I am surprise no one mention this amp yet, guess I'll be the 1st to start this.
This is a I suspect this amp should became fairly popular as it is one of the few T-amp with Remote volume control.
It uses a TA2022 with around +/- 35v, a LM4562 for buffer/gain (~3x) stage, and an electronic volume chip "M62429" will some additional circuit for remote control.
I was attracted to it be the remote control and the use of the LM4562 (because it is currently my favorite opamp) which shows the design must know a thing or two about good sound. Oh, and the good price helps (sorry, google this yourself).
The amp sounds surprisingly good despite the signal path going thur 3 e-cap (Elna audio bi-polar). And already better than the 41hz amp3/6 I had use before (mostly likely because my speaker requires a bit of current to drive).
I initially thought that the electronic volume was the CS3310, but no, it was a little known chip "M62429". But I believe that this is also a very good sounding chip.
I had already did some mod to this amp. Will post later on this.
Here is an internal pic.
This is a I suspect this amp should became fairly popular as it is one of the few T-amp with Remote volume control.
It uses a TA2022 with around +/- 35v, a LM4562 for buffer/gain (~3x) stage, and an electronic volume chip "M62429" will some additional circuit for remote control.
I was attracted to it be the remote control and the use of the LM4562 (because it is currently my favorite opamp) which shows the design must know a thing or two about good sound. Oh, and the good price helps (sorry, google this yourself).
The amp sounds surprisingly good despite the signal path going thur 3 e-cap (Elna audio bi-polar). And already better than the 41hz amp3/6 I had use before (mostly likely because my speaker requires a bit of current to drive).
I initially thought that the electronic volume was the CS3310, but no, it was a little known chip "M62429". But I believe that this is also a very good sounding chip.
I had already did some mod to this amp. Will post later on this.
Here is an internal pic.
Attachments
Nice little amp. Seems like a far better bang for the buck than the "KingRex" and more power to boot.
It looks like it's missing some oh so important supply decoupling caps. Not sure why they would have left those out.
http://i29.tinypic.com/15n7g51.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/2gufl95.jpg
http://i32.tinypic.com/34hwcb6.jpg
It looks like it's missing some oh so important supply decoupling caps. Not sure why they would have left those out.
http://i29.tinypic.com/15n7g51.jpg
http://i30.tinypic.com/2gufl95.jpg
http://i32.tinypic.com/34hwcb6.jpg
ChuckT said:
Hi Chuck, you´re right.
First I ordered blind without never tested Class D Amps before and
the Poppulse surprizingly gave me much more sound than I ever expected. No thrills in the voices - they appear amazingly clear and present with a great soundstage. And with the Remote a real bargain ... Just have an Idea - what do you guys think ?? Should be
bi-amping possible over Y-Cables ? This would be mean more quality and controll. With the Digital Vol. Level it should be adjust both channels or not ? Does anyone has an idea ?
Hi Dealer, (are u really a dealer?)
Wow, finally a user, I am surprise that it took so long.
Yes, this is a good sounding amp indeed, too bad you don't have reference to other T-amps.
I believe you can do bi-amp as the seller said that 1 remote can control 2 amps.
Please check your amp's fuse as mine has a 1A fuse, it should be around 4~5A.
There is a lot tweaking you can do if can solder. Replacing the 3 coupling e-caps will be an improvement.
Wow, finally a user, I am surprise that it took so long.
Yes, this is a good sounding amp indeed, too bad you don't have reference to other T-amps.
I believe you can do bi-amp as the seller said that 1 remote can control 2 amps.
Please check your amp's fuse as mine has a 1A fuse, it should be around 4~5A.
There is a lot tweaking you can do if can solder. Replacing the 3 coupling e-caps will be an improvement.
ChuckT said:
Hi thanks for the tips. Fuses didnt burn till now and modifiying isnt really needed - thats my opinion. I am no technician and dont want to damage something.
I am not dealing presently, but if there are enough stocks of Tripath chips out there I am going to do that. Sadly the chips arent produced meanwhile because Tripath is killed
Do you know anything about the stock situation of the TA 2022 ?
I got one of these too last month. I thought it didn't have the lows of my Audiolabs. Hadn't listened to it till I got the Trends TA 10.1 a few days ago.
Out of the box, I find the Trends having more detail and soundstage compared to the Poppulse. Actually the Trends drove my old PSBs quite well. Never heard my PSB sounded its high end before. (Compared to my other speakers which delivered it too well.)
Anyway, can you suggest a mod that will get the Poppulse as close to the stock TA 10.1? Cuz now, I'm looking at whether to get the Winsome Labs Mouse instead.
But then again I don't want to make the same mistake like I did with the Poppulse, ie. thought it would sounds as good as the Trends since its Tripath based. The Winsome Labs is based on the T2050 chip.
Another alternative is to get a Value Mod from Audiomagus.
As you guessed, I'm not actually a DIY. Well not yet in the PCB/electronic area. Most of my DIY experience are based on making my own cables.
Out of the box, I find the Trends having more detail and soundstage compared to the Poppulse. Actually the Trends drove my old PSBs quite well. Never heard my PSB sounded its high end before. (Compared to my other speakers which delivered it too well.)
Anyway, can you suggest a mod that will get the Poppulse as close to the stock TA 10.1? Cuz now, I'm looking at whether to get the Winsome Labs Mouse instead.
But then again I don't want to make the same mistake like I did with the Poppulse, ie. thought it would sounds as good as the Trends since its Tripath based. The Winsome Labs is based on the T2050 chip.
Another alternative is to get a Value Mod from Audiomagus.
As you guessed, I'm not actually a DIY. Well not yet in the PCB/electronic area. Most of my DIY experience are based on making my own cables.
The biggest bottleneck for the poppulse is the 6 coupling e-caps. Replace those and you'll be on another level. I suggest Visay MKT1822 3.3uf (63v or 100v) will be an excellent choice.
Check the fuse, if it is 1A, replace it with 4~5A.
The decoupling for the poppulse is not the best. And for the life of me, I don't know why there are no regulation of the +/- 35v and that the e-cap is removed just next to the chip. There are only an Elna 4700uf + 1 smd all the way to the ta2022.
So add a nice > 200uF/35V cap back into that empty cap space next to the chip.
There are a lot more mods that can be done. Later.
I have play with the TA2024 chips before and in my opinion the TA2022 sound better in my system (low efficiency speaker)
Check the fuse, if it is 1A, replace it with 4~5A.
The decoupling for the poppulse is not the best. And for the life of me, I don't know why there are no regulation of the +/- 35v and that the e-cap is removed just next to the chip. There are only an Elna 4700uf + 1 smd all the way to the ta2022.
So add a nice > 200uF/35V cap back into that empty cap space next to the chip.
There are a lot more mods that can be done. Later.
I have play with the TA2024 chips before and in my opinion the TA2022 sound better in my system (low efficiency speaker)
ChuckT said:
Hi, I am also no technician. But I would be pleased to check out your
suggestion. Can you post here or another place a detailed pic where the procedure is easy described. Maybe over imagepaint of microsoft.
Thats easy. I hope soChuckT said:
)And here again I am on limit of my technician knowledge. Maybe I post soon a imageshack link with coloured paints of the whole parts and they are numbered. You can say then for example; "number 6 and 2 must be replaced"ChuckT said:
Anyway - I hope you know what you are speaking about and suggestion. Are you an technician or an interested hobby-user ?
Thanks again for your contribution. Hope to see from you more soon.
Ok Chuck. Thanks for the advice. I shall change change the fuse and try and get those Vishay caps (6 of 'em huh?)
Meantime, I shall wait for my newly ordered Winsome (and probably order the Value Mod Trends from Audiomagus next week too.) And then will attempt the mods on the Poppulse.
This my new do-all strategy. What the heck? I ain't gonna take any money with me when I die, so let's live a little and learn a whole lot more in the process.
Meantime, I shall wait for my newly ordered Winsome (and probably order the Value Mod Trends from Audiomagus next week too.) And then will attempt the mods on the Poppulse.
This my new do-all strategy. What the heck? I ain't gonna take any money with me when I die, so let's live a little and learn a whole lot more in the process.
Thanks chuck for the pic. Much appreciated. This will help.ChuckT said:
Maybe another question: I tried Bi-amping with y-cables.
Worked fine till the buzzing which comes out from one amp. I think
this depends on the voltage transformator. Can I compensate it anyway myself ? I think this doesnt have an effect on the sound or ?
Me myself couldnt hear it out in fact.
ChuckT said:
I hope this Picture (attachment) works, I am not sure. If not please can anyone explain me how to do ??
Just wanted to show a pic of an vishay cap - maybe chuckT could tell me if they look like these ones because one with 3,3 uF I couldnt find here:
http://de.farnell.com/jsp/search/br...FODTJFJQFIAFAZKBQ?N=1000041&Ntk=gensearch_002|gensearch_002&Ntt=vishay|mkt1822&Ntx=&_requestid=121115
Can anyone at least submit that they are yellowcoloured and are squared and not round ??
Attachments
TheDealer said:
Yes, MKT1822 under the ERO brand before Vishay buy them out.
Mine are green with the Vishay label, I don't know if they will be a difference in sound for the old and new.
I got them from Farnell too, so I think you'll get the green one too.
BTW, if u don't need a lot of gain, it may be possible to bypass the opamp and connect directly the M62429 output to the TA2022 input cap. I think inside the M62429 has opamp out already.
If u don't know what I am talking about, just ignore this.
Also order a couple of Rubycon ZL 470uf/35V to put into the empty 220uf/35V cap space next to the ta2022.
There is a lot more u can do... no time....
ChuckT said:
Hi, just didnt hear long time, but you can hear the increase of performance. Sound more relaxed and more control.
One remotecontrol works for both but sometimes the other one gets +1 - +3 more dB than the other. Better is to steer volume step by step.
Or they have to play together a while. Like dancepartners you know
Hadnt ever thougt that you can mod the this amp so much. I you really sure that we listen another level ? I mean "higher" level
Dealer,
Did you manage to get the caps from Farnell? I'm having problems getting the right specs. I thought I found it last week but now I only see mkt 1822 with 2.2uf/63v or 10uf/100v. Can't seem to find them on RS as well, they too have 2.2uf or 10uf. But RS has the 3.3uf in 250v
ChuckT, will the 10uf/100v be ok? Or the 3.3uf 250v?
Did you manage to get the caps from Farnell? I'm having problems getting the right specs. I thought I found it last week but now I only see mkt 1822 with 2.2uf/63v or 10uf/100v. Can't seem to find them on RS as well, they too have 2.2uf or 10uf. But RS has the 3.3uf in 250v
ChuckT, will the 10uf/100v be ok? Or the 3.3uf 250v?
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