RaZmaTaZ said:
Anything over 50V is fine, but since size is limited, get the smallest one that fits, and higher voltage will be bigger and more expensive.
You can try the MKT1820 too, they have 3.3uf/100v, similar to 1822 but with better temperature characteristics.
I just use the 2.2uf/63V, should be good enough unless your speaker can really go below 20hz.
ChuckT/Dealer
Thanks for the response and I have ordered the 2.2uf/63V from Farnell along with the Rubycon ZL. And yesterday I went shopping at our electronics market in town. Got myself all the PCB soldering/desoldering and cleaning stuff.
Meantime I'm getting some R&R in Perth and hopefully all the stuff will come in by the time I get back next week.
I will keep you guys posted on the outcome of my first PCB mod.
Thanks for the response and I have ordered the 2.2uf/63V from Farnell along with the Rubycon ZL. And yesterday I went shopping at our electronics market in town. Got myself all the PCB soldering/desoldering and cleaning stuff.
Meantime I'm getting some R&R in Perth and hopefully all the stuff will come in by the time I get back next week.
I will keep you guys posted on the outcome of my first PCB mod.
RaZmaTaZ said:
I am like u 10yrs ago, knew nothing of electronics.
Now there is so much info on the web. Check out the video below 1st. Practice on old boards 1st, like those throw away sound/video cards.
http://www.solder.net/technical/tips.asp
http://www.elexp.com/t_solder.htm
Enjoy!
Thanks for the links ChuckT. I viewed some at www.tangentsoft.net too. Finally got to try the Hakko 936 using some old add on card (on your advice.) Tore a leg off one of the caps when I tried the second time.
Not easy as the video showed. Anyway, I set the temp to 700F (and sometimes 400c) as I read from the net. Is this ok? De soldering the first cap was easier but the holes were kinda small, one of the legs on the second cap got stuck and that's how I broke it.
Soldering back the caps was another issue but I think it was because I did not clean/tin the legs on the cap. There were lots of oxidation on the legs.
Farnell has the MKT on back order but sent the Rubycon ZL already. Should have order extra in case I mess up. Will attempt to change the input caps once they arrive.
Not easy as the video showed. Anyway, I set the temp to 700F (and sometimes 400c) as I read from the net. Is this ok? De soldering the first cap was easier but the holes were kinda small, one of the legs on the second cap got stuck and that's how I broke it.
Soldering back the caps was another issue but I think it was because I did not clean/tin the legs on the cap. There were lots of oxidation on the legs.
Farnell has the MKT on back order but sent the Rubycon ZL already. Should have order extra in case I mess up. Will attempt to change the input caps once they arrive.
Cool thread, nice work guys!
I was hoping to have one of these amps to mod weeks ago, but my buddies at Audiomagus can't keep them on the shelf! They go out as fast as they come in. I have actually held one in my hands, but I didn't get to keep it.
Hope to have one soon to play with. I'll be keeping an eye on what you guys are doing until then.
Happy modding!
I was hoping to have one of these amps to mod weeks ago, but my buddies at Audiomagus can't keep them on the shelf! They go out as fast as they come in. I have actually held one in my hands, but I didn't get to keep it.
Hope to have one soon to play with. I'll be keeping an eye on what you guys are doing until then.
Happy modding!
Whoaa.. Welcome Pano!
And double whoa... I checked the Elna caps that are to be replaced with the MKT and it is like trying to put a square peg into a round hole.
The Elna's are a 10uf/16v 5-6mm caps. No way it can be done with the 15 mm MKTs especially the ones next to the ATMEL micro controller chip. It will mean a mod of the mod. Heh!
Any suggestions ChuckT?
The reason I want to do the mod is because I feel that Poppulse lacks bass. I want to get the bass to be like the Winsome Labs Mouse that came in last week? (Awesome little amp.) Would Nichicon 10uf/63v capacitors do it? They are 5mm dia and should fit in nicely. If it can, then we'll have a bigger mouse at half the price.
Pano, since you around, what's your take on this?
Also, I'm still waiting for my Tweak Kit II from Audiomagus. They are in short supply of the Auricaps I was told. I also ordered some 22000uf/16v Rubycon YXA and probably the 2200uf/16v Sanyo (SE 65?) as well tomorrow. The reason is that those are drop-in replacement as they are 10mm dia. Your recommended Pannies are 12.5mm (which means replacing the neighbouring caps as well.) Would it the Rubycon or the Sanyo have the same effect as the Pannies?
And double whoa... I checked the Elna caps that are to be replaced with the MKT and it is like trying to put a square peg into a round hole.
The Elna's are a 10uf/16v 5-6mm caps. No way it can be done with the 15 mm MKTs especially the ones next to the ATMEL micro controller chip. It will mean a mod of the mod. Heh!
Any suggestions ChuckT?
The reason I want to do the mod is because I feel that Poppulse lacks bass. I want to get the bass to be like the Winsome Labs Mouse that came in last week? (Awesome little amp.) Would Nichicon 10uf/63v capacitors do it? They are 5mm dia and should fit in nicely. If it can, then we'll have a bigger mouse at half the price.
Pano, since you around, what's your take on this?
Also, I'm still waiting for my Tweak Kit II from Audiomagus. They are in short supply of the Auricaps I was told. I also ordered some 22000uf/16v Rubycon YXA and probably the 2200uf/16v Sanyo (SE 65?) as well tomorrow. The reason is that those are drop-in replacement as they are 10mm dia. Your recommended Pannies are 12.5mm (which means replacing the neighbouring caps as well.) Would it the Rubycon or the Sanyo have the same effect as the Pannies?
How do I mod thee? Let me count the ways.
I mod thee to the depth and breadth and height
1. Change the 6 coupling caps - I use mkt1822
2. Add a 270uf/35v ZL cap to the empty cap hole next to ta2022
3. Replace all the 78/79xx to Motorola MC78/79xxACT. I don't like Fairchild 78xx. The Motorola 78xxACT has better spec.
I could go further and use the Linear type(eg. LT1763), maybe later.
4. Replace various decoupling caps to low esr type.
Elna for Audio -> Nichicon PW 2700uf/35v (what I have on hand at the moment.
Chemicon KY for the +15v, Sanyo oscon for the 5v.
5. Replace the +/-35v rectifier to Fairchild Stealth diode ISL9R860P2.
6. Add a discrete regulator for the +/-35v. I don't know why this wasn't done in the 1st place, even if it didn't sound too bad. I feel better with regulation. I use the simple Zener referenced emitter follower. Don't ask me, I am new to discrete regulator too. Maybe someone can help me to improve this too. I use MJE15030/31, BD179/180 transistors.
Check below for very good info.
http://www.pedjarogic.com/gc/supplies.htm
7. Replace the coil to the 41hz coil that I have on hand. The old coil is far too hot, the 41hz coil is quite a bit cooler but still warm.
I am still looking for better inductor to replace it.
8. Add 2 0.1uf orange drop cap directly on the +/-35v pins.
Don't know why the whole +/-35v has only the Elna 4700uf and a 0.1uf ceramic close to the +/-35v pins for each channel.
9. Bypass the opamp and connect M62429 output directly to the ta2022 input. I know need so much gain and this gives a cleaner sound.
10. Replace the input resistors. I reduce input resistor from 6.8k to 220R using RMG resistor. The 6.8k is use to reduce the normal 2V input a lower level as M62429 can only take max of 1.7V.
I use deq2496 with direct out so output level should be lower than 2v.
11. Replace most of the smd resistors to better type: SUSUMU 0.5% and feedback to more expensive IRC 0.1%
Thats it so far.
I think there are still a few more thing that can be done like replace the caps in the output filter, add a snubber for the PS but don't know the values.
Amazing I did so much with a baby crawling around...
Don't ask me about the improvement, too difficult for me to describe.
Here the inside pic
I mod thee to the depth and breadth and height
1. Change the 6 coupling caps - I use mkt1822
2. Add a 270uf/35v ZL cap to the empty cap hole next to ta2022
3. Replace all the 78/79xx to Motorola MC78/79xxACT. I don't like Fairchild 78xx. The Motorola 78xxACT has better spec.
I could go further and use the Linear type(eg. LT1763), maybe later.
4. Replace various decoupling caps to low esr type.
Elna for Audio -> Nichicon PW 2700uf/35v (what I have on hand at the moment.
Chemicon KY for the +15v, Sanyo oscon for the 5v.
5. Replace the +/-35v rectifier to Fairchild Stealth diode ISL9R860P2.
6. Add a discrete regulator for the +/-35v. I don't know why this wasn't done in the 1st place, even if it didn't sound too bad. I feel better with regulation. I use the simple Zener referenced emitter follower. Don't ask me, I am new to discrete regulator too. Maybe someone can help me to improve this too. I use MJE15030/31, BD179/180 transistors.
Check below for very good info.
http://www.pedjarogic.com/gc/supplies.htm
7. Replace the coil to the 41hz coil that I have on hand. The old coil is far too hot, the 41hz coil is quite a bit cooler but still warm.
I am still looking for better inductor to replace it.
8. Add 2 0.1uf orange drop cap directly on the +/-35v pins.
Don't know why the whole +/-35v has only the Elna 4700uf and a 0.1uf ceramic close to the +/-35v pins for each channel.
9. Bypass the opamp and connect M62429 output directly to the ta2022 input. I know need so much gain and this gives a cleaner sound.
10. Replace the input resistors. I reduce input resistor from 6.8k to 220R using RMG resistor. The 6.8k is use to reduce the normal 2V input a lower level as M62429 can only take max of 1.7V.
I use deq2496 with direct out so output level should be lower than 2v.
11. Replace most of the smd resistors to better type: SUSUMU 0.5% and feedback to more expensive IRC 0.1%
Thats it so far.
I think there are still a few more thing that can be done like replace the caps in the output filter, add a snubber for the PS but don't know the values.
Amazing I did so much with a baby crawling around...
Don't ask me about the improvement, too difficult for me to describe.
Here the inside pic
Attachments
Ooops... Sorry ChuckT I think we cross post. So, you suggest using an extension wire for the MKTs. Where then do I lay them? Let them dangle or lying on the PCB? Not really neat I think.
And oops sorry too to Pano. The Panny question was for the Tweak Kit I ordered for another modding project on the Trends amp.
And oops sorry too to Pano. The Panny question was for the Tweak Kit I ordered for another modding project on the Trends amp.
ChuckT said:How do I mod thee? Let me count the ways.
I mod thee to the depth and breadth and height
1. Change the 6 coupling caps - I use mkt1822
2. Add a 270uf/35v ZL cap to the empty cap hole next to ta2022
3. Replace all the 78/79xx to Motorola MC78/79xxACT. I don't like Fairchild 78xx. The Motorola 78xxACT has better spec.
I could go further and use the Linear type(eg. LT1763), maybe later.
4. Replace various decoupling caps to low esr type.
Elna for Audio -> Nichicon PW 2700uf/35v (what I have on hand at the moment.
Chemicon KY for the +15v, Sanyo oscon for the 5v.
5. Replace the +/-35v rectifier to Fairchild Stealth diode ISL9R860P2.
6. Add a discrete regulator for the +/-35v. I don't know why this wasn't done in the 1st place, even if it didn't sound too bad. I feel better with regulation. I use the simple Zener referenced emitter follower. Don't ask me, I am new to discrete regulator too. Maybe someone can help me to improve this too. I use MJE15030/31, BD179/180 transistors.
Check below for very good info.
http://www.pedjarogic.com/gc/supplies.htm
7. Replace the coil to the 41hz coil that I have on hand. The old coil is far too hot, the 41hz coil is quite a bit cooler but still warm.
I am still looking for better inductor to replace it.
8. Add 2 0.1uf orange drop cap directly on the +/-35v pins.
Don't know why the whole +/-35v has only the Elna 4700uf and a 0.1uf ceramic close to the +/-35v pins for each channel.
9. Bypass the opamp and connect M62429 output directly to the ta2022 input. I know need so much gain and this gives a cleaner sound.
10. Replace the input resistors. I reduce input resistor from 6.8k to 220R using RMG resistor. The 6.8k is use to reduce the normal 2V input a lower level as M62429 can only take max of 1.7V.
I use deq2496 with direct out so output level should be lower than 2v.
11. Replace most of the smd resistors to better type: SUSUMU 0.5% and feedback to more expensive IRC 0.1%
Thats it so far.
I think there are still a few more thing that can be done like replace the caps in the output filter, add a snubber for the PS but don't know the values.
Amazing I did so much with a baby crawling around...
Don't ask me about the improvement, too difficult for me to describe.
Here the inside pic
Meanwhile you cannot realize thats a Poppulse - Call it better
ChuckPulse ...
I will dare a modding attempt soon if the increase really so efficient as you describe.
Expensive is relative. Red Wine Audio Tripath based amps are expensive compared to the Mouse. Bottom line, I needed a reference on how a good Tripath based amplifiers should sound like.
I think it the Poppulse can do it easily. It only lacks the punch at the bottom end. Getting the Trends to sound fuller is another story.
RaZmaTaZ said:
Read my list again, I bypass the opamp, so the corresponding caps are not required.
Nichicon PW 2700uf/35v , just what I have on hand. A higher uf one will be better. Other low impedance caps will be ok too.
Replace with mkt1822 and the quality of the bass will be better (not quantity)
Also I recall replace Elna to Nichicon helps a bit too.
Thanks ChuckT. I will do this, I will change the tank cap to Nichicon 4700uf/35v or 10000uf/35v. Then see how.
If I still have 'itchy backside' (a local saying here), I will then replace the elna input caps to nichicon or rubycons (3.3uf/50v or 10uf/63v or thereabouts.) I know you advise to go with the MKT, but let me learn to do simpler pcb soldering work first.
As for your comments on the Mouse vs Poppulse, it was spot on. The Poppulse does edge the Mouse on the details and clarity. And to think I specifically ordered the Mouse with the Alps.. aargh! Do you think I should change it to a TKD pot?
While the Poppulse detail and clarity is good I think the Trends are better. But the Trends lack the power (at least on my inefficient speakers.)
For the moment, the Mouse sounds very nice and comparable to the Audiolab 8000A.
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