You like your missions, so it will cost appprox £350 with shipping to repair with these drivers not knowing how close it will match the original driver.
Juhazi's point/question is valid as we are not doing this by measurement and we don't have a a reference measurements or original driver specs etc.
Do you want to spend this kind of money? However, a similar amount may not get you a modern equivalent, but loudspeaker design moves on continually.
Just out of interest what is the failure mode of your drivers. Just no sound from the woofers maybe we could do some more investigation by looking at the crossover or an impedance check of the drivers. I guess its time for some dismantling when you get home.
Personally fixing things and not continuing down the planned obsolescence route and NOT taking them to the landfill appeals to me.
Juhazi's point/question is valid as we are not doing this by measurement and we don't have a a reference measurements or original driver specs etc.
Do you want to spend this kind of money? However, a similar amount may not get you a modern equivalent, but loudspeaker design moves on continually.
Just out of interest what is the failure mode of your drivers. Just no sound from the woofers maybe we could do some more investigation by looking at the crossover or an impedance check of the drivers. I guess its time for some dismantling when you get home.
Personally fixing things and not continuing down the planned obsolescence route and NOT taking them to the landfill appeals to me.
I have not heard them, but indeed seems the cone aerogel was a little updated for the good between the first Z0 serie and the late Z12.
Of course one has to check if for a swapping purpose: the impedance, magnitude, sensivity, close enough between two series !
For a refurbishing I 'd check that and of course new capacitors (not too expensive, it is not about spending more in caps than the genuine price of the loudspeakers cabinet pair)...
Not sure where you could find those specs you mentioned of original mid drivers, as it seems that only information is that sticker on back of driver. Gonna remove mid driver of my speakers today, most likely there is same kinf of sticker over there also.
Capacitor change sounds ok, but I do not have knowledge to replace them with proper ones..
Those drivers which I posted a link about, could be ordered from France for ~230eur including shipping. Yeah, it is still a big money for old speakers I know, but would such a waste to drive them to landfill, as cabinets are really nicely crafted and originally sound was very good. Need to remove driver today and check dimensions. Somehow I am not that interested about those chinese replacements..
Your original ones are labeled as 170 and so you might want to look at these Audaz Aerogels from TLHP in France. They seems to be the next size up from the HM130Z12s which i put in the 782s. They come up as 99 euros on their website but see below. and so not as expensive as the ones you found earleir (also 170s) - careful if ordering from the USA as there will possibly be big taxes to pay as well as shipping.
Personally I wouldn'y worry about capacitors and the like - i'd be tempted to drop in these drives and see what they sound like. If they are anything like the HM130Z12s you will be a very happy bunny!
I logged in to TLHP and popped 2 of these in my cart. There is a discount for 2 and they are coming up as less than 150 Euros for the pair!!! There will be 15-20 Euros to add for shipping but so what?. As I said, at this price I would just go for it and see what they sound like.
Personally I wouldn'y worry about capacitors and the like - i'd be tempted to drop in these drives and see what they sound like. If they are anything like the HM130Z12s you will be a very happy bunny!
I logged in to TLHP and popped 2 of these in my cart. There is a discount for 2 and they are coming up as less than 150 Euros for the pair!!! There will be 15-20 Euros to add for shipping but so what?. As I said, at this price I would just go for it and see what they sound like.
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Great news, but for some reason no discount for me....? Really would have ordered those for that price.
I did create an account and tried without logging in. But sent you PM, please check your inbox
I replaced my faulty Mission 783s with some Dali Oberon 5s but decided I'd also try to resurrect the 783s with the Audax HM130Z12.
I found the Dremel was ok, but i ended up doing a lot of the work with wood chisels. This was surprisingly easy and i only really needed the Dremel for the plastic surrounds in the end.
I chose the orintation of the drive units to give me a good location for the fixing screws and the plastic surround only needs amended at the sides. I also used a little self-adhesive weather stripping foam seal (1.6mm) around the edge of the surface of the cone frame that mates with the cabinet to ensure a good contact/seal. The grill fits perfectly and hides the modification anyways.
I'm very impressed with myself and very pleased with the final results. The sound is great and i'm super happy with them. I haven't done a back to back test with the Dali Oberons, but to my ears the Missions sound superior and the cabinet build quality of the Missions is unmatched.
I found the Dremel was ok, but i ended up doing a lot of the work with wood chisels. This was surprisingly easy and i only really needed the Dremel for the plastic surrounds in the end.
I chose the orintation of the drive units to give me a good location for the fixing screws and the plastic surround only needs amended at the sides. I also used a little self-adhesive weather stripping foam seal (1.6mm) around the edge of the surface of the cone frame that mates with the cabinet to ensure a good contact/seal. The grill fits perfectly and hides the modification anyways.
I'm very impressed with myself and very pleased with the final results. The sound is great and i'm super happy with them. I haven't done a back to back test with the Dali Oberons, but to my ears the Missions sound superior and the cabinet build quality of the Missions is unmatched.
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Been studying your pics as about to do the same-did you change the position of the top midrange fixing screw? they look to be in different positions