I had played with that a bit just in the mockups on paper (a taper), and will when I use the MathCad, however, I had read that small (and I could be wrong here) woofers/drivers are not good candidates for tapering because it ends up raising the resonance frequency of the box?
But...I then read some other contradictory stuff... Wrapping my head around this is a task, especially without getting my hands dirty in MathCad...😕
I'm still planning on summing the low frequency speakers in mono, but keeping them in separate lines... that could change if I can figure out how to keep a similar look... or just all be tossed to the way side.
But...I then read some other contradictory stuff... Wrapping my head around this is a task, especially without getting my hands dirty in MathCad...😕
I'm still planning on summing the low frequency speakers in mono, but keeping them in separate lines... that could change if I can figure out how to keep a similar look... or just all be tossed to the way side.
Last edited:
I had played with that a bit just in the mockups on paper (a taper), and will when I use the MathCad, however, I had read that small (and I could be wrong here) woofers/drivers are not good candidates for tapering because it ends up raising the resonance frequency of the box?
But...I then read some other contradictory stuff... Wrapping my head around this is a task, especially without getting my hands dirty in MathCad...😕
I'm still planning on summing the low frequency speakers in mono, but keeping them in separate lines... that could change if I can figure out how to keep a similar look... or just all be tossed to the way side.
If keeping the bass section small is important, .. you could investigate isobaric alignments / isobaric TL . This will compromise your efficiency significantly, though
I had started to read up on different isobaric configurations, but - as you stated, they do reduce effieincy which I don't think I'll have a lot of 'juice' to make up for?
right now, the entire width of the boombox is 25" in length - I don't want to go any larger, as I've squeezed just about as little room as I can and still keeping it tuned to the fs (all math is done on paper, I'm sure I can get some more fudge room with mathcad).
the internal dimensions (without the t-line walls) per side are w:11" x L:10" x h:8" (total height is actually a little over 12" after I put the battery and components atop).
without the t-line walls the internal volume is WAY larger than what the driver would need, if it was in even a ported enclosure, so a different design of just about any other will bring the size down, I suppose.
right now, the entire width of the boombox is 25" in length - I don't want to go any larger, as I've squeezed just about as little room as I can and still keeping it tuned to the fs (all math is done on paper, I'm sure I can get some more fudge room with mathcad).
the internal dimensions (without the t-line walls) per side are w:11" x L:10" x h:8" (total height is actually a little over 12" after I put the battery and components atop).
without the t-line walls the internal volume is WAY larger than what the driver would need, if it was in even a ported enclosure, so a different design of just about any other will bring the size down, I suppose.
with the woofers summed in mono, and near each other, will I benefit from a +db boost?
1. From what I understand, ... most music is summed to mono in the bass, so you might not benefit "significantly" by taking the extra care to sum the woofers signal
2. The woofers should sum constructively for the frequencies you're dealing with.
You are going to be constrained by the volume available to implement the sub channel with - unless this is to be an ENORMOUS boombox.
Sum the bass signals into a mono channel.
Build one sub (or bass) channel only.
Don't get hung up on theoretical "summing gains" of multiple woofers. Frankly the "+6dB gain" of two bass channels that are too damn small to be any use is not going to help. Build a single channel that perfroms as well as you can in the volume you have available.
I saw comments on making things strong. This is a boombox, you might want to write down a few of your "key functional requirements".
To be a boombox must:
- Be portable
-> Not be too large - at a guess a "massive boombox" in my mind would be >700mm long
-> Not be too heavy, ideally able to be shouldered, "breaking point?" 10-15kg?
- Be battery powered (though some might disagree)
- Be stereo
- Be moderately loud, but not necessarily insane
- Have decent bass, but not necessarily insane
If you nut out your essential requirements, it will help sort the options and limits of your design.
Sum the bass signals into a mono channel.
Build one sub (or bass) channel only.
Don't get hung up on theoretical "summing gains" of multiple woofers. Frankly the "+6dB gain" of two bass channels that are too damn small to be any use is not going to help. Build a single channel that perfroms as well as you can in the volume you have available.
I saw comments on making things strong. This is a boombox, you might want to write down a few of your "key functional requirements".
To be a boombox must:
- Be portable
-> Not be too large - at a guess a "massive boombox" in my mind would be >700mm long
-> Not be too heavy, ideally able to be shouldered, "breaking point?" 10-15kg?
- Be battery powered (though some might disagree)
- Be stereo
- Be moderately loud, but not necessarily insane
- Have decent bass, but not necessarily insane
If you nut out your essential requirements, it will help sort the options and limits of your design.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.