Help please
OK so I tried Mick's mods using 2.2uf caps specified at 100v but 250v actually written on them with 100k resistors.
The chip is the 4310.
The problem is distorted sound on the right channel only at a lowish volume.
I wonder if the caps should be a lower voltage and Mick says make 3 cuts but then only shows 2. Is there another cut somewhere or does he mean the removal of the smd cap is the 3rd cut?
OK so I tried Mick's mods using 2.2uf caps specified at 100v but 250v actually written on them with 100k resistors.
The chip is the 4310.
The problem is distorted sound on the right channel only at a lowish volume.
I wonder if the caps should be a lower voltage and Mick says make 3 cuts but then only shows 2. Is there another cut somewhere or does he mean the removal of the smd cap is the 3rd cut?
I use my PS3 as a cd player all the time (when not using my primary..a Denon 2900) and it does a fine job of playing music. My old PS3 was one of the original models that could play SACD as well and it sounded great, though my 2900 bested it every time.
PS1 Power
I have not been able to find a BOM or a build thread for "A linear regulated power supply unit for the Sony Playstation SCPH100x" that is described on the dogbreath site. Does anyone have knowledge or a link to such material.
I have not been able to find a BOM or a build thread for "A linear regulated power supply unit for the Sony Playstation SCPH100x" that is described on the dogbreath site. Does anyone have knowledge or a link to such material.
Thanks Mick;
As I am not all that confident in my schematic reading skills I was hoping to find something like what's offered in the MyRef-C project. (Simple lists for simple minds like mine) I'll just jump in if that is not available.
I also saw somewhere that someone had used momentary switches for the CD functions. Did you do a pin-out for a system like that. Would also like to replace the stock RCAs with gold parts without the use of jumper wires for use in a case mod. Do you have any advice with that mod?
I completed your full mod with 3.3 caps and 22K resistors - sounds fantastic - very analog.
You might get a kick out of the makeshift control device I'm using till I get a remote.
"Driving the PS1"
As I am not all that confident in my schematic reading skills I was hoping to find something like what's offered in the MyRef-C project. (Simple lists for simple minds like mine) I'll just jump in if that is not available.
I also saw somewhere that someone had used momentary switches for the CD functions. Did you do a pin-out for a system like that. Would also like to replace the stock RCAs with gold parts without the use of jumper wires for use in a case mod. Do you have any advice with that mod?
I completed your full mod with 3.3 caps and 22K resistors - sounds fantastic - very analog.
You might get a kick out of the makeshift control device I'm using till I get a remote.
"Driving the PS1"
Thankyou all for your help my multi-meter has packed up right now but as soon as i get it working or get a new one I will give that a go
Salve a tutti,ho un problema con una PSX SCPH 5502....
Sono andato a regolare il BIAS e LASER ma ho fatto confusione,vorrei sapere come faccio a regolare il GAIN dato che questo modello non ha la regolazione di essa,poi vorrei sapere quali sono i valori per la mia PSX 5502 - KSM-440 ACM.
Grazie!
P.S:Scusate per il mio Inglese ma sto usando il traduttore di Google
Sono andato a regolare il BIAS e LASER ma ho fatto confusione,vorrei sapere come faccio a regolare il GAIN dato che questo modello non ha la regolazione di essa,poi vorrei sapere quali sono i valori per la mia PSX 5502 - KSM-440 ACM.
Grazie!
P.S:Scusate per il mio Inglese ma sto usando il traduttore di Google
Hi, I have a problem with a PSX SCPH 5502 ....
I went to adjust the BIAS LASER and got messed up, I want to know how do I adjust the gain as this model does not have to adjust it, then let me know what are the values for my PSX 5502 - KSM-440 ACM.
Thanks!
PS: Sorry for my English but I'm using the Google translator
I went to adjust the BIAS LASER and got messed up, I want to know how do I adjust the gain as this model does not have to adjust it, then let me know what are the values for my PSX 5502 - KSM-440 ACM.
Thanks!
PS: Sorry for my English but I'm using the Google translator
PSone - the little brother
Hi, I've not posted to this thread for a long time. I have a PS1 as my main CD player in my living room with Micks mods. In my kitchen I have a Tivoli Model 1 FM radio and use a discman to play through it via the aux input. Sound is surprisingly good. the cheap discman however has died. I decided to get a Sony PSone - the tiny PS1 that they bought out late in it's life. It sits fine on the Tivoli, the size is so small.
Q: has anyone any experience of dismantling or tweaking the PSone (i.e NOT the PS1 - I think we have already covered that 🙂 ) . There are six screws in the base, one behind a disclaimer sticker. That frees the lid. What I can't figure out is how to remove the transport ribbon cable from the motherboard. It's very tight and I seemed to be applying too much force to try to remove it. is there a special technique.
The player uses an external 7.5 2 amp supply, which I guess could be replaced with a linear version. The motherboard is much simplified but it is possible to tap into the L & R audio signals. see here for a thread in a sister forum (headfi):
The Sony PSOne SCPH-101 mod thread (a very under-rated CDP) - Head-Fi.org Community
Hi, I've not posted to this thread for a long time. I have a PS1 as my main CD player in my living room with Micks mods. In my kitchen I have a Tivoli Model 1 FM radio and use a discman to play through it via the aux input. Sound is surprisingly good. the cheap discman however has died. I decided to get a Sony PSone - the tiny PS1 that they bought out late in it's life. It sits fine on the Tivoli, the size is so small.
Q: has anyone any experience of dismantling or tweaking the PSone (i.e NOT the PS1 - I think we have already covered that 🙂 ) . There are six screws in the base, one behind a disclaimer sticker. That frees the lid. What I can't figure out is how to remove the transport ribbon cable from the motherboard. It's very tight and I seemed to be applying too much force to try to remove it. is there a special technique.
The player uses an external 7.5 2 amp supply, which I guess could be replaced with a linear version. The motherboard is much simplified but it is possible to tap into the L & R audio signals. see here for a thread in a sister forum (headfi):
The Sony PSOne SCPH-101 mod thread (a very under-rated CDP) - Head-Fi.org Community
Late starter
Just got one of these 100x in the post today. Must say it doesn't sound too bad.
Will be using it for cdp in headphone system.
Really not sure about mods though. Read a lot of this thread
and it seems that too many mods remove the 'magic'.
I'll certainly upgrade the output RCA's. Probably taken from the Sony proprietary port (which will go) as i believe this does not have all the caps in the way. Is that right?
Just got one of these 100x in the post today. Must say it doesn't sound too bad.
Will be using it for cdp in headphone system.
Really not sure about mods though. Read a lot of this thread
and it seems that too many mods remove the 'magic'. I'll certainly upgrade the output RCA's. Probably taken from the Sony proprietary port (which will go) as i believe this does not have all the caps in the way. Is that right?
Last edited:
Just got one of these 100x in the post today. Must say it doesn't sound too bad.
Will be using it for cdp in headphone system.
Really not sure about mods though. Read a lot of this thread
I'll certainly upgrade the output RCA's. Probably taken from the Sony proprietary port (which will go) as i believe this does not have all the caps in the way. Is that right?
I got a couple 1002's several years ago (and another one recently for $20). Was planning on doing some of the mods, but got lazy and have just been playing through the port. Sounds very good to me on my modest system.
One thing I noticed is CDR discs may or may not play on these. Maybe just a tweak is needed? Anyone have problems with this?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
PSone and Tivoli Model 1. It works well, I need to simplify the wiring at the back. think I'll go for a short captive lead, straight to the mobo with a 3.5mm stereo jack . Would also be nice to incorporatethe remote functionality back inside the original case, as I have seen done on PS1's. Currently there is a about a meter of L, R, Composite video cabling tucked away behind
tubebuffer
Here are some pics of the modifications and the tubebuffer I made for the PS1. It is a 1002 with signal taken directly from the DAC. Power supply is modified with new caps and diodes (no linear, not yet 🙂 ). The tubebuffer is a SRPP with russian 6n16.
Here are some pics of the modifications and the tubebuffer I made for the PS1. It is a 1002 with signal taken directly from the DAC. Power supply is modified with new caps and diodes (no linear, not yet 🙂 ). The tubebuffer is a SRPP with russian 6n16.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Adding Screen to the PS1
Hi
I am interested in adding a screen to my modified PS1. Does anyone have a reference to a suitable set up... I don't want to add a full TV or the like, so that I can keep it all light. I am sure that it is somewhere in this (or nearby) thread but I have not found it!
Thanks for the help
George
Hi
I am interested in adding a screen to my modified PS1. Does anyone have a reference to a suitable set up... I don't want to add a full TV or the like, so that I can keep it all light. I am sure that it is somewhere in this (or nearby) thread but I have not found it!
Thanks for the help
George
You can buy 3" or 5" LCD screens. Just use the video out connector on the back of the PS1.
The SCPH-100X has both the A/V Multi Out as well as the Composite Video Out (Yellow RCA Plug).
The A/V Multi Out carries a few different signals: Left Audio, Right Audio, 5V, Composite Video, S-Video, Analog RGB. A small LCD screen is sure to take on of those video signals.
There is a screen Sony made for the small white PlayStation (PSone). It's about 4" 4:3 Aspect LCD. It requires 7.5V. Only problem with that screen is that it only fits the PSone (SCPH-101) not the PS1 (SCPH-1001).
The SCPH-100X has both the A/V Multi Out as well as the Composite Video Out (Yellow RCA Plug).
The A/V Multi Out carries a few different signals: Left Audio, Right Audio, 5V, Composite Video, S-Video, Analog RGB. A small LCD screen is sure to take on of those video signals.
There is a screen Sony made for the small white PlayStation (PSone). It's about 4" 4:3 Aspect LCD. It requires 7.5V. Only problem with that screen is that it only fits the PSone (SCPH-101) not the PS1 (SCPH-1001).
How do you guys reckon these speakers would sound?
**PAIR OF SONY SS-S702AV 3-WAY FLOOR STANDING SPEAKERS* (eBay item 200557332714 end time 01-Jan-11 17:11:04 AEDST) : Electronics
The woofer's are shiny, is that not a bad thing?
**PAIR OF SONY SS-S702AV 3-WAY FLOOR STANDING SPEAKERS* (eBay item 200557332714 end time 01-Jan-11 17:11:04 AEDST) : Electronics
The woofer's are shiny, is that not a bad thing?
Well, it only took me a year to get back to this one. I popped open the hood and checked my laser intensity, bias, and gain settings, all as recommended by Mike. I started by adjusting the laser intensity only. I raised it to 12.3mv (from 11.7mv) and immediately my burned CD-Rs began being read, which they did not at all previously, but I got skipping on my first track, but only on my Taiyo Yuden CD-Rs. Oddly enough, not on tracks 2+. I further increased the laser intensity to 12.7 (from the recommended 11.7mv) and I'm pretty satisfied with the performance. Very, very little skipping on the first track and perfect performance on all subsequent tracks. I'm a bit disappointed in the fact that my Taiyo CD-Rs are not being read as well as my other CD-Rs, I pretty much stuck with TY for all of my CD-R burns in the early part of the decade. Turns out, Verbatim and TDK CD-Rs read easier.