I have a valve amp (Acoustic Masterpiece) with, obviously, no remote control. I'm using the remote volume control of my network streamer (Marantz ND8006). This is not optimal because the variable output of the streamer is nowhere as good as the fixed output. I would dearly love a way of remote-controlling the volume of the amp so that I can switch to fixed output on the streamer.
I know this can be done with a stepper motor, control boards and code but I don't have the skills to put this together.
Does anyone know of a solution which doesn't need a lot of prior knowledge?
I know this can be done with a stepper motor, control boards and code but I don't have the skills to put this together.
Does anyone know of a solution which doesn't need a lot of prior knowledge?
Will this be powerful enough to drive the existing pot? I assume you mean to use this one to drive the existing, rather than replace it.
Sorry, I don't know exactly what you mean. It's a Acoustic Masterpiece, AM 201Hwhat is the reference of your amp?
thisSorry, I don't know exactly what you mean. It's a Acoustic Masterpiece, AM 201H
That's why I asked you for the exact model of your amp, to know which potentiometer is mounted on it.Will this be powerful enough to drive the existing pot? I assume you mean to use this one to drive the existing, rather than replace it.
Wow, is it really this simple?That's a complete motorized stereo 50k pot to replace your existing one.
Questions: will I find a 6 to 12 volt power supply in the amp?
Will the board create any electrical noise inside the amp casing? I fondly assume that audiophile kit is designed to minimise noise and more normal kit won't be. I am also ready to be told that's not the case, it's all the same...
The amp will have 6V or 12V heaters to the tubes. Another option is to use a small AC-DC converter.
The board won't likely emit any noise that the amp won't already have provisions to filter out. I've never used one so I can't say for sure. You should look inside the amp to make sure there's enough actual spade to fit it though.
The board won't likely emit any noise that the amp won't already have provisions to filter out. I've never used one so I can't say for sure. You should look inside the amp to make sure there's enough actual spade to fit it though.
Looks like this may be a project, then. I'll open up the amp and see what the space looks like, if all OK, order the pot and then probably come back to ask a few more specific questions, if I may.
Thanks, guys 🙂
Thanks, guys 🙂
Khozmo in Spain has some nice options: https://khozmo.com/
They're not cheap but they seem to be good quality.
Another option could be to build an fixed attenuator of, say, 20 or 40 dB so you can use the digital control on the streamer without accidentally blowing your speakers.
Tom
They're not cheap but they seem to be good quality.
Another option could be to build an fixed attenuator of, say, 20 or 40 dB so you can use the digital control on the streamer without accidentally blowing your speakers.
Tom
@huggygood, it's great to have the photo, thank you. Where does the infrared LED fit? Do you have to drill the front panel?
If you don't use the headphone jack, you can pass the diode through it and leave it just flush with the front.
no drilling, no massacre.
no drilling, no massacre.
I don't know your level of expertise in electronics and technology but I must remind you that electricity kills and that it is essential to unplug your amp several hours before putting your hands in it (especially when you see where it is locate the potentiometer).
Don't let your little finger drag, avoid rings on your fingers and stay focused so as not to hurt yourself.
Don't let your little finger drag, avoid rings on your fingers and stay focused so as not to hurt yourself.
I would just build a stand alone remote controlled attenuator in a small plastic box.
Plastic boxes can have the holes made with a soldering iron.
The last stand alone volume control I made was for a radio executive. I did use a motor controlled volume control. There was a small timer circuit included to turn the volume all the way down about once a day.
Really worked wonders once a few of his coworkers mentioned they thought they had seen someone in his office at night, but when they looked closer there was no one there.
Haunted office!
Plastic boxes can have the holes made with a soldering iron.
The last stand alone volume control I made was for a radio executive. I did use a motor controlled volume control. There was a small timer circuit included to turn the volume all the way down about once a day.
Really worked wonders once a few of his coworkers mentioned they thought they had seen someone in his office at night, but when they looked closer there was no one there.
Haunted office!
Not very experienced and it is a very good about the potential capacitance, thank you.I don't know your level of expertise in electronics and technology but I must remind you that electricity kills and that it is essential to unplug your amp several hours before putting your hands in it (especially when you see where it is locate the potentiometer).
Don't let your little finger drag, avoid rings on your fingers and stay focused so as not to hurt yourself.
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