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I guess the designer can explain the operation to us mortals, looks a bit fishy/Great. But how can you tell it is "perfectly stable"?
Definitely fishy. The definition of stable that I used when I started out was that it doesn't oscillate. Actually, that's a more sophisticated definition...I started with it's stable if it's not on fire. Later I raised my game to: not much ringing. It wasn't until too much time had passed that I realized the vast chasm in my knowledge: stability is a very elusive creature.
The first amp I built as a kid in the 70s used Sinclair Z30 modules and a cardboard chassis. It played loud then self ignited and started a fire in my room. I got grounded for some time. I think it was a stability issue 🤔.
Surprise, surprise built the same Sinclair and then made my own PCBs of it using a felt tip pen. At least I never had a fire but took me a while to copy the PCB. Interestingly enough the BD139/140 used then as outputs remain my GOTO driver transistors to this day, they sounded so nice.
My first amp was a Millard amp using ECC83 and an EL84 with transformers stripped from of an old broken radio gram in the sixties, that was when I knew audio will become my life. The chassis was also made of cardboard cut from a shoebox. It was amazing because it worked first time! Then I duplicated it because stereo became the thing, but the second channel hummed, probably because I knew nothing of grounding.
That is when I also learned that HT capacitors remains at 350VDC long after the amp was turned off
That is when I also learned that HT capacitors remains at 350VDC long after the amp was turned off

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One firework I remember happened when I had my amp on the lounge floor with the lid off (the lid was always off because I was constantly altering the circuit!). Anyhow, on this occasion, "instability" caused a tantalum capacitor to overheat, separate from its legs and launch itself into the air like a miniature flare. Much like the recent Musk rocket. It had a bright flame and a trail of gasses and drew a perfect parabola in the air, up and then down onto the arm of my new sofa, burning a small hole. I was not pleased.
I think mine had quasi comp BD155. Not sure BD139/140 can handle 15W/8ohm.Interestingly enough the BD139/140 used then as outputs remain my GOTO driver transistors to this day, they sounded so nice.
You are right, BD155, can't remember to well any more. Maybe I should become USA president.
Only 10 PCBs left for this amp.
The price for a pair of PCBs (for a stereo amplifier) is 40 Euros (shipping is including).
If someone is interested, send me a message.
The price for a pair of PCBs (for a stereo amplifier) is 40 Euros (shipping is including).
If someone is interested, send me a message.
A few PCBs are still available for this MOSFET power amp designed by J. Linsley-Hood.
The price for a pair of PCBs (for a stereo amplifier) is 40 Euros (shipping is including).
If someone is interested, send me a message.
The price for a pair of PCBs (for a stereo amplifier) is 40 Euros (shipping is including).
If someone is interested, send me a message.
I can't find a way to send you a PM to take this forward, perhaps you can PM me and I can then reply, ok?
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- Rebuilt of Linsley Hood MosFET amplifier from Wireless World 1982