Any chance you can share these schematics?
I didn't realize how old this thread was, sorry for the resurrection!
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OK, I contacted Paul McGowan of PS Audio and he enthusiastically gave me permission to post the schematics here.
Below are the diagrams for the PS model IV preamplifier rev G and H versions including the power supplies, as well as the power amplifiers including the original model 2, the model 2C rev F and G versions and the 2CPLUS amplifier rev B.
Please be aware that the following changes to the 2CPLUS were subsequently made according to Rick Cullen (production service manager); Q1 2N2920 was changed back to two MPS8099s, C10 was eliminated, and a 0.1uF capacitor was added between the base of Q7 and the negative rail. He also recommended using 2SA909 and 2SC1586 for the output transistors (faster devices but lower current rating). Finally, I have found that the DC voltage polarity on C3 can sometimes be backwards to the schematic and should be measured with a voltmeter and installed accordingly.
The later versions of both the preamps and power amps exclusively used Corning Resista type for the 1/4 watt resistors.
I believe that the Elite used most of these same circuits as well.
Take care,
Doug
Below are the diagrams for the PS model IV preamplifier rev G and H versions including the power supplies, as well as the power amplifiers including the original model 2, the model 2C rev F and G versions and the 2CPLUS amplifier rev B.
Please be aware that the following changes to the 2CPLUS were subsequently made according to Rick Cullen (production service manager); Q1 2N2920 was changed back to two MPS8099s, C10 was eliminated, and a 0.1uF capacitor was added between the base of Q7 and the negative rail. He also recommended using 2SA909 and 2SC1586 for the output transistors (faster devices but lower current rating). Finally, I have found that the DC voltage polarity on C3 can sometimes be backwards to the schematic and should be measured with a voltmeter and installed accordingly.
The later versions of both the preamps and power amps exclusively used Corning Resista type for the 1/4 watt resistors.
I believe that the Elite used most of these same circuits as well.
Take care,
Doug
Attachments
You are very welcome Chris! This way I will no longer have to respond individually every few months to others looking for this information.
Is there any way that the thread title could be modified to reflect the additional info here to make it easier for other people to find?
Take care,
Doug
Is there any way that the thread title could be modified to reflect the additional info here to make it easier for other people to find?
Take care,
Doug
Possibly bad switch contacts, volume and/or balance pots, any mechanical components in signal path (connectors, etc.)
I recently heard from an Elite Plus owner, with a completely "dead" condition. Turned out to be all in the switches. Clean, clean again, repeat ad nauseum until it works or the switch(es) can't be resurrected.
P.S. (No pun) I have the Elite non-plus, sounds great at 40+ years old.
I will keep it no matter what.
Hi Doug, I hope your well,
I also have been searching for the Schematics to the PS Audio Elite amplifier I wonder if you are able to share them with myself, I have purchased one in the last couple of days and it has a burnt PCB and some of its components, I would appreciate any thing you have on the amp, I thank you in anticipation of a reply.
Thanks Andrew.
I also have been searching for the Schematics to the PS Audio Elite amplifier I wonder if you are able to share them with myself, I have purchased one in the last couple of days and it has a burnt PCB and some of its components, I would appreciate any thing you have on the amp, I thank you in anticipation of a reply.
Thanks Andrew.
Doug, I very much appreciate this info. I will likely strip down the Model 1 and do some reverse engineering. Once I figure out the circuits (they are mirror imaged) I will post my findings. Ironically, I still own a 4.5 Pre. 2C+, a couple 2 C's, 200c, and that old Model 1. I also have a few MC phono pre's and stand alone phono preamps. It is amazing what you find when you do a little bi decade cleaning..LOL
Take care,
Lloyd
Take care,
Lloyd
I still like the sound of the 2C+. But trying to replace those ring emitter outputs is not likely anymore. Thankfully mine was still working fine when it went into storage almost 30 years ago. I will have to do a full recap if I ever choose to use it again. I can't count how many PS amps I know of that were destroyed when some well-meaning soul plugged them after years of storage. Those PS caps do not age well! same with the electrolytics on the PC.
These amplifiers do sound great and were a fantastic bargain back when they were new.
I have sufficient stock of all parts needed to keep a few of these amplifiers going for a very long time. The biggest problem with the entire Model Two series was that the outputs and heat sinks were marginal for the power output. I have replaced outputs on these amplifiers many dozens of times, as well as the main power supply electrolytics like you mentioned.
A friend of mine owns four Two C+ amplifiers and I needed to repair at least one of them every few years, so I added a second set of outputs and heat sink to each one and they have all been 100% reliable ever since. The updated PS Audio amplifiers that I built use four pairs of outputs per channel and even though they are a lot higher power output than the original, I expect that those transistors will last "forever".
Take care,
Doug
I have sufficient stock of all parts needed to keep a few of these amplifiers going for a very long time. The biggest problem with the entire Model Two series was that the outputs and heat sinks were marginal for the power output. I have replaced outputs on these amplifiers many dozens of times, as well as the main power supply electrolytics like you mentioned.
A friend of mine owns four Two C+ amplifiers and I needed to repair at least one of them every few years, so I added a second set of outputs and heat sink to each one and they have all been 100% reliable ever since. The updated PS Audio amplifiers that I built use four pairs of outputs per channel and even though they are a lot higher power output than the original, I expect that those transistors will last "forever".
Take care,
Doug
Another resurrection. I have just finished a few nights on the bench with the Elite. I rotated it out of the system because it has started to exhibit an intermittent hum so I now plan to re-cap the unregulated power supply and possibly some caps in the regulated sections, if I see anything there with the scope when it "manifests".
So the advice I got three years ago about the dirty front panel pushbutton switches was right on. After spraying them with QD and plenty of exercising, they are all fully functional and the preamp is working fine.
BTW, the main power supply 17,000 uf / 40 volt caps are not rare but pricier than some Cornell Dubliers and a few other brands I located, in 20,000 uf / 50 volt snap-in design for about five bucks each. They are fatter and shorter and will be mounted in the area where the phono preamp was located.
Which brings up the subject of the phono preamp board, which is available for the cost of postage if anyone wants it. PM if so.
One more note, indeed the line amp section does indeed remain powered when the Elite's power switch if off. I have yet to test for whether the headphone jack is powered by the line amp or not.
So the advice I got three years ago about the dirty front panel pushbutton switches was right on. After spraying them with QD and plenty of exercising, they are all fully functional and the preamp is working fine.
BTW, the main power supply 17,000 uf / 40 volt caps are not rare but pricier than some Cornell Dubliers and a few other brands I located, in 20,000 uf / 50 volt snap-in design for about five bucks each. They are fatter and shorter and will be mounted in the area where the phono preamp was located.
Which brings up the subject of the phono preamp board, which is available for the cost of postage if anyone wants it. PM if so.
One more note, indeed the line amp section does indeed remain powered when the Elite's power switch if off. I have yet to test for whether the headphone jack is powered by the line amp or not.