lohk said:But who asks for 20Hz ?
That is no bass anymore, just a deep rumble, virtually no record has significant energy in that region for a good reason, because it is musically complete irrelevant and it just sucking energy from the amplifier.
Bass, real bass, is at least an octave or more higher, and can be reproduced by reasonable sized or constructed loudspeakers.
Klaus,
I've not heard the Proac speakers, nor have I heard any clones of them. I have no opinion of their sound quality or lack of it. I take it that they're smallish, and would presume at that point that they are unlikely to have much in the way of deep bass. If the manufacturer claims to get flat response to 20Hz, then a few things occur to me: either the speakers are very inefficient--bringing the mids and highs down to match a comparatively weak low bass, the manufacturer is playing games with the specs, or perhaps they've discovered hitherto unknown laws of physics that allow something seemingly impossible.
However...
My post was in response to the quote above, which I find...well, interesting to say the least.
I, like Bryan, am one of those who asks for 20Hz. No, in fact, I demand it, at least in my own system. (Others may be satisfied with less, that's their choice to make. Yes, finances and SAF also play a part, here.) A system that doesn't respond down to low frequencies isn't well-balanced in my book.
Yes, there are records (and CDs) with information that low. Quite a few of them. And in stereo, too.
Yes, in fact, I can hear that low.
I don't use a sound card, I use a frequency generator, and can give you any frequency you like, from tenths of cycles on up. Yes, I have good pitch differentiation at low frequencies. Perhaps it's because I've been playing bass for 30 years (so I'm rather fond of my low melodies, and am quite adept at following them), but I think not, as a number of people of my acquaintance have the ability also, so I don't think it's rare.
I'm well aware of the sound of air turbulence in a reflex cabinet, which is, in part, why I used sealed cabinetry for my subs. Some people are impressed by the feel/sound of the air currents. Personally, I'd rather listen to music.
You said in your post script that you don't understand what part low frequencies play in dynamics. Take a well-recorded bass drum and filter out the low frequencies. To me, the difference seems blatant--it begins to sound like a cheap radio. If you disagree...well, okay...no one (least of all, me) is going to force you to have deep bass in your system.
Incidentally, I've never regarded any Klipsch speaker I've come across as having any better than average bass, *particularly* the horn models. Loud, yes. Efficient, yes. Deep...no.
Grey
What about a clone of the Pro_Ac Tablette ?
Anyone seen one or know what drivers are in this L/S ?
Anyone seen one or know what drivers are in this L/S ?
Update...
I've built a pair of the Proac 2.5 clone! My first diy speakers too!
They can be viewed here: http://www.geocities.com/deepfriedsotongball/proac25/
I used 1" mdf throughout and had adjusted the volume to 41 litres as what WinISD suggests with stock 8535 woofers. Alas carpenter assumed I want a box ON a plinth rather than a box with a larger bottom piece so the volume is lesser. No bracing was used.
Crossover uses Bennic (Solens OEM) capacitors, Jantzen Foil inductor (only the largest value inductor for woofer xover) and are mounted externally from the enclosure.
Internal wiring is DNM Reson.
It hasn't burned in yet even after i passed them to the friend whom i built them for so I can't comment on sound quality yet. Preliminary hearings shows that they are coloured compared to my Dynaudio speakers but more enjoyable *shrug* Used Dynaudio Contour 1.3SE anyone? I might want a pair for myself once i finish tweaking the proac and hear the results.
My purpose of this post is that i have a few questions to ask.
I've built a pair of the Proac 2.5 clone! My first diy speakers too!
They can be viewed here: http://www.geocities.com/deepfriedsotongball/proac25/
I used 1" mdf throughout and had adjusted the volume to 41 litres as what WinISD suggests with stock 8535 woofers. Alas carpenter assumed I want a box ON a plinth rather than a box with a larger bottom piece so the volume is lesser. No bracing was used.
Crossover uses Bennic (Solens OEM) capacitors, Jantzen Foil inductor (only the largest value inductor for woofer xover) and are mounted externally from the enclosure.
Internal wiring is DNM Reson.
It hasn't burned in yet even after i passed them to the friend whom i built them for so I can't comment on sound quality yet. Preliminary hearings shows that they are coloured compared to my Dynaudio speakers but more enjoyable *shrug* Used Dynaudio Contour 1.3SE anyone? I might want a pair for myself once i finish tweaking the proac and hear the results.
My purpose of this post is that i have a few questions to ask.
- I have problems finding 5mm bitumen pads & dacron, any alternatives?
- Woofer is too deep into enclosure cavity and tweeter sticks out of enclosure. How important is getting the drive faceplates flush with baffle?
- Speaker seems to be very unforgiving with harsh pop recordings, anyways to go about this?
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Hope someone can answer my queries 🙂
François said:Nice finish, with what kind of wood did you do that?
its actually vinyl veneer!
Hey Fishball,
I've always heard that getting the tweeter perfectly flush is very important. You should really fix this.
For bituman type stuff try roofing material.
What we call Torch-down roofing is bitumin. A brand is Bituthane by WR Grace company. It comes in rolls.
I'm not sure if it has fibers in it though.
This stuff is different than regular tar based roofing.
Other roofing products to repair roofs, in cans, have fibers.
I'm planning on this approach on my speakers.
Has to be a lot cheaper, you can put it on thick, and should work!!
Your speaks sure look nice,
I've always heard that getting the tweeter perfectly flush is very important. You should really fix this.
For bituman type stuff try roofing material.
What we call Torch-down roofing is bitumin. A brand is Bituthane by WR Grace company. It comes in rolls.
I'm not sure if it has fibers in it though.
This stuff is different than regular tar based roofing.
Other roofing products to repair roofs, in cans, have fibers.
I'm planning on this approach on my speakers.
Has to be a lot cheaper, you can put it on thick, and should work!!
Your speaks sure look nice,
Guess i'll have to do some sanding down!
Thanks for the information on the roofing material. I live in the tropics, Singapore hence will have a tough time finding these... nonetheless with a brand name its easier! Thanks once again
I'll relay the comments to my carpenter 🙂
Thanks for the information on the roofing material. I live in the tropics, Singapore hence will have a tough time finding these... nonetheless with a brand name its easier! Thanks once again
I'll relay the comments to my carpenter 🙂
Hey, those clones look great, have you had chance to hear them again now they are probably run in a bit ?
have you tried standing them on spikes?
have you tried standing them on spikes?
Friend will be away for a few months so I won't get to hear em till then... will update you guys then.
I have been informed that fumes from some roofing products can damage the glues used to assemble the drivers. So..... I guess we need to avoid the roof repair stuff that smells strongly of solvents.
bi wirable
On the clone website it does not show the speakers biwirable
This is an easy change has anyone done it & is there any benefit?
On the clone website it does not show the speakers biwirable
This is an easy change has anyone done it & is there any benefit?
I'm finishing a pair with split biwire crossovers tomorrow. Will report. The originals have a biwire connection.
WHOOIE!!
OK, Finished them. The best DIY I have ever heard! The best sound I've had in my house including the Martin Logan Aerius i, Apogee Duetta Sigs, PSB Stratus Gold i, So close to the original if not better. I will have to take them over to my buddy's house and compare them to the original. Anyone contemplating a place to start a high end system could do no wrong with these. WHOOOIE!
OK, Finished them. The best DIY I have ever heard! The best sound I've had in my house including the Martin Logan Aerius i, Apogee Duetta Sigs, PSB Stratus Gold i, So close to the original if not better. I will have to take them over to my buddy's house and compare them to the original. Anyone contemplating a place to start a high end system could do no wrong with these. WHOOOIE!
dshortt9,
Please do and let us know the results!!!
Sounded great with Smashing Pumpkins... im sorry but thats the heaviest i got.
Please do and let us know the results!!!
griff said:How do they sound with something heavier, ie - Slipknot or Korn!?!?
Sounded great with Smashing Pumpkins... im sorry but thats the heaviest i got.
Plenty of bass, no subs required in my 300 sq ft room. Very articulate, transparent, dynamic, tonally true to the insrument. Lots of air around each instrument with natural attacks and decay. Sounds like the $4500 loudspeaker it imitates. I really don't need to compare them side with the originals as two friends of mine have owned the 2.5's for years and I'm intimately familiar with them from many hours of listening sessions. One buddy finally gave up his 2.5's for 3.8's. The Clone is actually a bit smoother probably due to the Alpha Core inductors and the film and foil crossover caps. The original uses ferrite core and solen caps. KORN sounds wonderful with every nuance and detail perfectly rendered. Build 'em and they will come.
dshortt9 said:One buddy finally gave up his 2.5's for 3.8's.
Any chances of him opening it up to confirm this 3.8 plan i found on the internet? 😛
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