Might be better if the mid/tweeters were just repurposed to be mids only and then cross them over to a tweeter placed on the top of the cabinet.
Re:"a Xover that would run 1 T/M as a Tweeter and the other as a Mid?" - you could try a small inductor (~ 0.2mH?) in series with the lower mid, and see how that sounds. If OK follow up with a small cap (~4.7uf?) in series with the top one. There may be balance issues however, I suspect the original used 2x M-Ts to match the efficiency of the woofer... or perhaps it was for power handling??
Just remembered these are '16' ohm drivers, so for an arbitrary 4KHz xover, 0.62mH & 2.7uF would be closer to the mark
Just remembered these are '16' ohm drivers, so for an arbitrary 4KHz xover, 0.62mH & 2.7uF would be closer to the mark
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HI, I am a newbe to vintage audio. I picked up a set of Optimus 1Bs at a thrift store. Woofers are great but the tweeters have been replaced with junk. I saw you replaved the mid=tweeters with a PS95 a couple years ago. How is that working today and do you have any suggestions if I do the same today? Alternatively, I will just search for 4 orig drivers. ThanksRe:"a Xover that would run 1 T/M as a Tweeter and the other as a Mid?" - you could try a small inductor (~ 0.2mH?) in series with the lower mid, and see how that sounds. If OK follow up with a small cap (~4.7uf?) in series with the top one. There may be balance issues however, I suspect the original used 2x M-Ts to match the efficiency of the woofer... or perhaps it was for power handling??
Just remembered these are '16' ohm drivers, so for an arbitrary 4KHz xover, 0.62mH & 2.7uF would be closer to the mark
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Hi JB, it's working fine, It's now my daughters HiFi system, paired with an old Panasonic turntable,
If you want the original drivers, I still have them, but the PS95 is far superior
If you want the original drivers, I still have them, but the PS95 is far superior
thanks
Thanks, did you eventually do a crossover or just cap the PS95's? What cap did you use?Hi JB, it's working fine, It's now my daughters HiFi system, paired with an old Panasonic turntable,
If you want the original drivers, I still have them, but the PS95 is far superior
Just used a cap, can't remember the value, but would have sized it to xover at the baffle step Freq,
so probably 47uF
so probably 47uF
PeteMcK, Going back to your initial post, how did you measure the TS parameters of the 2510A woofer? Manually, REW. DATS or ?
I'm using REW and so far am getting much higher Qts and Fs for the set I have. I wanted to use them in a 1.7 cu ft box, posibly ported but not sure yet as I need to do more analysis with WinISD. Using your values it would be a nice fit, but with my values not so good.
Thanks!
I'm using REW and so far am getting much higher Qts and Fs for the set I have. I wanted to use them in a 1.7 cu ft box, posibly ported but not sure yet as I need to do more analysis with WinISD. Using your values it would be a nice fit, but with my values not so good.
Thanks!
Hi 4R5, I use the LIMP module of ARTA, with a simple jig to make my measurements. With old speakers that have been unused for some time, the spider stiffens up and raises Fs & Qt. Unfortunately there's no magic potion that will decrease the stiffness of phenolic spiders, although it's work giving them a LF workout for several hours, which may make some difference. Cheers
Good point on the spiders, I will exercise them and see what happens. I will ty retesting with ARTA as well. Appreciate your response!
Necro post but there are a pair for sale on Facebay at the moment and while I do want to buy them the seller seems to have changed his mind and isn't responding to my queries.
How have these been holding up Pete?
How have these been holding up Pete?
Pete if you had another set today how do you think you would go about "improving" a pair?
Vifa D27's fit the upper hole but what might work in between?
Vifa D27's fit the upper hole but what might work in between?
Moondog, my current ethos is to spend nothing, so I'd see what I have lurking in the shed... I'm even scavanging ply & chipboard... How about a Dayton PC105 as a mid? (or the smaller PC83?) or for something different DJ City has the Faital Pro 3FE22 3″ Inch?
I guess it would depend on the sensitivity of the woofer in what seems a few versions.
Lots of 3" drivers out there. been wanting to check out DW3-1053SC dayton, not too bad 86 dB
Be interesting to go all paper using a phenolic ring tweet as well.
Or just 2x full range, top end of one would be filtered out for no combing or less at least
These optimus speakers remind me of the Altec Atlantic

Lots of 3" drivers out there. been wanting to check out DW3-1053SC dayton, not too bad 86 dB
Be interesting to go all paper using a phenolic ring tweet as well.
Or just 2x full range, top end of one would be filtered out for no combing or less at least
These optimus speakers remind me of the Altec Atlantic

My problem is that I've always liked big drivers so nothing much small on the shelf apart from some Sony HTiaB drivers with tiny magnets and pretty ragged sound
You are right of course, I have some great small 5" truncated drivers that would physically fit but the damned things are 3 Ohm [ 2,3 DCR]Moondog, my current ethos is to spend nothing, so I'd see what I have lurking in the shed... I'm even scavanging ply & chipboard... How about a Dayton PC105 as a mid? (or the smaller PC83?) or for something different DJ City has the Faital Pro 3FE22 3″ Inch?
Re:'damned things are 3 Ohm" - if you've got 4 -MTM for the mids??? or Series Xover if they need some padding?
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