That is exactly my nefarious plan! I was thinking of a two way, electronic crossover etc.
Same here, chk this https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/and-what-did-we-buy-today.143603/post-7705690
I'm recycling everything possible, from old bricks and wood to electronics, but now I got way too much, my garage is messy museum of old equipment, need to pass that to others...
Not really, check diagrams for 7.1 (or 5.1) inputs, they normally go through preamp, volume control , 3 front channels usually through extra tone controls (thats why I usually use surround channels as main) and out through buffer. This is a block diagram of sony Str-dg700 that I have, audio from multichannel input goes through DIR chip (input selection and volume control) but not through converters and DSP, its the same on Rotel:
Oh Nooo, why? Because you think your Sony is not worth it? Do you have manual of it? Might be it is good! Otherwise it should be easy to find something in higher class at bargain...
Why, one will do ....
Exactly, I would not worry about power. Watts in active system do not add, they quadruple. If you have 2 x 50W amps one driving up to 300 some HZ and another above (as Lalaland said, half power is somewhere about 300 hz) , you effectively get 200W equivalent if it would be passive XO, not 50+50=100. Tweeter will be happy with 10-15W.
Check these nice articles, Rod Elliot is very fine myth breaking guy:
https://www.sound-au.com/articles/amp-power.htm
https://www.sound-au.com/bi-amp.htm
Plus, these consumer units tend to make really high voltage rails comparing to current delivery and heat dissipation possibilities . That means that they are able to deliver big short term power (as both PS and heat sink can be shortly overloaded) but not continuous RMS sine wave power. But than , who is listening to continuous high power sinewaves? Music is exactly what they are made for, very low average power, with some powerful transients. So unless the plan is to power a club where only DUB, rave and hiphop are played, its all good.
That seems like a familiar kind of madness there. Although I have started to reduce and be more critical because I sense a form of stress when collecting too much stuff. I used to work at a university and salvaged a lot of stuff that was beeing thrown away. Managed to just save a working pair of Genelec 1031A's. Those are currenly used in my living room. Good call sharing those links BTW. Rod Elliot site is a gold-mine of information
So what else to do than be inspired by other "mad" people and go on second-hand market to see what's there. I need another project like I need a second nose. But I found a Onkyo TX-NR3007 9.1 amp. By a quick look at service manual this one is worth parting with 100euros for, if only to salvage parts.
If you like tinkering with stuff like this I say go for it. Be careful with high voltages though 🙂
Hi
You can use older Yamaha avr receivers, until about 2012, as is, by using the multichannel inputs, select 8 channel, normally it is on 6 channel, see manual for the selection, I am using this stereo active 3 way ( makes 6 channels) setup for years with a modified Behringer DCX 2496, works perfectly..
Cheers, Tom.
You can use older Yamaha avr receivers, until about 2012, as is, by using the multichannel inputs, select 8 channel, normally it is on 6 channel, see manual for the selection, I am using this stereo active 3 way ( makes 6 channels) setup for years with a modified Behringer DCX 2496, works perfectly..
Cheers, Tom.
This is how I used my Yamaha for a period. Works fine if SE inputs and 6 channels are ok. I wanted volume control for all 8 channels, and ran into some issues. I made a thread about 2 years ago: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...nel-use-a-little-guidance-appreciated.392123/
Used multi-channel amps from the distributed audio market (whole-building multi-zone installs) can be picked up for bargains. Not dirt-cheap old AV receivers level of bargains, but the internals of some models can be robust and reasonable quality. Some models that may suit include:
- Crestron CNAMPX-12x60 (some minor diy may be required for simple use without the companion controller)
- Niles Audio SI-1260
- Speakercraft BB1265
You have me motivated again this morning. My Sony appears to work the same as yours, which is good! I downloaded the service manual, for free! And I’m working my way through it. I have to review the various boards and sections. 🤪
I checked out your link to the cars full of video studio equipment, I have a similar affliction. We moved recently and a lot of my stock went to the recycle center. I did keep some Cysco router boxes that are mil-spec, really heavy thick steel. Interesting power supplies in them.
Going against my own advice here. Just went out a bought this Onkyo for about 80€. Looks like a beefy unit with 9 amplifier in neat separated modules. It even has twin fans and a standalone buffer board made with 5532's. I'm probably afflicted by some recycling mania as well
Ohh, this looks like fantastic donor for up-cycling, seems that every power amp channel is on its own board, so many possibilities to use this, music in every room !
Yeeeee, Im just sorry that ocean is between us Arthur, I also have Cisco router specifically made for audio computing, along with Grass Valley routers, Trilogy mix boards, Ghielmetti and neutrix patch bays... you name it, we could make nice scrap yard for vintage technology !
Wow! Lookit all that great stuff! How does one pronounce HCPS. Hic-ups? Have fun with that one! When you turn it on do the lights dim?
I recently got one of the integra versions of this amp. All the same except it has a hilariously large potted toroidal transformer. This thing us a gold mine of parts with unusually high quality throughout. Omron relays. Toshiba 1941/5102 outputs. Huge nichicon filter caps etc.
Im nut sure, but thats funny😄 So you have probably coined the new term - Onkyo Hic-Ups 👌
Havent notice dimming of light. Mostly led lights anyway and EI transformer doesn't have too much inrush current
The integra version with the huge toroidal transformer actually has a slow start circuit with thermistors and relays which I was quite impressed with.
Standard stuff for diy buy I've never seen it anywhere else in the mainstream big brand commercial offerings.
Standard stuff for diy buy I've never seen it anywhere else in the mainstream big brand commercial offerings.
Ran Across this thread thinking along the same lines.....not necessarily as taking and reusing an entire chassis and parts to create or repurpose it's outputs, etc. like for an active biamped setup and such (within possibly said donor chassis)......But, really, more so, as a general perspective that hit me when a local record and stereo shop (that resales gear from the esoteric 50,000 plus level worth, down to like 100 a pair polk monitor 40s, etc.) gave/sold me various pieces from the literally bargain basement that houses pieces obtained but not yet to be inventoried, plus working, then eventually out to the floor for sale. I suppose as a bonus for being honest, after he bought a particular list of gear I had refurbished and needed to thin the herd. ANyway, short version without getting too complicated: I was able to buy a Denon 4803, Integra DTR-50.5, Marantz SR8001, and AMC 2100 all for $25 bucks a piece !! Or anything thats down there, he will let me get for no more than $50, etc. But having just those 4.....wherein the marantz has issues I don't have the time to trace down, and the amc 2100 (very underrated) I shorted the outputs or worse by accidentally jerking a speaker wire loose while it was bridged, etc.
But yeah, after getting into low powered tube amps for my cornscala speakers, along with building amp camp amps.......I can't help but look at some of these parts, which are usually the most expensive parts for a build, and think theres gotta be a a way to repurpose them. The integra I like just keeping and using for home theater or HT preamp, but the other 3 have huge toroidal transformers, and a plethora of heatsinks......In any case, I suppose the big question is, after seeing these HUGE TOTL monster receivers from 10-20yrs ago being up for auction in huge #s, typically for maybe 150, etc., and that it's gotta be worth it in various cases to use for linear power supplies, heatsinks or chassis, along with even binding posts etc. to build other DIY variant amps. You guys think that's feasible or worth it? Esp with dirt cheap non-working models? Or if not, does anyone know of any particular model wherein they think it is worth it?
But yeah, after getting into low powered tube amps for my cornscala speakers, along with building amp camp amps.......I can't help but look at some of these parts, which are usually the most expensive parts for a build, and think theres gotta be a a way to repurpose them. The integra I like just keeping and using for home theater or HT preamp, but the other 3 have huge toroidal transformers, and a plethora of heatsinks......In any case, I suppose the big question is, after seeing these HUGE TOTL monster receivers from 10-20yrs ago being up for auction in huge #s, typically for maybe 150, etc., and that it's gotta be worth it in various cases to use for linear power supplies, heatsinks or chassis, along with even binding posts etc. to build other DIY variant amps. You guys think that's feasible or worth it? Esp with dirt cheap non-working models? Or if not, does anyone know of any particular model wherein they think it is worth it?
Seems you got it 🙂
These monsters now out of fashion are dirt cheap, full of really nice difficult to source and expensive components, and on top, if they work they are useful as they are, without cannibalizing. I use one big Rotel and one Sony for various purposes, always reliable and with volume control.
For scavenging parts, and for general use, I would only advise to go for top models of the era, price difference is less than 100 € . Really cheap models will not give best parts, neither performance, but they will waste your time that is also valuable, Go for models that costed 1000 or more when new!
PS, paid 20€ for Rotel and 10€ for Sony AVR receiver, both with lost remote control. That's about the cost of few output transistors