Well, I've made a temporary cardboard mount for the FaitalPRO, and wired it up in an 8ohm configuration. I'm glad to say that the results you're expecting here are what I seem to be seeing, and consistency is important!
With my Yamaha receiver, I can get close to these values - I can boost 3.15kHz, and cross over at 400Hz for the woofers.
Sadly, I don't have a way of boosting anything between 400Hz and 1kHz. Would I be able to combine the ouputs of the woofers (i.e. cross them higher) and the fullrange speaker to fix that?
I can do a time delay with this receiver as low as 0.3 metres (1 foot). Given that 1.24ms is 0.42 metres, I might be able to get close in that sense!
You need to cut the Faital 3FE25 from 400Hz to 4kHz by 10dB not boost it. If they are on separate channels just decrease gain overall of the 3FE25 relative to woofers. You won't be able to cross with woofers much higher as the natural bandpass starts falling off right around 400 to 500Hz. You may be able to play around in mono with a full 2ch biamp system using the trick I found in this thread. Use left and right for sub and tweet and Jriver to effect the low pass on the left channel for the woofers and high pass on the right channel for the tweeter. There is a good DSP parametric EQ in Jriver. It works quite well and is the poor man's mono miniDSP that everyone has on their computer. It will let you play around with the EQ settings and XO until you get a real miniDSP. I would highly encourage you to get one and a couple of $15 TPa3116 amps.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/261506-using-stereo-sound-card-create-mono-2-way-active-crossover.html
One more thing. You should get a mic and REW and measure the response in order to properly EQ it. My guideline is a start but there may be differences in your build and in basing this on the 3FE22.
Good luck!
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/261506-using-stereo-sound-card-create-mono-2-way-active-crossover.html
One more thing. You should get a mic and REW and measure the response in order to properly EQ it. My guideline is a start but there may be differences in your build and in basing this on the 3FE22.
Good luck!
Hi there all.
After some time I have now on sunday not so much to do, so I did think about the enclosed room before the bass speaker.
To make that room 50 procent smaller I did order dustcaps for the woofers, I do use fiber under the cap to fill room, and re-measure the woofer if my amp for that is ready.
I do not now what will happen.
regards
kees
After some time I have now on sunday not so much to do, so I did think about the enclosed room before the bass speaker.
To make that room 50 procent smaller I did order dustcaps for the woofers, I do use fiber under the cap to fill room, and re-measure the woofer if my amp for that is ready.
I do not now what will happen.
regards
kees
Attachments
Kees,
I never thought about doing this with a dust cap. You are changing the TS params by adding mass though. We are running into a situation in this thread and may have to build an inverse cone form to take up volume. Right now volume of B&C 10CL51 is 850 CC and it needs to go down to 450 cc.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/262838-synergy-tripp-10-a.html
I never thought about doing this with a dust cap. You are changing the TS params by adding mass though. We are running into a situation in this thread and may have to build an inverse cone form to take up volume. Right now volume of B&C 10CL51 is 850 CC and it needs to go down to 450 cc.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/262838-synergy-tripp-10-a.html
Kees,
I never thought about doing this with a dust cap. You are changing the TS params by adding mass though. We are running into a situation in this thread and may have to build an inverse cone form to take up volume. Right now volume of B&C 10CL51 is 850 CC and it needs to go down to 450 cc.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/262838-synergy-tripp-10-a.html
Indeed when you ad mass like the dust cone it will get higher qts, because of more mass, but the cones are very light and strong, remeasure the speaker will get more info, when a woofer with a big motor I think not much wil be changed.
just try it, the volume of cone is sometime a problem, there are woofers with inversed cones who are really flat because of that, like auto woofers.
A cone cap need to be strong a inverted one is more strong then what I have.
For yours problem, use a dustcone inverted? a big one just a cm below the rubber, like with much auto woofers. see example.
regards
kees
Attachments
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Conical 83 deg x 37 deg full range synergy
Over in the Synergy TripP 10in thread, I came up with a design using a conical horn with a pair of TB W5-876SE's and a FaitalPro 3FE22 for the full range. It appears to be a decent performer on paper with max SPL of 116dB. This may be of interest to folks who want a constant directivity horn that uses flat panels for standard plywood construction vs having to cut a curved tractrix panel.
More info here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/262838-synergy-tripp-10-a-13.html#post4083447
Here is the response at xmax (note that this will be subject to the native cone breakup of the full range driver around 9-12kHz):
Over in the Synergy TripP 10in thread, I came up with a design using a conical horn with a pair of TB W5-876SE's and a FaitalPro 3FE22 for the full range. It appears to be a decent performer on paper with max SPL of 116dB. This may be of interest to folks who want a constant directivity horn that uses flat panels for standard plywood construction vs having to cut a curved tractrix panel.
More info here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/262838-synergy-tripp-10-a-13.html#post4083447
Here is the response at xmax (note that this will be subject to the native cone breakup of the full range driver around 9-12kHz):
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Sorry for the lack of updates - it's because I haven't done anything since! It's been hard finding time to finish the Trynergy.
Thanks for linking to the Synergy Tripp thread! One thing I noticed about a flat panel design compared to the Trynergy is that it's really difficult to assemble! So much so with the one I did that I gave up!
The cardboard version (using silicone sealant as the adhesive) was easy, but 1/2" wood was not 🙂
Thanks for linking to the Synergy Tripp thread! One thing I noticed about a flat panel design compared to the Trynergy is that it's really difficult to assemble! So much so with the one I did that I gave up!
The cardboard version (using silicone sealant as the adhesive) was easy, but 1/2" wood was not 🙂
UnaHM,
Sorry to hear time has not been on your side. Thanks for the feedback about ease of assembly of a flat panel horn not being so easy. I was really surprised how easily the curved tractrix came together once the curve is cut properly. It really builds itself if you anchor the ends and force the edge to a flat surface. I can imagine getting a clamp in the odd angles is tough. Maybe screws and glue? Are you going to get a miniDSP or will you be using the multi channel sound card approach?
I agree, it really does build itself! I'm just stuck at that part of the build where I still have to make the mount for the FaitalPRO, and the enclosures for it and the woofers.
I really want to get started on the second one too, so that I can complete the stereo pair before making a cohesive setup.
I think I'll go with the multi-channel soundcard system for now, as it doesn't require any extra resources for me, and has been successful in the past. I'll certainly make sure that I get some screenshots of the DSP configuration once it has been set up, and also a configuration file itself so that people don't have to spend ages moving sliders around, or entering values 😉
I really want to get started on the second one too, so that I can complete the stereo pair before making a cohesive setup.
I think I'll go with the multi-channel soundcard system for now, as it doesn't require any extra resources for me, and has been successful in the past. I'll certainly make sure that I get some screenshots of the DSP configuration once it has been set up, and also a configuration file itself so that people don't have to spend ages moving sliders around, or entering values 😉
The mount is a simple 6in x 6in square with a 2in x 2in cutout. I agree that the rear chamber boxes are a pain. If you will be making a larger enclosure to hold it all together you can use a ready made easily available container of some sort and screw or glue it onto the flange to enclose the driver. Put some stuffing inside and run some wires and use a removable adhesive like silicone caulking.
I think I'm actually going to change my mind on that for now, and follow the approach you've taken. I was initially concerned about stacking the speakers on the subs, but I'm changing my mind in that sense, and I'll mount them on a stand, or something.
That's all the energy I seem to have at the moment 🙄
That's all the energy I seem to have at the moment 🙄
I do have a minor update:
1. I've worked out how to get my receiver to set the timing and EQ of speakers correctly. It was complaining to me, because I didn't have all of the speakers needed for a 7.1 setup plugged in, so I found which checks to skip 🙂
2. My wife needed me to run an errand to Lowe's. Whilst there, I picked up another sheet of the plastic lighting fixture sheets, this time for a whopping $1. I'm glad I kept the template handy from the first one, as I had the side walls cut out within 10 minutes. I suppose I'll need to start gluing again!
1. I've worked out how to get my receiver to set the timing and EQ of speakers correctly. It was complaining to me, because I didn't have all of the speakers needed for a 7.1 setup plugged in, so I found which checks to skip 🙂
2. My wife needed me to run an errand to Lowe's. Whilst there, I picked up another sheet of the plastic lighting fixture sheets, this time for a whopping $1. I'm glad I kept the template handy from the first one, as I had the side walls cut out within 10 minutes. I suppose I'll need to start gluing again!
So have you played music with the new EQ settings yet? What about the rear sealed boxes?
The template was handy. Now you will have stereo.
The template was handy. Now you will have stereo.
Sorry, my 'tests' were with another set of commercial speakers. I still need to create the sealed chambers for the speakers. I really need to get on with it! 🙂
I'm working from home today, so I started gluing up the plastic panels for the second speaker...
The glue is still setting as it was fairly cold in the garage, but I opened the door to let some of the outside warmth in. If it's strong enough, maybe I can glue the rest this evening...
Have you mounted the woofers on the first one? Any more photos? How is your DSP and amp system coming along? Is that all ready to go?