Please Help Me, My Board no soundi use 12v dc dual + raspberry pi 3 i2s with moodeaudio. signal is lock but still no sound
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Check your negative supply to make sure it's not wired backwards. Should be + - + -. The center 2 pins on the power input are common ground.
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OK, looks like I would be more interested in a dam1021 build. I would prefer to just turn a knob to set the input to be used.
Can you elaborate as to what that means for a Moode or Volumio user?
I run the RPi3 headless, no mouse/keyboard/monitor, I access the Moode GUI for settings and the like using any web browser on that same LAN.
So how would I select the USB input of the DAM1231, I don't know what you mean when you say control over the RPi's serial port.
Can you elaborate as to what that means for a Moode or Volumio user?
I run the RPi3 headless, no mouse/keyboard/monitor, I access the Moode GUI for settings and the like using any web browser on that same LAN.
So how would I select the USB input of the DAM1231, I don't know what you mean when you say control over the RPi's serial port.
+1
I do the same thing.
Can you elaborate as to what that means for a Moode or Volumio user?
I run the RPi3 headless, no mouse/keyboard/monitor, I access the Moode GUI for settings and the like using any web browser on that same LAN.
So how would I select the USB input of the DAM1231, I don't know what you mean when you say control over the RPi's serial port.
Just like a dam1021, everything on a dam1231 can be controlled with short ascii control code over the serial port. Somebody are then supposed to write a small driver so the RPi software can control the dam1231 directly.
The reason for that is the custom cases available now from t.ex. Audiophonics do not have any knobs, just a display if anything. As the dam1231 is 24 bit audio in you can use software volume with good results, volume control using the serial port have higher resolution, but, the dam1231 will also have support for a encoder to control the volume, and if the RPi driver read the codes over the serial port, it will be nicely integrated so both can be used.
The dam1231 will have 4 audio input ports:
1sr I2S directly from the RPi 40 pins header.
2nd I2S on 7 pins header, pinout to match others t.ex. Odroid C2.
SPDIF RCA with isolation transformer.
SPDIF Toslink, isolated per definition.
The dam1231 will auto detect between the ports, can also be selected over the serial port.
The dam1231 do not have isolation on the I2S ports, the idea is the RPi is not that noisy and the ethernet port is isolated. If using USB to I2S interface it should have isolation.
The dam1231 can also be used stand alone, don't need a RPi to run....
Thank you! Multiple inputs have been on my wish list but it's never been pressing enough to make a fuzz about.
When you say support for a encoder, are we talking rotary encoder instead of a pot? If so, that's also been on my wish list since it'll make it soo much easier to implement a remote control.
If there is an easy way to add a display as well (either from the Pi or the dam) this is probably as close to perfect as I've ever seen.
One small wish though... it would be totally awesome if you could add a proper point to extract the RAW audio on the production run.
And moving into pure indulgent territory, including a discrete single end to balanced out for the RAW audio would complete any wish list I could come up with. I would never ask for this in any serious manner, but if you're tinkering around and considering adding some final touches...
(Call me a stick in the mud but I don't trust OP-amps and try to avoid them when possible. )
I don't want to appear greedy, it already sounds super as is. Any wishes are just humble ideas if you feel like adding something more to the goody bag. No expectations from my side...
When you say support for a encoder, are we talking rotary encoder instead of a pot? If so, that's also been on my wish list since it'll make it soo much easier to implement a remote control.
If there is an easy way to add a display as well (either from the Pi or the dam) this is probably as close to perfect as I've ever seen.
One small wish though... it would be totally awesome if you could add a proper point to extract the RAW audio on the production run.
And moving into pure indulgent territory, including a discrete single end to balanced out for the RAW audio would complete any wish list I could come up with. I would never ask for this in any serious manner, but if you're tinkering around and considering adding some final touches...
(Call me a stick in the mud but I don't trust OP-amps and try to avoid them when possible. )
I don't want to appear greedy, it already sounds super as is. Any wishes are just humble ideas if you feel like adding something more to the goody bag. No expectations from my side...
My soekris is finish....
One nanoDigi for crossovering, one input selector and the three DAC for output.
I use six LL1539 for balanced output.
Upgraded the 16 electrolytic on the bottom face with 1500µF per piece in the three boards.
Best Regards for the creator of this DAC.
Best Regards for all the gentlemen
One nanoDigi for crossovering, one input selector and the three DAC for output.
I use six LL1539 for balanced output.
Upgraded the 16 electrolytic on the bottom face with 1500µF per piece in the three boards.
Best Regards for the creator of this DAC.
Best Regards for all the gentlemen
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Pretty awesome, its amazing what people are coming up with the dam1021.
I'd love to try an active crossover setup myself someday though I'd have to cough up the extra for another set of nc400's not to mention more dam1021's.
Hi friend, for the input I connect the selector that has four input, all via transformer, one EBU, two coax and one toslink. The selector has on exit, that I connect to the coax of the nanoDigi. The nanoDigi has four out but one is without use.
For amplifier i use a J2 crossovered at 100Hz (42dB) the other amplifier is a Yamaha A700 AB I use for bass.
They are driving a OB with two 18 inches new woofer with high QT, in WMW and for mids I use a Feastrex 9 inches Electrodynamic.
I am making more projects in amplifiers and the OB has removable panels for change different configurations. But is useful the nanoDigi with OB for check several choices.
The good new is put the whole IN-OUT connections in the front faceplate for diy. For the next all my projects will have the same configuration, in the rear face only the supply connection. High nerdly type at all
Thanks for your words gentlemen
T
Now that crossovers are being mentioned I'd like to toss something into the mix. For myself cost is always a major constraint and it's forced me to look at unconventional solutions at times. In hindsight it's actually been a good thing even though it didn't feel that way at the time.
So, how do you build a high end full range active system on a budget? I like to adhere to Einstein's concept of making it as simple as possible but not any more simple than that.
2-way speakers make for easy passive crossovers. You only need one amp, one dac and one dsp. By reading up on basic physics you can work magic with the speakers using cheap materials and unorthodox thinking. My lack of funds really forced me to go the exact opposite way compared to dady. I've listened to some of the most prestigious systems around, cost no object and I can honestly say that the only reason for me to trade my rig in for something expensive would be to get something that looked expensive. (My rig certainly doesn't look expensive) I'm sure that many of us have a love affair with the things we build.
Now, why am I going on a rant about this? It's to celebrate the diversity of DIY hifi. There is no single route to hifi nirvana, we can all experiment and have fun finding our own unique way. And regardless how we fare ourselves, we can still appreciate the personal touch of other enthusiasts builds.
Awesome build dady! You've done what I wish I could do, I hope it sounds as good as you hoped it would.
So, how do you build a high end full range active system on a budget? I like to adhere to Einstein's concept of making it as simple as possible but not any more simple than that.
2-way speakers make for easy passive crossovers. You only need one amp, one dac and one dsp. By reading up on basic physics you can work magic with the speakers using cheap materials and unorthodox thinking. My lack of funds really forced me to go the exact opposite way compared to dady. I've listened to some of the most prestigious systems around, cost no object and I can honestly say that the only reason for me to trade my rig in for something expensive would be to get something that looked expensive. (My rig certainly doesn't look expensive) I'm sure that many of us have a love affair with the things we build.
Now, why am I going on a rant about this? It's to celebrate the diversity of DIY hifi. There is no single route to hifi nirvana, we can all experiment and have fun finding our own unique way. And regardless how we fare ourselves, we can still appreciate the personal touch of other enthusiasts builds.
Awesome build dady! You've done what I wish I could do, I hope it sounds as good as you hoped it would.
Dear Mark, BTW, I was listening in Fullrange back loaded horn, lowther EX4 since 2005, with several amplifiers in all the scale, All depend of the kind of music you listen. Jazz, chamber is ok, incredible presence and reality but when you biamp or more... three.. etc you feel and control the sound in a real way. Now I am tunning the system. I like to listen all my equipment, and with two amps, I feeling much more deepness at all. Bruckner or Prokofiev, Mahler or any music is amazing and this is the beginning.
Best regards and thanks for your words, and the real think is the Soekris design. Is a monster of ideas.
The best for him.
Best regards and thanks for your words, and the real think is the Soekris design. Is a monster of ideas.
The best for him.
Indeed, in the end it's all about personal taste and preferences. I can't help smiling when I read the examples you list. Classical music is about the only thing I haven't experimented with on my current rig. Right now I'm listening to VNV Nation... but yes, I would probably describe it much in the same way. It feels real, it has depth, control and a great overall presence. I can't wait to get my hands on a dam, to see what that can bring to the table.
I have to dig out my old copy of the 1912 overture soon...
Sorry for going OT but it's really neat to see how this dac inspires people.
I have to dig out my old copy of the 1912 overture soon...
Sorry for going OT but it's really neat to see how this dac inspires people.
Already done: This library works perfectly fine on RPi connected to a dam1021. I can't imagine why it wouldn't work on the dam1231 (at worst, maybe a bit of tweaking).
Furthermore, I found some interesting software, synchronator which allows you to "bridge" software controls to hardware devices. For my particular application, I'm using MPD running on RPi, connected to a balanced dual mono pair of dam1021s. I wanted to be able to use the volume control of MPD clients, but not actually do a software volume control, but rather just pass the volume control commands from MPD to the dam1021 via serial.
The synchronator tool I linked should be able to do that. But I also implemented a simplistic version of the core synchronator functionality, and described it in this post, "Real output device + dummy mixer", on the Archphile forums.
Esteban, that looks great, thanks for posting.
Just curious what power supply you're using for your dam1021 boards? I'm assuming it's one PSU connecting all three dam1021s in parallel? Or maybe there's three discrete power supplies crammed in there?
Nice work！But I don't think the raw can drive LL1539,Maybe use some op-amp to drive 1539 is more suitable.I've tested frequency response curve, driven by the op-amp circuit，the low frequency is better, more smooth.
Sœren > I have a somewhat important question about the 1231. I've been looking at the dimensions and trying to figure out the orientation in regards to the Pi. Looking at the Pi, the HDMI out is located on the opposite side to the GPIO. The dam_1231 appears to be 26.3mm wider than the RPi3. This seems to indicate that the HDMI jack will not be usable from the outside?
And the GPIO header/jack, is it located on the component side or the flip side? Do you flip the dam upside down to mount it on the Pi?
Not having the HDMI accessible from the outside kind of make a mess of fitting it a case/chassis. :/
AFAIK most every RPi case is designed to have both the HDMI side and USB side accessible from the outside?
This will be a non issue for people with regular hifi chassis but it'll pretty much rule out using any RPi specific chassis?
Am I missing something?
And the GPIO header/jack, is it located on the component side or the flip side? Do you flip the dam upside down to mount it on the Pi?
Not having the HDMI accessible from the outside kind of make a mess of fitting it a case/chassis. :/
AFAIK most every RPi case is designed to have both the HDMI side and USB side accessible from the outside?
This will be a non issue for people with regular hifi chassis but it'll pretty much rule out using any RPi specific chassis?
Am I missing something?
The dam1231 is bigger than a RPi and will not fit the really small cases, only the larger ones. The boards are supposed to have the connectors needed for a Audio player accessible from the outside, meaning the Ethernet, USB and RCA connectors, please look at the RPi Audio cases available at t.ex. http://www.audiophonics.fr/en/cases-for-raspberry-pi-and-other-sbc-c-6318.html