or not, I would say no. Unless you have tendency to play your music too loud or use them like some people use a PA system. A friend of mine figured out how to play his guitar through his Klipsch Lascala speakers. Yah, he blew the tweeter. Hmmm.
The automotive taillight 1076 is very close and available everywhere, including Walmart for cheap. Remember that an incandescent lamp is also a compression device because the resistance rises from very little cold to about 6 Ohms lit, and unlike a PolySwitch, it will not cause any distortion. Mounting a socket for a 1076 lamp would make replacement easy and be a warning of overloads.
The only thing I see to change is the squiggly resistor looking thing before the tweeter is the 4.7 capacitor instead.
So I thought about this literally all day yesterday and I think I even dreamt about it last night! Lol. I have REW, a umik1 and DATS. So having slept on it, I'm just going to rip it all out, learn how to use xsim and design my own xover from scratch. As if I needed another project. Haha! Wish me luck.
I think that is your best choice, and you will do fine. The sketch that you made will be a big help. There is only improvement to be had here.
Repost...
This thread from 2009 shows identical crossover photos...
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...looks-like-me-too-lets-find-out.271193/page-4
This thread from 2009 shows identical crossover photos...
https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...looks-like-me-too-lets-find-out.271193/page-4
Yah, Jim, my jaw kinda dropped when I saw that. "It really is true". Before, I had thought that this might have been a one off mistake of some sort. I have never seen anything like it from a bona-fide retailer or whatever. Your mind will be more at ease if nothing else once you have remade this right.
I would have 2 questions, the first one for the OP: why did the bulbs burned?
The second one for the experts: could the light bulb be replaced by a 2A good quality (just as an example, Bussmann?) fast-acting fuse?
It saved 2 times the tweeters of my loudspeakers during my attemps when I tried to replace the volume pot of an integrated amplifier with a Burr Brown PGA2310 board not knowing the board connections plans.
The second one for the experts: could the light bulb be replaced by a 2A good quality (just as an example, Bussmann?) fast-acting fuse?
It saved 2 times the tweeters of my loudspeakers during my attemps when I tried to replace the volume pot of an integrated amplifier with a Burr Brown PGA2310 board not knowing the board connections plans.
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The lightbulb probably died because the speaker was driven with enough power to cause it to have 12 volts or higher for a period of time. Couple that with the bulb being mounted to a speaker which tends to shake, which is no good for a bulb filament.
Usually the end user is going to choose a larger fuse if the existing one dies. Lighting the bulb causes a backing off of power and it will not need to be replaced.
Usually the end user is going to choose a larger fuse if the existing one dies. Lighting the bulb causes a backing off of power and it will not need to be replaced.
In my opinion this would be a bad practice since exceeding the rate current of fuse could be dangerous because no longer able to effectively protect the tweeter.
Interesting, thank you for your appreciated reply.
Thinking about the fact that the OP will rebuild the crossover (just like anyone after seeing it would do!) I would place a 1/4 x 1-1/4 (6.3mm x 32mm) fuse holder near the loudspeakers binding post with a 2A fast-acting inside so that it can easily replace it if it happens again to burn it (and it should not!).
IMO May be a simple and effective chance, which could even satisfy the psychological aspect of "how it sounds", at least for my way of thinking.