Sounds like you are having fun with the smaller caps 🙂
What is it with these PSU caps that you are unsure over ? Is it which is the positive and negative of the original caps as fitted ?
What is it with these PSU caps that you are unsure over ? Is it which is the positive and negative of the original caps as fitted ?
Like, it looks to me that it would likely be neg pos pos neg? Of course, I would look. The PCB should have on the other side a mark to denote negative as well, shouldn't it? The PCBs on my pre amp did...
Just thrown for a loop where there were so many pins. The smaller caps were fun to replace lol. I thoroughly enjoyed it. I am afraid of too much heat on the PCB though, as one of them started to go black around the solder point. Cleaned it with alcohol after, but still afraid I'm going to cause the circuit to strip away...
Anyway, I am feeling much more confident about the power caps now... I am thinking I am going to have a go at it tonight. I read and reread your comments and photo Mooly, and I think I know how to go about this now. My concern was mainly the positive and negative, and how exactly to wire up all the leads (with the spur, why not just connect directly to the pin?)
Anyway, I am feeling much more confident about the power caps now... I am thinking I am going to have a go at it tonight. I read and reread your comments and photo Mooly, and I think I know how to go about this now. My concern was mainly the positive and negative, and how exactly to wire up all the leads (with the spur, why not just connect directly to the pin?)
Also, the new caps are much smaller in size, and I'm wondering how to tie them back down when finished. May be able to use zip ties... But, I mostly don't want to ruin the amp by messing something up. Plus I paid a lot more for the Gold Tune caps, I'm not even sure if this is worth upgrading or not, but I figure it's fun to do...
Another thing, the leads on the Nichicons look like they are different. Like, they are thicker looking than most? Is that the norm? Not sure how big the hole is for me to solder them, it looks large enough. They just seem stubby and odd compared to the smaller caps.
Another thing, the leads on the Nichicons look like they are different. Like, they are thicker looking than most? Is that the norm? Not sure how big the hole is for me to solder them, it looks large enough. They just seem stubby and odd compared to the smaller caps.
Worst case, I disconnect the old ones, and don't feel comfortable, I can always reconnect them afterwards. Shouldn't do any damage uninstalling them. But, once I get the new ones in, if something goes kaboom. Haha
Well you must be sure on this. Here is something you can do...
Look at your pictures and imagine each 'vertical pair' as I have labelled them here.
1/ Set your meter to DC volts and securely attach the black meter lead to the chassis.
2/ Switch on and measure and record the voltage on A,B,C and D.
You should find that A and D are essentially zero. B will be either positive 'some high value' or negative 'some high value'. C will be the opposite polarity to B.
Measure and record the polarities for reference.
Look at your pictures and imagine each 'vertical pair' as I have labelled them here.
1/ Set your meter to DC volts and securely attach the black meter lead to the chassis.
2/ Switch on and measure and record the voltage on A,B,C and D.
You should find that A and D are essentially zero. B will be either positive 'some high value' or negative 'some high value'. C will be the opposite polarity to B.
Measure and record the polarities for reference.
Attachments
Alright, this sounds easy enough. What if I desolder the old caps, and there is an indicator on the underside of either the cap or the PCB?
Another thing about the spur... Is it necessary or can I just solder the two combined wires to the lead?
As you are unsure... make the measurements and have the absolute proof and info required to either carry on fitting the new or refitting the old.
If the PCB is marked then that's great (lol, but its not totally unknown for such markings to be in error... in very very rare cases).
The caps will definitely be marked in some way. It could even be a tiny + sign punched into the soft rivets of the pins... you will only see those when the caps are removed from the board.
You can just solder the wires to the new caps lead/pcb, certainly to get it all working.
(Don't discount doing the spur though)
Following the paths from the rectifier bridge is the easyest thing !
My old marantz 1122 had such caps with four pins: it was written on the plastic cover "dummy load" 😛
My old marantz 1122 had such caps with four pins: it was written on the plastic cover "dummy load" 😛
I'm just curious if I have any extra wire around... I have cat5 cable for sure, but likely no other wire...
pico, I believe that is the case for my as well, but I was just unsure. Even though, looking at the traces on the PCB, it most definitely appears so...
The spur can be as short as a mm or so. It is just to bring those connections away from the high ripple currents that are flowing through the other conductors.
Its not an obvious concept to grasp. Imagine a hose with water flowing through it. If you puncture the hose and stick your finger in the hole you 'feel' the flow. Now imagine a tiny spur of hose off the main one. There is no flow in that spur. Its quiet and still.
Its not an obvious concept to grasp. Imagine a hose with water flowing through it. If you puncture the hose and stick your finger in the hole you 'feel' the flow. Now imagine a tiny spur of hose off the main one. There is no flow in that spur. Its quiet and still.
This makes sense. I am wondering now if I will have difficulty getting the wires soldered to the shorter terminals on my new caps? The old ones are longer and the wires are wound around and soldered.
So, I'm looking at the old ones now, and is marked on the caps (NEG BLACK). They are Marcon CE60W-J I think... I'm going to desolder one to see if I can't figure out more after it has been removed...
I can't advise you on that I'm afraid because I don't know exactly what your new caps look like, but there should be no major difficulties in doing all this.
You will have to figure the mechanics out and whether the new caps will fit directly or whether it needs some work to get them to fit the PCB. Redrilling the PCB is seconds of a job if the new caps and their connections don't quite match the existing holds. Its quicker to do than to think about it 🙂
You will have to figure the mechanics out and whether the new caps will fit directly or whether it needs some work to get them to fit the PCB. Redrilling the PCB is seconds of a job if the new caps and their connections don't quite match the existing holds. Its quicker to do than to think about it 🙂
I think I am going to give it a whirl. Another question I have is, I have had my amp off for a while now, and when I turn it off, the music continues to play until it slowly dies off. Is this the discharge of the caps? Or am I at risk of electric shock?
Just wanted to let you know, Mooly, that all worked exactly as you said. Thank you so much for the helpful diagrams. I have ordered some more capacitors for my pre amp as well! I'm wondering what sort of improvements or changes to expect. But, already I am noticing a different, more tightened bass response with the Gold Tunes...
More open, I believe as well, and those are just the immediate changes. It sounds like the way I think a new amp would? Does that make sense? How much of an impact would new caps have?
Thanks again!!
More open, I believe as well, and those are just the immediate changes. It sounds like the way I think a new amp would? Does that make sense? How much of an impact would new caps have?
Thanks again!!
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