Replace all of them, clamp all components tightly to the heatsink and insert a 10-15 amp fuse in the B+ line before applying power.
You need to insert some sort of insulator between the clip-on heatsinks or otherwise make sure that they cannot make contact. Apply heatsink compound between the clip-on sinks and the transistors.
You need to insert some sort of insulator between the clip-on heatsinks or otherwise make sure that they cannot make contact. Apply heatsink compound between the clip-on sinks and the transistors.
All parts installed.
+15 v has .860
-15 v has -1.30
Rechecked all solders and they are good. Tried a sound test and nothing.
Any suggestions?
+15 v has .860
-15 v has -1.30
Rechecked all solders and they are good. Tried a sound test and nothing.
Any suggestions?
Confirmed Q15 is the 6488. They are installed exactly like picture other than I have yet to install the headsink. I wanted to verify sound before installing. The ones that came out had part numbers facing me with the power supply on my left. I installed the new ones the exact same way.
Are you sure that you have them as shown in the photo? In the photo, you can see the preamp board in the lower left corner. The fronts of the transistors are facing the right side of the photo.
I couldn't see the fronts in the picture. So with that said I believe I have them in flipped the wrong way. I put them in the same way the old came out. Would putting them in backwards fry them?
I will switch them around and see what happens.
I will switch them around and see what happens.
Not to hijack but my amp went to inoperative and was for the voltage regulators. I did what Mr Babin said but be absolutely sure that the solder in the B649 is good. I was having erratic -15v readings and rechecked everything with no luck, so i desoldered my mod (as you can see in my thread, i put the voltage regulators directly to the heatsink), removed all the old solder, resolded them and reinstalled everything and the amp was working as normal. Note that i reused the old parts because where i live i never found replacements for b649,i would like to do that in the future.
I have learned from this amp a lot!
I have learned from this amp a lot!
Status update. Got Q15 & Q16 turned around and installed heat sinks. Powered up amp had proper voltage at +/-15 volt pins. Hooked speaker to amp with audio input through RCA connection. Worked like a champ. Thank you again Perry for all of your help. I will remember you if I ever have amp problems in the future.
Will let you know how it works when reinstalled in vehicle and hooked to subwoofers.
Will let you know how it works when reinstalled in vehicle and hooked to subwoofers.
Be sure to reinstall properly the amp when you are going to wire with the woofers. I did not install mine properly (loose conection in the B+) and the fuses got melted. My amp is still working right now, i had mine powering two CVR´s 12" 8 ohm each, bridged. Sounds very good.
Glad that everything works now.
Glad that everything works now.
Installed back in vehicle. Worked properly for about a minute then switched into protection mode.
Are you sure that there isn't a problem in the vehicle that caused it's original failure?
If you disconnect the RCAs and speaker wires from the speaker terminals, does it still go into protect?
If you disconnect the RCAs and speaker wires from the speaker terminals, does it still go into protect?
I will test it in a different vehicle that I know has goot power supply and RCA signal lines. I will post how that test goes tomorrow.
I placed the amp back on the bench test power this morniing with no audio iut or output connected. When powered up it does not go out of protection mode into green light power. I can also hear a ticking sound about every five seconds coming from near the power supply side of the amp.
What should i test next?
What should i test next?
Check the output transistors.
Do all of the transistors appear to be laying flat against the heatsink?
Are any of the insulators damaged?
Did you check your speakers and wiring in the vehicle to confirm that there was no problem (shorted wiring or speaker, improper load impedance...)?
Do all of the transistors appear to be laying flat against the heatsink?
Are any of the insulators damaged?
Did you check your speakers and wiring in the vehicle to confirm that there was no problem (shorted wiring or speaker, improper load impedance...)?
I have checked all transistors and they appear to be in the proper position. I removed board from heatsink and inspected all solder points and connections. Nothing appeared out of place or burnt. No visable damage to insulators. Checked vehicle with nothing testing out bad. Hooked up different amp in vehicle and it worked without incident.
Kicker amp still remains in protection mode when bench testing powered up. Clicking noise from power input side of board continues. As stated before clicks about every five seconds.
Unsure of where I went wrong. Any help on the next step would be much appreciated.
Kicker amp still remains in protection mode when bench testing powered up. Clicking noise from power input side of board continues. As stated before clicks about every five seconds.
Unsure of where I went wrong. Any help on the next step would be much appreciated.
With the board out of the heatsink and a 10 amp fuse inline with the B+ line, power it up for a few seconds to see if it comes on normally or goes into protect.
The amp stays in protection mode. Light will not go green.
Clicking noise continues from power input side of the board.
Clicking noise continues from power input side of the board.
While closely monitoring the temperature of all heatsink mounted components, allow it to try to power up for about 10 seconds. Does anything get hot?
Do you see a pulse of DC across the speaker terminals of either channel as it clicks?
Do you see a pulse of DC across the speaker terminals of either channel as it clicks?
The transistors do not get hot.
When the amp is clicking the right side audio output will start at .100 dc volts and it slowly climbs up to .316 then the click and it drops back down to .100, and back up to
.316 until the next click.
Left side audio is lower than right in dc voltage and it seems to stay stable.
When the amp is clicking the right side audio output will start at .100 dc volts and it slowly climbs up to .316 then the click and it drops back down to .100, and back up to
.316 until the next click.
Left side audio is lower than right in dc voltage and it seems to stay stable.
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