Recapping Vintage Toshiba Power Amp

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Sounds like you are having fun. When it comes to component break in, opamps (all semiconductors) and resistors and non electrolytic caps... it just doesn't happen. Electrolytics do change slightly as they form with newly applied voltage but it should be all over and done with in minutes.
 
That's good to know. I think the change is subtle. But, again, there is a different sort of sound. I haven't changed the other opamp, and wonder if I would notice it more on a digital front end. I will be doing this over the weekend, I believe.

I had a scare for a minute, and thought that I applied too much heat as I desoldered the old opamp. Thought I had caused the pad to come off the board. But, I don't think it was the case, or if it was, when I resoldered the pin, it adhered back?
 
So, I now have some questions. I believed I had crossed the leads on the opamp I dropped in. Lost sound from left channel. Diagnosed that there was indeed some solder there between the two. Removed the solder. It worked fine.

But, I infrequently hear a high pitch squeel from left channel. I wiggle the phono cables a bit, and this goes away. Is this a product of the opamp? Would it be a problem that I had crossed the leads? Could this kill the opamp? I have several, so it shouldn't be an issue to replace.

Another thing I was wondering, if I heated up the board too much, what would happen? I've heard the pads can come off, and I thought that had happened, but when I applied new solder to the pad after replacing the opamp, it appeared to be fine.

My other question is, would the 5532 be the best choice for the phono stage? as this is the one I'm speaking on. I like the sound. But, am curious about those points I've mentioned...
 
But, I infrequently hear a high pitch squeel from left channel. I wiggle the phono cables a bit, and this goes away. Is this a product of the opamp? Would it be a problem that I had crossed the leads?

Very very unlikely to be the opamp if its wiggleable. Unlikely as in 99.99% its not. Give the PCB a thorough examination to make sure no solder splashes or dropped blobs of solder have made there way onto the print. See if the PCB flexes as you move the leads/sockets. Check for dries on the sockets too.
 
My other question is, would the 5532 be the best choice for the phono stage? as this is the one I'm speaking on. I like the sound. But, am curious about those points I've mentioned...

The 5532 is technically the opamp of choice to replace the 4558 (its bjt and much higher performance) but don't discount just trying something else such as the TL072. You might like what you hear.

Pads... yes, they can break and it can be far from obvious. That actually is quite a likely scenario. An easy way to repair is just to scrape the lacquer from the print with a knife and then lay a single strand of wire across the area and solder.
 
Just some shots of the caps. Do they look okay?

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