hershann said:
for Shunty:
change one of zenners (in D1 - D5 string) for 4V7 , so - you'll have ~ 40V after Q2
set (with WR1 ) output voltage to 30V
in case that you can go so low - increase R9 to 7K5
same procedure for negative side of Shunty
you'll be fine even with 50VA , just look is it too warm .......... in case that these 50VA aren't real 😉
steenoe said:
Magura 🙂 / whom is contemplating the option of making a new rear plate for Steens pre box.
I had a feeling that you would have something like those heatzinks laying around 😀 the LL setup of the heatzinks in the picture has nothing to do with your avatar....i think😉
Magura said:
Steen, you're the man! I knew it.
I still wan't to see the frontplate
Work in progress almost finished.
(Not speaking of the casing. I think I will follow Holgers suggestion on german fora : buy a ML 32S. Throw away the inside ... (Holger : ich scherze nur.
Nice INt 150 review BTW.
I like your style.)
Just waiting for some missing caps for shunty.
manu
Zhe-Modski should be spanked for making me thread kiddy M3.
The tie-strap thing is kind of fun once you get the hang of it, and so Blue
The tie-strap thing is kind of fun once you get the hang of it, and so Blue
jacco vermeulen said:
Nice board, Jacco🙂 Blue tie-straps 😱
Did you fire any of them boards up, yet?
🙂
Zen Mod said:
Unfortunately not. I have been working hard on the Pumpkin though, but it seems I am getting a bit rusty from my new way of life. Check the picture😀 I seem to be running into all sorts of probs. YGM.
🙂
steenoe said:
Dude, my shadow solders faster than me.
Me just finito the Shunthings, they operate ok(despite having half the junk soldered on the Sponge Bob side)
I had to call in the cavalry to identify the pass devices, me saving Fairchilds for better use.
(a sadist would request a blind person to sort some semis, then hand him a bunch of virtually blank IRFs)