I have a craftsman multimeter and i don't think it has diode check on it... All the stuff is at my brother's shop so thats why it takes me a lil while to respond back!..
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You have to use a soldering iron to melt the solder to remove them. You'll need either a desoldering pump or desoldering braid to remove the solder.
Here are my reading i've gotten with the multimeter......
colors are the lead colors obviously! I checked them with the 2000k setting and the 2000 setting.
Q212 (C4467 01Y)- 2000k- 375 w/ Black on E, Red on B
360 w/ Black on C, Red on B
2000- 505 w/ Black on E, Red on B
501 w/ Black on C, Red on B
Q213 (C4467 01Y)- 2000k- 340 w/ Black on E, Red on B
325 w/ Black on C, Red on B
2000- 487 w/ Black on E, Red on B
484 w/ Black on C, Red on B
Q214 (C4467 01Y)- 2000k- 000 w/ all combinations
2000- 022 w/ all combinations
Q215 (A1694 9DP)- 2000k- 396 w/ Black on B, Red on E
385 w/ Black on B, Red on C
2000- 518 w/ Black on B, Red on E
515w/ Black on B, Red on C
Q216 (A1694 9DP)- 2000k- 393 w/ Black on B, Red on E
386 w/ Black on B, Red on C
2000- 519 w/ Black on B, Red on E
517 w/ Black on B, Red on C
Q217 (A1694 9DP)- 2000k- 398 w/ Black on B, Red on E
390 w/ Black on B, Red on C
2000- 521 w/ Black on B, Red on E
518 w/ Black on B, Red on C
From what I can see its obvious that Q214 is bad.... How do I go about finding the part I need to replace it? Also, do I have to replace any of the others? Is there any other parts I need to check on the other side of the output part and/or power supply part? Just wanna make sure I don't replace something and it not totally fix it or causes one to go bad again. 😕
colors are the lead colors obviously! I checked them with the 2000k setting and the 2000 setting.
Q212 (C4467 01Y)- 2000k- 375 w/ Black on E, Red on B
360 w/ Black on C, Red on B
2000- 505 w/ Black on E, Red on B
501 w/ Black on C, Red on B
Q213 (C4467 01Y)- 2000k- 340 w/ Black on E, Red on B
325 w/ Black on C, Red on B
2000- 487 w/ Black on E, Red on B
484 w/ Black on C, Red on B
Q214 (C4467 01Y)- 2000k- 000 w/ all combinations
2000- 022 w/ all combinations
Q215 (A1694 9DP)- 2000k- 396 w/ Black on B, Red on E
385 w/ Black on B, Red on C
2000- 518 w/ Black on B, Red on E
515w/ Black on B, Red on C
Q216 (A1694 9DP)- 2000k- 393 w/ Black on B, Red on E
386 w/ Black on B, Red on C
2000- 519 w/ Black on B, Red on E
517 w/ Black on B, Red on C
Q217 (A1694 9DP)- 2000k- 398 w/ Black on B, Red on E
390 w/ Black on B, Red on C
2000- 521 w/ Black on B, Red on E
518 w/ Black on B, Red on C
From what I can see its obvious that Q214 is bad.... How do I go about finding the part I need to replace it? Also, do I have to replace any of the others? Is there any other parts I need to check on the other side of the output part and/or power supply part? Just wanna make sure I don't replace something and it not totally fix it or causes one to go bad again. 😕
Yes, Q214 is shorted.
As the prefix 2S to the part number (2SC4467) and look it up on the MCM electronics site.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product.asp?product_id=2SC4467&catalog_name=MCMProducts
You need to replace all 3 of the 2SC4467s in that channel.
Before ordering parts, reinstall all but the shorted output and make sure the amp powers up and produces clean audio. If it does, order the parts. If it doesn't, you'll have to do more troubleshooting.
As the prefix 2S to the part number (2SC4467) and look it up on the MCM electronics site.
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product.asp?product_id=2SC4467&catalog_name=MCMProducts
You need to replace all 3 of the 2SC4467s in that channel.
Before ordering parts, reinstall all but the shorted output and make sure the amp powers up and produces clean audio. If it does, order the parts. If it doesn't, you'll have to do more troubleshooting.
Amp powered up.. i had to turn the head unit up to get louder sound out of it but seems to be pretty clear.. I was using a pioneer stereo of my brother's so i'm not sure if there is a volume gain for the rca jacks. But seems to be working like it should
Some amps take a lot. I have an old HU that might be 2v or less and some amps I can turn the gain all the way up and still have to crank the HU way up. They are always newer amps.
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