I'm tired of waiting for an answer, no answer my mail, no answer here, Mikkel you're a seller unreliable and unserious. I am disgusted by your behavior.
Thanks for everything, throw in the trash your volume control.
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P7,
You have been patient long enough, if Mikkel's work keeps him this busy, then he should not be "offering" kits for sale without the support in a reasonable time frame.
Hell, Papa answers questions frequently and his (First Watt) designs are FREE!
Be happy my friend.
Ron
I have always had good luck with Mikkel’s kits and he has always responded to my emails in a timely fashion. I hope everything is alright with him.
I hope everything is alright with him.
The same me, because M. Simonsen have to refund me 50 EU from an uncompleted order three months ago. That is, he owe me 50 EU.
Fotios
Good luck!! I'm still waiting for a simply reply, but I'm not a lucky guy 🙁
Piero
Place an order at Dantimax for a cheap part, and pay via PayPal. Then, you will have in 12 hours as much, reply from M. Simonsen. Unless, M. Simonsen has gone...
Fotios
He send me and a friend our kits last week. Sometimes a little slow in his response (especially the last few weeks). But he always did respond. Still waiting on response on a mail I send last week though. Guess he's quite busy at the moment.
I have open a dispute in PayPal against M. Simonsen, but due to expired time of 45 days, PayPal has no possibility to do something. OTOH in our private contacts (M. Simonsen he does not knows nothing about this) PayPal recognized my own rights. To this, PayPal has registered in its black list M. Simonsen for six months (up to the end of July). That means, if any other person open a dispute against M. Simonsen, then and my dispute will be open again and M. Simonsen will be found in a very difficult place.
Fotios
Fotios
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He send me and a friend our kits last week. Sometimes a little slow in his response (especially the last few weeks). But he always did respond. Still waiting on response on a mail I send last week though. Guess he's quite busy at the moment.
So, M. Simonsen is alive but only for getting money. So, i was right.
LCD resistor, Blue LCD
Since Mikkel is not responding to email at the moment, I'll post my question here:
Mikkel or anybody else:
I'm almost finished building the kits. But for the connecton of the LCD to the Control2 board, I need to place an LCD resistor (R2). The manual states the resistor should be supplied with the PCB. This however isn't the case.
I'm using the blue LCD. Does anybody now which value resistor to use? (Is this the mentioned 18R or something else?)
Thanks for the help,
Maarten
Since Mikkel is not responding to email at the moment, I'll post my question here:
Mikkel or anybody else:
I'm almost finished building the kits. But for the connecton of the LCD to the Control2 board, I need to place an LCD resistor (R2). The manual states the resistor should be supplied with the PCB. This however isn't the case.
I'm using the blue LCD. Does anybody now which value resistor to use? (Is this the mentioned 18R or something else?)
Thanks for the help,
Maarten
Since Mikkel is not responding to email at the moment, I'll post my question here:
Mikkel or anybody else:
I'm almost finished building the kits. But for the connecton of the LCD to the Control2 board, I need to place an LCD resistor (R2). The manual states the resistor should be supplied with the PCB. This however isn't the case.
I'm using the blue LCD. Does anybody now which value resistor to use? (Is this the mentioned 18R or something else?)
Thanks for the help,
Maarten
If this resistor is for feeding the backlight LED (blue) and the supply voltage is 5V, then you may use a resistor of 100-120 Ohms to be safe. That is the value that i use in my projects... not related with Dantimax projects.
I'm not sure if it is the backlight resistor. I would have to check the schematic for that. The manual does state that the resistor usually is 18 ohms. But want to make sure before i blow up the LCD...
I'm not sure if it is the backlight resistor. I would have to check the schematic for that. The manual does state that the resistor usually is 18 ohms. But want to make sure before i blow up the LCD...
Be careful, because the backlight LED can be fried very easy.
I would use a trimmer instead. Set it to max resistance then gradually adjust it until the back-light reaches the desired brightness. Then remove the trimmer and measure it, replace with a fixed resistor of the closest value available 🙂
Mikkel Simmonsen must be a "foxy" guy!
I am sure - and you can be sure - that mr. Mikkel Simmonsen is looking in this HIS OWN THREAD continiously with other user name... to be hidden from his dissappointed customers.
Do you know what is a customer? He is a person which paid with CASH a vendor.
Where are the 50 euros that you owe me mr. Simmonsen 4 months ago?
And you may don't forget PayPal
I am sure - and you can be sure - that mr. Mikkel Simmonsen is looking in this HIS OWN THREAD continiously with other user name... to be hidden from his dissappointed customers.
Do you know what is a customer? He is a person which paid with CASH a vendor.
Where are the 50 euros that you owe me mr. Simmonsen 4 months ago?
And you may don't forget PayPal
I am sure - and you can be sure - that mr. Mikkel Simmonsen is looking in this HIS OWN THREAD continiously with other user name... to be hidden from his dissappointed customers.
No, I actually don't - I have not had time. I receive an e-mail notification from diyAudio occasionally, so I looked today.
I try to keep up with my e-mail, but I don't get here very often.
Where are the 50 euros that you owe me mr. Simmonsen 4 months ago?
And you may don't forget PayPal
As far as I know I don't owe you anything - if you think I do, send me an e-mail. Your PayPal case was closed because there was no case.
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
The displays I supply (RGB type excluded), have series resistors installed on the display itself, so you can make the resistor on the control board as small as you want. Without a small resistor the backlight will often bee too bright.I'm not sure if it is the backlight resistor. I would have to check the schematic for that. The manual does state that the resistor usually is 18 ohms. But want to make sure before i blow up the LCD...
Best regards,
Mikkel C. Simonsen
I need a remote controlled "passive preamp" to control my active speakers. I'm thinking of ordering the dantimax Remote3. But I'm a bit of a Noob here, so can someone help me with what are all of the parts I need to order.
So:
-Rem3Kit
-G115ME Aluminium box
-RK27M Motorpot, but which one 10k, 50k or 100k? Whats the difference here?
-SRU1010 remote control
-9VDC/1A Euro power supply
Do I need something else, are the knobs and what not included? And is the input selection also remote controlled or only the volume?
Thanks for the help!
So:
-Rem3Kit
-G115ME Aluminium box
-RK27M Motorpot, but which one 10k, 50k or 100k? Whats the difference here?
-SRU1010 remote control
-9VDC/1A Euro power supply
Do I need something else, are the knobs and what not included? And is the input selection also remote controlled or only the volume?
Thanks for the help!
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