Hi,
There will be the following options for volume control:
1) Discrete Up/Down Pushbuttons
2) Rotary encoder (mechanical or optical) (2 bit gray code)
3) Buttons on LCD
4) Potentiometer
5) Remote
Hopefully, this satisfies everyone 🙂
There is nothing wrong with the Bent audio remote. Ours adds support for input selection, direct mute, and a HT bypass mode.
Please feel free to make suggestions. We would actually appreciate all the input that we can get. We may not support everyones needs, but we want this to be as flexible as possible at a very attractive DIY price.
Best Regards,
Dale
There will be the following options for volume control:
1) Discrete Up/Down Pushbuttons
2) Rotary encoder (mechanical or optical) (2 bit gray code)
3) Buttons on LCD
4) Potentiometer
5) Remote
Hopefully, this satisfies everyone 🙂
There is nothing wrong with the Bent audio remote. Ours adds support for input selection, direct mute, and a HT bypass mode.
Please feel free to make suggestions. We would actually appreciate all the input that we can get. We may not support everyones needs, but we want this to be as flexible as possible at a very attractive DIY price.
Best Regards,
Dale
Dale,
A few thoughts, how about
a) Shorting inactive inputs to ground
b) Spacing the outputs from inputs
c) A symetric layout to reduce crosstalk
If you opt for remote control will manual input selection and volume control be available at the same time?
Looks like a great project.
Regards,
Jam
A few thoughts, how about
a) Shorting inactive inputs to ground
b) Spacing the outputs from inputs
c) A symetric layout to reduce crosstalk
If you opt for remote control will manual input selection and volume control be available at the same time?
Looks like a great project.
Regards,
Jam
Hi Jam,
All very good ideas.
We have tried to make the layout with concerns for crosstalk.
Shorting inputs would add relays (I think). We are already using DPDT.
There is support to have a buffer in between the input and volume section. For an output buffer, one would just not use the PCB mounts for the outputs and route the outputs to the buffer than to the connections. Do you want a breadboard area?
The front panel interface will work with or without the remote. Infact, in the software, the front panel buttons "spoof" IR commands. I do believe that the rotary encoder will be the FP volume control of choice.
Best Regards,
Dale
P.S. Keep the suggestions coming...
All very good ideas.
We have tried to make the layout with concerns for crosstalk.
Shorting inputs would add relays (I think). We are already using DPDT.
There is support to have a buffer in between the input and volume section. For an output buffer, one would just not use the PCB mounts for the outputs and route the outputs to the buffer than to the connections. Do you want a breadboard area?
The front panel interface will work with or without the remote. Infact, in the software, the front panel buttons "spoof" IR commands. I do believe that the rotary encoder will be the FP volume control of choice.
Best Regards,
Dale
P.S. Keep the suggestions coming...
Shorting un-used inputs...
Will this not also 1) short the (common?) output of selected source, and 2) load the outputs from your sorces?
Will use direct push-button for input selector, one for each input.
Rotating or up/down switches are a pain for A/B testing...
Arne K
Will this not also 1) short the (common?) output of selected source, and 2) load the outputs from your sorces?
Will use direct push-button for input selector, one for each input.
Rotating or up/down switches are a pain for A/B testing...
Arne K
Arne,
We will have to look into whether or not shorting the inputs is doable.
For input selection, on the remote, one will be able to directly switch between two input channels by pressing the channel number.
On the front panel, there will only be one button for input.
With the LCD interface, we could implement a swap mode where one could swap between two selected channels.
Dale
We will have to look into whether or not shorting the inputs is doable.
For input selection, on the remote, one will be able to directly switch between two input channels by pressing the channel number.
On the front panel, there will only be one button for input.
With the LCD interface, we could implement a swap mode where one could swap between two selected channels.
Dale
Dale,
I think shorting inactive inputs is important because of bleed-thru from other sources.
Another thought would be phase invert which could be acomplished with another two relays. ( could be an option)
Regards,
Jam
I think shorting inactive inputs is important because of bleed-thru from other sources.
Another thought would be phase invert which could be acomplished with another two relays. ( could be an option)
Regards,
Jam
Dale,
I think shorting unused inputs is easy to accomplish. Just reverse the direction of the switch (relay).
Regards,
Jam
I think shorting unused inputs is easy to accomplish. Just reverse the direction of the switch (relay).
Regards,
Jam
Hi Jam,
Call me dense 😕, but I don't understand.
We have n DPDT relays for n inputs (one channel of differential)
The contacts (wipers) are all connected together.
On the pole side, one pole is connected to the signal (+ or -),
The second pole is left open. (like DPST)
We cannot connect anything to the other side. Am I missing something?
Can you draw me a diagram?
Thanks,
Dale
Call me dense 😕, but I don't understand.
We have n DPDT relays for n inputs (one channel of differential)
The contacts (wipers) are all connected together.
On the pole side, one pole is connected to the signal (+ or -),
The second pole is left open. (like DPST)
We cannot connect anything to the other side. Am I missing something?
Can you draw me a diagram?
Thanks,
Dale
Dale,
Connect the wipers to the + and - of the XLR's. On the other two contacts of the relay of the + side, one is connected to ground and the other to the signal bus which goes to the volume control.
Repeat this for the - side as well.
I hopes this makes this clear or maybe I am missing something.
Regards,
Jam
Connect the wipers to the + and - of the XLR's. On the other two contacts of the relay of the + side, one is connected to ground and the other to the signal bus which goes to the volume control.
Repeat this for the - side as well.
I hopes this makes this clear or maybe I am missing something.
Regards,
Jam
Jam,
Doesn't this actually short the input? Can most sources handle a short? How about a high impedence resistor to ground?
Dale
Doesn't this actually short the input? Can most sources handle a short? How about a high impedence resistor to ground?
Dale
Dale,
Yes it shorts the input, but most equipment like cd players have muting circuits that short their outputs.
Most modern sources don't mind their outputs being shorted I can't think of any that would have a problem.
The idea is to prevent any noise or unwanted signals getting into the preamp. A resistor would work to the degree of attenuating the noise but not eliminating it. ( Maybe an optinon for a resistor or a piece of wire?)
Regards,
Jam
Yes it shorts the input, but most equipment like cd players have muting circuits that short their outputs.
Most modern sources don't mind their outputs being shorted I can't think of any that would have a problem.
The idea is to prevent any noise or unwanted signals getting into the preamp. A resistor would work to the degree of attenuating the noise but not eliminating it. ( Maybe an optinon for a resistor or a piece of wire?)
Regards,
Jam
Ok 
,
I guess that I thought there was something else you had in mind. I would have no problem switching the relays around (for the ladder version) and adding a "resistor" to ground. One could leave out, add a shorting wire, or any resistor.
For the P1 version, we would change if there is another reason to modify the prototype board.
Thanks for the suggestion and sorry for the mis-understanding (actually I just didn't realize that one could short the outputs)
Best Regards,
Dale
,I guess that I thought there was something else you had in mind. I would have no problem switching the relays around (for the ladder version) and adding a "resistor" to ground. One could leave out, add a shorting wire, or any resistor.
For the P1 version, we would change if there is another reason to modify the prototype board.
Thanks for the suggestion and sorry for the mis-understanding (actually I just didn't realize that one could short the outputs)
Best Regards,
Dale
The Ultimare Integrated Amplifier!
Dale,
Just think, we could put your volume control in a box with a couple of Chad's Aleph-X boards...............and we have a awesome integrated amplifier (with remote).
Just an idea,
Regards,
Jam
Dale,
Just think, we could put your volume control in a box with a couple of Chad's Aleph-X boards...............and we have a awesome integrated amplifier (with remote).
Just an idea,
Regards,
Jam
Does the AlephX need more gain? Or can one get away with a passive volume control?
For testing, I am planning on wiring in my BOSOZ to an Aleph2.
Prototype boards should ship tomorrow. I got both the Sony and RC5 decoding working (in fact it senses which one is being used).
Best Regards,
Dale
For testing, I am planning on wiring in my BOSOZ to an Aleph2.
Prototype boards should ship tomorrow. I got both the Sony and RC5 decoding working (in fact it senses which one is being used).
Best Regards,
Dale
Good Work!
Dale,
It should have enough gain but if you need more you could adjust the feedback ratios.
You must have put a lot of work into this project, keep it up and thanks, I am sure you will get a good response from the other members of this forum.
Regards,
Jam
Dale,
It should have enough gain but if you need more you could adjust the feedback ratios.
You must have put a lot of work into this project, keep it up and thanks, I am sure you will get a good response from the other members of this forum.
Regards,
Jam
APOX-1 volume control
Hi everyone, I'm Craig, Dale's partner in this Remote Volume control extravaganza. We've been compiling all of your suggestions and I put the stepped ladder relay board on hold to incorporate all of your good ideas. (The new layout is almost done so please be patient.)
The new features are as follows:
There are now 8 differential input selections. (I know this is overkill, but some people insisted, and you don't have to load the extra relays if they are not needed) But you'd also be kicking yourself, if you decided to add another piece of equipment to your system, and didn't have enough inputs.
There are 8 XLR connectors directly on the board for the
first 4 differential inputs. The other 8 connectors are implemented
as 5.08mm connectors that people could hardwire to an upper row of additional connectors.
I also added another set of output connectors (L and R) internal to the board, so once again, people can hard wire an upper level if needed.
After some painful modification, I have turned around the relays on the input select lines. The second pole now has a resistor to GND to either short the inputs to ground(using a jumper) or load them down (with a resistor) or let it float(your choice).
Dale is pretty far along on the software, and we have most of the parts for the first prototype in.
I'm getting excited for the first prototype build. It should look pretty awesome with the Blue LCD display.
I must get back to the board layout now.
Thanks for your great suggestions,
Craig Beiferman
Hi everyone, I'm Craig, Dale's partner in this Remote Volume control extravaganza. We've been compiling all of your suggestions and I put the stepped ladder relay board on hold to incorporate all of your good ideas. (The new layout is almost done so please be patient.)
The new features are as follows:
There are now 8 differential input selections. (I know this is overkill, but some people insisted, and you don't have to load the extra relays if they are not needed) But you'd also be kicking yourself, if you decided to add another piece of equipment to your system, and didn't have enough inputs.
There are 8 XLR connectors directly on the board for the
first 4 differential inputs. The other 8 connectors are implemented
as 5.08mm connectors that people could hardwire to an upper row of additional connectors.
I also added another set of output connectors (L and R) internal to the board, so once again, people can hard wire an upper level if needed.
After some painful modification, I have turned around the relays on the input select lines. The second pole now has a resistor to GND to either short the inputs to ground(using a jumper) or load them down (with a resistor) or let it float(your choice).
Dale is pretty far along on the software, and we have most of the parts for the first prototype in.
I'm getting excited for the first prototype build. It should look pretty awesome with the Blue LCD display.
I must get back to the board layout now.Thanks for your great suggestions,
Craig Beiferman
Hmmmm,
I will have to check with the moderators on this. Remember that I will be taking some profit (not much) on these kits. I want to be able to offer this kit at a great price and the best way (cuz I don't have unlimited funds) is to buy in bulk. I think that 20-30 kits would make all the difference.
Of course, the more, the better the pricing. As an example, if we buy ten PCB's, the cost is $30 per board. 50 lowers it to < 10.00 ea. For some of the relays, the single quantity price is $2.22. If I buy 500, the price drops to 1.50 (not huge, but you need a lot of them)
etc...
Perhaps Peter will chime in with some moderator opinions.
Dale
I will have to check with the moderators on this. Remember that I will be taking some profit (not much) on these kits. I want to be able to offer this kit at a great price and the best way (cuz I don't have unlimited funds) is to buy in bulk. I think that 20-30 kits would make all the difference.
Of course, the more, the better the pricing. As an example, if we buy ten PCB's, the cost is $30 per board. 50 lowers it to < 10.00 ea. For some of the relays, the single quantity price is $2.22. If I buy 500, the price drops to 1.50 (not huge, but you need a lot of them)
etc...
Perhaps Peter will chime in with some moderator opinions.
Dale
Direct selection by remote
- works great for me. 😉
Really looking forward to this one, with blue display, and all...
Next thing will be to source a (programmable?) remote hand-set...
Arne K
NORWAY
- works great for me. 😉
Really looking forward to this one, with blue display, and all...
Next thing will be to source a (programmable?) remote hand-set...
Arne K
NORWAY
May I strongly suggest
This is great!
However, I would suggest that the relay setup is changed from shorting each line to ground to shorting each line to each other. I have attached a schematic to indicate what I mean.
Also, have you considered using delay or other option to ensure that the lower bit relays do not "chatter"? My suggestion is to have .5 to 1 second or thereabouts delay on the lowest 4 or so bits, perhaps half that on the next 2
Also, have you considered putting diodes on the boards to accommodate relays that do not have these built-in (to sink the inductive energy at shitchoff)?
Also, may I suggest that the relays are set up in passive shorthing mode so that if power is lost, volume is set to zero by action of attenuation.
Also, may I suggest that you add 1-2 serial relays to set up potential for better sound at all levels. As it is, most volume controls sound worse the lower the volume setting. This can be fixed by allowing for a change of series load resistance.
Petter
This is great!
However, I would suggest that the relay setup is changed from shorting each line to ground to shorting each line to each other. I have attached a schematic to indicate what I mean.
Also, have you considered using delay or other option to ensure that the lower bit relays do not "chatter"? My suggestion is to have .5 to 1 second or thereabouts delay on the lowest 4 or so bits, perhaps half that on the next 2
Also, have you considered putting diodes on the boards to accommodate relays that do not have these built-in (to sink the inductive energy at shitchoff)?
Also, may I suggest that the relays are set up in passive shorthing mode so that if power is lost, volume is set to zero by action of attenuation.
Also, may I suggest that you add 1-2 serial relays to set up potential for better sound at all levels. As it is, most volume controls sound worse the lower the volume setting. This can be fixed by allowing for a change of series load resistance.
Petter
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