OK, Anatech, thanks!
So the two single caps in the picture, if connected with common ground to the middle connector and their positives to one of the two positive leads won´t work then. Too bad...
I´ll have to see see my way to ordering online, but it may take a while to set up if my daughter skives from helping me with an on-line order like this.
Meanwhile I´ll test the other units´ innards.
Let´s see what happens, said the blind man...
Cheers,
Aleatorylamp
So the two single caps in the picture, if connected with common ground to the middle connector and their positives to one of the two positive leads won´t work then. Too bad...
I´ll have to see see my way to ordering online, but it may take a while to set up if my daughter skives from helping me with an on-line order like this.
Meanwhile I´ll test the other units´ innards.
Let´s see what happens, said the blind man...
Cheers,
Aleatorylamp
They will work. They are just poor quality. You need to look at ripple current ratings at elevated temperatures inside the case.
Each component is designed in a certain way for a reason.
Each component is designed in a certain way for a reason.
You should be able to get the parts you need from digikey, mouser, or another reputable supplier. Don’t get parts off eBay or AliExpress.
The crackling in the preamp is likely dirty pots. The volume control on the 22 is a really hard part to work with since it combines volume, balance, and the on/off switch. Get some good contact cleaner (not wd-40!) and clean them up.
I would avoid doing any intrusive work on the 22 unless you absolutely have to.
If you haven’t already been warned, voltages inside the amp can be lethal, even when turned off. If you power the amp up you absolutely need to verify the power caps are discharged before you stick your hands in. Best to get a cheap second multimeter and hook it up to the caps and leave it while you’re working on it.
The crackling in the preamp is likely dirty pots. The volume control on the 22 is a really hard part to work with since it combines volume, balance, and the on/off switch. Get some good contact cleaner (not wd-40!) and clean them up.
I would avoid doing any intrusive work on the 22 unless you absolutely have to.
If you haven’t already been warned, voltages inside the amp can be lethal, even when turned off. If you power the amp up you absolutely need to verify the power caps are discharged before you stick your hands in. Best to get a cheap second multimeter and hook it up to the caps and leave it while you’re working on it.
Any DC potential across a good control will make it noisy. Just fixed a Sansui AU-111 with that exact issue. Leaky coupling caps are very, very common. I always estimate for them.
I wonder if a 100W soldering iron is a bit of a liability. I bought my Weller WECP-20 thermostaically controlled soldering iron 2nd hand, and it will probably fetch a similar sum to what I paid if I was to advertise it again. I have it set to a warm 360deg Fahrenheit, and I use a good quality Kester leaded solder with a roisin core
Similarly a variac is just about essential for slowly ramping up the voltages in long dormant or modified valve elctronics. Ultimately the job is a lot more fun if you have the right tools, even trivial bits like long nosed pliars and wire cutters.
You mentioned your multimeter does not function on all scales. A cheap digital multimeter will take a lot of uncertainty away when you need to debug voltages at a later stage.
Similarly a variac is just about essential for slowly ramping up the voltages in long dormant or modified valve elctronics. Ultimately the job is a lot more fun if you have the right tools, even trivial bits like long nosed pliars and wire cutters.
You mentioned your multimeter does not function on all scales. A cheap digital multimeter will take a lot of uncertainty away when you need to debug voltages at a later stage.