Agreed with rayma. I normally stick with Molex or TE (AMP) myself.
For crimping open barrel terminals for smaller instrumentation/audio stuff, I currently use an Iwiss IWS-1442L which is like a ratcheting knockoff of the Hozan P707. Since the latter is only a little bit more expensive and has better-machined dies, may as well opt for the Hozan if picking between the two...
For crimping open barrel terminals for smaller instrumentation/audio stuff, I currently use an Iwiss IWS-1442L which is like a ratcheting knockoff of the Hozan P707. Since the latter is only a little bit more expensive and has better-machined dies, may as well opt for the Hozan if picking between the two...
Here is what I have found online. These two are the cheapest in-stock Molex connectors at Digikey that seem to fit my needs.
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I already purchased this from Amazon. It could still be easily returned if it is not right for this job.
https://www.amazon.com/Preciva-Self...ratcheting+crimper&qid=1636396160&s=hi&sr=1-7
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I already purchased this from Amazon. It could still be easily returned if it is not right for this job.
https://www.amazon.com/Preciva-Self...ratcheting+crimper&qid=1636396160&s=hi&sr=1-7
The crimper is for open-barrel connectors, while those Molex connectors are insulated closed-barrel (not the same).
It only looks like the crimper does insulated because its kit comes with insulating sleeves, but I think what's going on there is that you slide the sleeves onto the wire, crimp the open-barrel connectors, and then pull the sleeves into position over the connectors.
It only looks like the crimper does insulated because its kit comes with insulating sleeves, but I think what's going on there is that you slide the sleeves onto the wire, crimp the open-barrel connectors, and then pull the sleeves into position over the connectors.
This looks like a good quality crimping tool for a very reasonable price. Only $28 at Home Depot and they have them in stock at your local store.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-3005CR/306884697
I would suggest buying the crimp type terminals separately from a good source and not buying a package deal that includes lots of cheap terminals with a tool.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-3005CR/306884697
I would suggest buying the crimp type terminals separately from a good source and not buying a package deal that includes lots of cheap terminals with a tool.
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The tool you linked to is probably just fine. It crimps open-barrel connectors ("F crimps" - not related to F connectors), not insulated closed-barrel.
You really can't figure out how to find open-barrel connectors on Digi-Key or Mouser?
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All you would ever need to learn about these things:
https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...8-2_Standard_FASTON_QRG&DocType=DS&DocLang=EN
https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...ERMINALS_-_FULL_CATALOG&DocType=CS&DocLang=EN
https://www.te.com/commerce/Documen...ocNm=82227_0506_001-076&DocType=CS&DocLang=EN
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That is the confusing part. I do not understand the differences between the different types of terminals and which types are appropriate for my use and which tool goes which which type.
Thank you for the sorted Digikey link.
Should I keep the tool and buy "open-barrel connectors" like you linked, or return it for a different type? I purchased it through Amazon Prime it will not cost me anything to return it.
Buy the crimp type connectors from Madisound or some other reputable audio parts source that has good quality gold plated connectors. Don't get the bulk packaged junk that Amazon sells.
Here is the link to the Madisound page for the connectors that I think you are looking for. They come in different sizes to match your speaker terminals.
QC250-B Black Quick Connect 0.25 inch
Also, if you need help you can call Madisound and talk to either Adam or Brian about it.
Here is the link to the Madisound page for the connectors that I think you are looking for. They come in different sizes to match your speaker terminals.
QC250-B Black Quick Connect 0.25 inch
Also, if you need help you can call Madisound and talk to either Adam or Brian about it.
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Thanks, do these work with the Klein tool from Home Depot that you suggested?
Good question, and I'm not sure of the answer.
These come with a separate insulator sleeve that you slip over the connector after it has been crimped.
Other types come with a insulator sleeve that is already attached to the connector and you essentially crimp the sleeve at the same time you crimp the wire.
I'm not really sure if the same crimping tool can be used for both types. Maybe someone else can comment.
Otherwise talk to the people at Madisound about it. They should be able to tell you for certain. And let us know here what you find out.
These come with a separate insulator sleeve that you slip over the connector after it has been crimped.
Other types come with a insulator sleeve that is already attached to the connector and you essentially crimp the sleeve at the same time you crimp the wire.
I'm not really sure if the same crimping tool can be used for both types. Maybe someone else can comment.
Otherwise talk to the people at Madisound about it. They should be able to tell you for certain. And let us know here what you find out.
It will work fine for what you are trying to do. The tool does not appear to have dies for crimping the secondary ears for wire insulation support, which are fairly common with most types of connectors, but this isn't a dealbreaker (you can sort of make it work with pliers and/or use heatshrink to implement the strain relief function).
My own preference, for thinner wires, is open-barrel since I personally get better electrical- and long-term performance from them vs insulated closed-barrel. Both types have a long service record in various industries. With thicker wires, say 12-14 AWG and bigger, e.g. PIDG Faston connectors are great.
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No info on the provenance of those gold-plated connectors... likely some sort of grey market supply. Moreover, with the operating principle of these quick connect terminals (the sliding action is supposed to create a gas-tight, vibration-resistant contact point), the gold plating is largely irrelevant.
The Klein crimper linked to earlier seems to be for insulated closed-barrel connectors, which are not the same type as in the Madisound link.
I think you have a lot nerve accusing the good people at Madisound in dealing with grey market products without a shred of evidence to support it.
That pretty much destroys any credibility I might have had for your opinions.
I think these were the first crimps I made with the Preciva I recommended. On the left (blue) is the cheap connector that come with the kit and on the right are branded JST connectors. In both cases the strain relief as crimped very well. Sorry I don't have a more detailed photo.
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Do you have some sort of stake in Madisound? This sort of sensitivity on their behalf is simply bizarre.
Google "yung quick connect" and see if anyone else carries this.
Ah, admittedly, maybe "grey market" wasn't a good choice of words, what I really meant was generic/knockoff/questionable quality. Of course, Madisound will provide their standard aftermarket care...
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What is really bizarre are your comments on this subject, which you clearly do not understand.
The gold plated crimp type connectors that Madisound sells are, in fact, far superior to most of the tin plated alternatives found elsewhere.
And no, I do not have any special interest in Madisound contrary to your snide remark that I do. If you have some issues with Madisound’s aftermarket care I would like to hear about it, because my experience with them has always been completely satisfactory.
The gold plated crimp type connectors that Madisound sells are, in fact, far superior to most of the tin plated alternatives found elsewhere.
And no, I do not have any special interest in Madisound contrary to your snide remark that I do. If you have some issues with Madisound’s aftermarket care I would like to hear about it, because my experience with them has always been completely satisfactory.
Actually that particular lug seems nonstandard. It is made of brass, which may not crimp properly,
or as well as, normal copper lugs. I think it is more intended for just soldering, not crimping.
I happen to live only a few minutes away from Madisound and they seem fine and know about drivers,
but they may not know how good those particular lugs are. Call and ask.
or as well as, normal copper lugs. I think it is more intended for just soldering, not crimping.
I happen to live only a few minutes away from Madisound and they seem fine and know about drivers,
but they may not know how good those particular lugs are. Call and ask.
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