Not necessarily. A stepped attenuator or relay-based attenuator would be examples of mechanical volume controls that won't degrade anything. I've also never measured any degradation from an Alps RK271-series "Blue Velvet" pot aside from maybe 0.1-0.2 dB channel imbalance.
Tom
Tom
Nothing changes. Not only that as you are no longer limited on the size of the control, you can use a larger and higher quality unit.
I made one external remote volume control, the box also contains cathode followers primarily to drive a computer sound input, while working i also made a power-on sequencer controllong my tube amp(s)
Reuse of fm1 as remote volume et al.
Reuse of fm1 as remote volume et al.
I'm nervous of fiddling with the valve amp, but how to choose an inexpensive passive amp on ebay?
From my experience, keep these things in a separate box. I have two Millett engineer amps, one with a Broskie selector/attenuator in front of it. Guess which part started to scratch when switching, despite good quality components...
It was painfull to dismount it to use Deoxit and then let dry and remount. My next amps will be without any such parts. Pots, switches and motors should stay out of amps... ok that's my opinion and others will disagree.
In the process I discovered that the hex screws locking the selector buttons use 1/16" Allen keys.... boys, when will you stop using these weird norms and adopt metric size ??? In wood construction I can understand, but in mechanic thats plain dumb. 2nd lesson of the day: 1.5mm allen key destroy 1/16 screws...
Ok i should stop winning and enjoy X-Mas 😉
😉
It was painfull to dismount it to use Deoxit and then let dry and remount. My next amps will be without any such parts. Pots, switches and motors should stay out of amps... ok that's my opinion and others will disagree.
In the process I discovered that the hex screws locking the selector buttons use 1/16" Allen keys.... boys, when will you stop using these weird norms and adopt metric size ??? In wood construction I can understand, but in mechanic thats plain dumb. 2nd lesson of the day: 1.5mm allen key destroy 1/16 screws...
Ok i should stop winning and enjoy X-Mas 😉
😉
Thanks rfbrw, these are both nice products with their respective qualities. The Hattor are nice design, look at the side coolers 🙂
From the photo, it appears there is very limited room for anything other than a regular stereo volume control.
So, a motorized volume control, being much larger, would likely have to go into an external box.
So, a motorized volume control, being much larger, would likely have to go into an external box.
I had an exactly same problem. Most of DIY or valve amplifier does not have a remote volume control. Family on the couch (including me) is lazy 🙂 Every kit i found is somewhat out of my taste. So I built my own. RCA in and RCA out. Chose the remote I liked with not so many buttons and built something based on arduino platform. Implemented three extra toggling relay channels for like DAC (mine DAC Magic has no remote) or like LED strip lights.
Remote i chose and liked is inexpensive aluminum from AUNE. All cheap plastic ones i dont like. : https://www.aune-store.com/en/aune-remote-aluminium-for-flamingo_110303_1179/
And the board with studio grade ALPS Blue Beauty motorised potentiometer looks like this:
Will be working on an enclosure soon. Just the idea for apparently a common problem. Maybe should sell it on Esty 😀
Very long ago, LP record era, I worked for a guy (unmarried) who had a Thorens TD-125 deck with a Rabco arm, everything manual, and needed to be able to stop the noise at the end of the groove in times of romantic entanglement. He rigged a suitable length of plastic tubing such that he could give a quick puff at his end, and the air pressure at the turntable end pushed the power switch. Claimed it worked fine.
Makes me wonder if remote controls really need to be electronic and IR, etc. Concentric steel cables, maybe like those made for motorcycle controls, could be grafted onto the existing Volume knob, with another knob on the user end. Twisty slop can be overcome the same way motorcycle throttles do it, converting rotation into linear push-pull and back again.
Low tech but not low fi,
Chris
Makes me wonder if remote controls really need to be electronic and IR, etc. Concentric steel cables, maybe like those made for motorcycle controls, could be grafted onto the existing Volume knob, with another knob on the user end. Twisty slop can be overcome the same way motorcycle throttles do it, converting rotation into linear push-pull and back again.
Low tech but not low fi,
Chris
There are some examples of mechanical add-ons if you google. Here is one using an arduino ... Remote volume control for old amp
I would be glad to help You out I have been doing my own remotes for several years, I even program my own chips.
I even build my own handhelds.
Attachments
I've used a couple of these types that work reliably. One was added to a Yamaha C45 preamp and fitted in place of the standard one. The other is in my Noir headphone amp.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114917682436
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114917682436
My vote is for
https://www.academyaudio.com/vcx
I have used one of these in a DIY Pass Korg "B1K" with great success. Planning on adding another VCX to an Aikido 12AU7 preamp soon.
https://www.academyaudio.com/vcx
I have used one of these in a DIY Pass Korg "B1K" with great success. Planning on adding another VCX to an Aikido 12AU7 preamp soon.
This picture is the remote receiver pcb in brand antique sound lab.
The transistors in a bridge arrangement... control the motor of pot. This circuit is in the preamp aq2006 ..... commercial tube preamp made in China.
ic pt2249 in simple cicuit .
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