Questions & Advice for a MAOP 5 WAW

Hi everyone,

I am planning on building WAW speakers and I am looking for some advice.

Goals & Context
Here is some of the things I'd like to do in no particular order:
  • Keep the box relatively small (around 30L max)
  • Around 30cm wide baffle max and around 20cm deep (shallow design)
  • F3 of 30hz, up to 20khz
  • Should work well pushed into corners
  • Vented box for the sub for extra extension
  • Closed box for the wideband (or better suggestions?)
On a more subjective angle (probably not so helpful, but still including it here). I guess I love a 'vintage' sound that's not boomy in the sense that romantic / coloration is not something that normally bothers me. I want to be able to dream away and drown in the music. Not to say that do not believe in measurements, it's just that a flat response curve is not a particular end goal for me. One of the reasons I wanted this system to have an active XO is to also learn and listen for myself how drivers can integrate to produce a sound I love.

Where I am so far
I've been both drawing up some sketches for aesthetics and playing around with Hornresp to get some feeling for what is possible. Nothing is decided yet but I am aiming for something like below. This particular one is sketched to be 294mm wide, 193mm deep and 770mm. I like this because in my opinion these look 'less heavy' when placed on a stand or legs (which I haven't designed yet), as opposed to a floor-standing tower that reaches all the way to the ground.

1739299616894.png


So far I've made these decisions:
  • Wideband will be Markaudio MAOP-5s
  • Subwoofer will be the SB23MFCL45-4
  • I'll use a MiniDSP Flex as a digital XO
  • Port on the back
There is still lots open. With this thread I am mostly looking for some thoughts and input for further exploration. Not sure how best to approach this, so I think I'll just post the things I am pondering over in separate posts for anyone to shoot at. Starting with...

A Hornresp Rocket?
In Hornresp I currently converged on modelling a vented box for the SB subwoofer with a slight taper, that gave me a response in the 30hz region while remaining the internal volume under 30 L. Here is a few screenshots from one of the configurations I ended up with, just to give you an idea of what I was doing:

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Then I started playing around with this configuration and I suddenly ran into this weird configuration where the horn is almost like a rocket. This simulates really well for my purpose and decreased the size of the port somewhat. Not sure if this is something I will do, but I am honestly wondering how this configuration can give such a response? The start of the port feels so incredibly small... Anyone knows what is happening here and if this is something worth exploring further? Some screenshots...

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In the end I just decided on a slotted port and started building! Here are a few snapshots from the build, currently in the process of oiling the cabinets. I still need to decide on legs / a small stand, but already super excited to experiment with this new setup.
 

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Very pretty. I expect M5 is one of the stellar midTweeters, Are you bi-ampinmg?

Hard to believe no-one noticed your original posts.

I suddenly ran into this weird configuration where the horn is almost like a rocket

Called a BVR — big vent reflex. Many examples out there,

When i first saw the pic in Post 1 i thot A26 sealed WAW. But you did very well on your own. How big is your box?

A26CGR-WAW.png


A26-midTLs.png


I am partial to modTLs, your sealed approach is fine and much like @waxx A10.3 WAW.

dave
 
Are you bi-ampinmg?
Yes, for now I am going to manage the XO using a MiniDSP so I can play around a bit. The idea of this speaker build and its setup is that I have a bit of a platform for experimentation. Maybe in the future I will also tryout a PPLXO.

Called a BVR — big vent reflex. Many examples out there,
Thanks for clarifying! I hadn't come across that yet.

When i first saw the pic in Post 1 i thot A26 sealed WAW. But you did very well on your own. How big is your box?
Wow, those A26s look very pretty. I really love wide baffles like this. Are they deliberately trapezium shaped for them to go into a corner space efficiently?

In the end, I settled on a relatively compact, shallow design:

FR Enclosure (inner)
Width 264mm
Height 101mm
Depth 170mm
~ 4.5 L

Sub Enclosure (inner)
Width 264mm
Height 691mm
Depth 170mm
~ 28.8 L (system volume without bracing)

Things that I am reflecting on and likely have to do diifferent next time:
  • Thicker walls for the box, currently 15mm. The subs baffle is double that, but only on the top half of it around the woofer to keep some extra space.
  • The slotted port on the back is very thin, almost impossible to route accurately.
  • I am a bit anxious about port velocity at higher level listening, we'll see how that goes.
  • Probably lots more, if anyone sees/thinks something please call it out (eager to learn!)
Will post some more pictures when they are done and in the room!
 
XO using a MiniDSP so I can play around a bit.

I have considered one just for the versatility when designing.

dave
Are they deliberately trapezium shaped for them to go into a corner space efficiently?

They have a very low diffraction signature. Concepot orrowed from my trapezoidal miniOnkens:

This set of pictures of various µFonkenSet trapezoidal miniOnkens.

uFonkenSET-6x-comp.jpg


These are 2.5 litre. I have done them up to 135 litre. Trapezoidal midTLs were inspired bythe ones done for the 35 litre one.

A12pw-Mar-Ken-1st-pic.jpg


Thicker walls for the box, currently 15mm

Depends on the material and the bracing. We (mostly — Bernie’s builds are all solid wood) used quality plywood. the little boxes can be 12mm but it is easier to work with 15mm. For a 30 litre box we would use 18mm. The exception being push-push subs where 15mm is suffieicnet (at least to 2 x 12”), for practical purpose at least thicker baffles. Push-push takes advantage of the active reaction force cancelation to largely remove any direct energy into the box thru the baffles and one really has to worry about ballooning.

slotted port on the back is very thin,

Very high aspect ratio vents add R to the vents and pushes the box closer to aperiodic. If you are adding subs stuffing the vents pushes them even further.

Our thin vents were just part if the construction. I bborrowed the concept of vents down the sides from the Onken, then took advantage of pushingn them enuff towards aperidoic and came up with my own alignment. If you add a sub really easier to add open cel foam to push them way further aperiodic to make the transition at the bototm easier.

dave
 
Thanks Dave for all the detailed insights! Really appreciate you taking the time to share your experience.

I also used Baltic birch ply for the build, so that's reassuring to hear. Are there any techniques you'd recommend for determining retrospectively whether a wall thickness is adequate? I'm curious if there are telltale signs (resonances, vibrations, etc.) that would indicate I should have gone thicker with the 15mm walls.

The push-push concept is really intriguing - I love the idea of the active reaction force cancellation. I've seen several implementations but most seem to have the woofers mounted on the sides. I'm personally drawn to having the woofer visible on the front baffle for aesthetic reasons. Have you experimented with front-mounted push-push configurations, or is side-mounting really the only way to do this? I am considering doing an even smaller cabinet push push as the next build, likely also with a smaller budget. Thinking about a WAW with something like the CHN-50.

If I understand correctly, you're suggesting I can still experiment with adding open cell foam to the ports to push the system further toward aperiodic behaviour? That sounds like an interesting way to fine-tune the bass response.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge!


Willem