1002 unit owner
First up would like to thank Mick F for sharing his knowlegde with us and to all the others who also contributed to the thread you've all helped me to get one great sounding cd player. This has been a one most informative and interesting threads I've followed .
Heres the result I've reboxed it to match my exsisting rig and separated the power supply,those two changes have really made a big difference. I tryed feet and also a damping setup under it, but I much prefer the sound I'm getting with flat on the bench.When I've bit more experience I'm going to build the psu designed by Mick F but for now I'm happy with sound I'm getting.
If there's anyone in Sydney Australia doing the same project I would like to hear from you .
Paul
First up would like to thank Mick F for sharing his knowlegde with us and to all the others who also contributed to the thread you've all helped me to get one great sounding cd player. This has been a one most informative and interesting threads I've followed .
Heres the result I've reboxed it to match my exsisting rig and separated the power supply,those two changes have really made a big difference. I tryed feet and also a damping setup under it, but I much prefer the sound I'm getting with flat on the bench.When I've bit more experience I'm going to build the psu designed by Mick F but for now I'm happy with sound I'm getting.
If there's anyone in Sydney Australia doing the same project I would like to hear from you .
Paul
Hope this link works for the photos. I tried on my last post but it was to large.
I had a choice to rebox it with the natural look of timber and the benifit of of being easy to work with.
Or to rebox it in black gloss perspex which is a bit more difficult to cut but it would'nt match in well with the rest of my system.
I went for the black gloss perspex I rekon I've made the right choice see what you think Bye Audio Luddite Aka Paul
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13338965
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13339053
I had a choice to rebox it with the natural look of timber and the benifit of of being easy to work with.
Or to rebox it in black gloss perspex which is a bit more difficult to cut but it would'nt match in well with the rest of my system.
I went for the black gloss perspex I rekon I've made the right choice see what you think Bye Audio Luddite Aka Paul
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13338965
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13339053
Very nice!! How did you go about re-boxing it, did you buy it cut to shape or did you have to glue it or what?
A-L, what are you using for the display screen?
Nice job on the box. That acrylic is a pain to work with.
--Buckapound
Nice job on the box. That acrylic is a pain to work with.
--Buckapound
Rebox
fraserrh
Even though I'm a carpenter by trade, the perspex is difficult to cut if your not set up for it ,I just measured it to the size I wanted an had it cut to size it only cost $20 AUD they done it while I waited, Its glued together with ISP weld.on #16 clear medium bodied solvent cement for acrylic,If anyone would like the measurements or construction/wiring photos ,I'd be happy to post them.
Buckapound
Its just an old 7 inch GPS unit I had kicking around in the shed.Set on A/V mode, only problem though It gets a signal reciever hum, Once I've got the track set up I unplug it, I'm looking on a for a 2.5 inch screen that has a 240 v charger,theres plenty out there but they want an arm and a leg, just gotta wait for the right one ebay.
Thanks for complements.
fraserrh
Even though I'm a carpenter by trade, the perspex is difficult to cut if your not set up for it ,I just measured it to the size I wanted an had it cut to size it only cost $20 AUD they done it while I waited, Its glued together with ISP weld.on #16 clear medium bodied solvent cement for acrylic,If anyone would like the measurements or construction/wiring photos ,I'd be happy to post them.
Buckapound
Its just an old 7 inch GPS unit I had kicking around in the shed.Set on A/V mode, only problem though It gets a signal reciever hum, Once I've got the track set up I unplug it, I'm looking on a for a 2.5 inch screen that has a 240 v charger,theres plenty out there but they want an arm and a leg, just gotta wait for the right one ebay.
Thanks for complements.
I have noticed an unlikeable characteristic when using the PS for a CD player. If you play a wide range of notes on many different hz and then just play a certain hz with little or no different hz tones in the backround it makes it louder instead of staying the same volume.
"If anyone would like the measurements or construction/wiring photos ,I'd be happy to post them."
Photos of the construction would be GREAT!
I have one (1) Play station and I want to be sure before I start hacking on it.
Pictures posted here would be very helpful.
And yours looks incredible!
Photos of the construction would be GREAT!
I have one (1) Play station and I want to be sure before I start hacking on it.
Pictures posted here would be very helpful.
And yours looks incredible!
I've had some email about pimping my ps1 thanks for kinds words I'm blown away.
I'll get around to answering them asap.I'm somewhat dyslexic
It can overwhelming trying to responde to email promptly at times please bear with me.I will get around to it.
I'm putting together a list of construction materials and how to photos but this takes me a little longer than most people.
I'll happly reply to all email and posts asap .
Thank you Paul.
I'll get around to answering them asap.I'm somewhat dyslexic
It can overwhelming trying to responde to email promptly at times please bear with me.I will get around to it.
I'm putting together a list of construction materials and how to photos but this takes me a little longer than most people.
I'll happly reply to all email and posts asap .
Thank you Paul.
pimp my ps1 for beginners
The reason I've gone into such a long winded post is because when I 1st started to pimp my ps1 I noticed most of the posts were by advanced DIY guys I didn't want to bother them they had way more technical questions to repond to.I'm sure they would have helped I just didn't want waste their time.So after a lot of trail and error heres the result its basicly a stage one cut and shut job. Hope you like it. and makes things a bit easer for you.
Please excuse my spelling and grammar it can be a real shocker.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13338965
It's fabricated out of 4.5 mm Alcrylic black gloss perspex.(all my measurements are calculated around 4.5 mm)
Glued together with I.S.P Weld.on # 16 clear medium bond solvent cement.
Cutting list
Base cut 1 @ 271 mm x 230 mm (271 mm is your front edge)
Sides cut 2 @ 230 mm x 43 mm
Front cut 1 @ 278 mm x 43 mm
Top cut 1 @ 282 mm x 235 mm
Note the top has a 2 mm overhang this creates a slight shadow line so it doesn't look so boxy.
No need for a back.
A few tips before we get stuck into the construction.
Tip get it cut to size, I'm carpenter by trade its not worth the hassle. It cost me$20 AUD they cut while you wait, man I couldn't do it that cheap. Tip don't remove the outside cling wrap until you've finished glueing.this adhesive is a plastic weld type and can't be removed very ugly. Go easy the perspex it scatches easly if it is a small scratch, car polsih may remove it but do a test on some scrap to test that is ok to use .
Tip use your rca plugs and not your a/v cord if your doing lots of test runs. But definately use it during play back it sounds way better.
pcb = printed circuit board . h,s = heatsheild psu =power supply unit whole shooting match = h,s + remote sensor. + pcb.
Refer to photo link below = RPLB
Construction Method
Use masking tape to hold the base in position while building. Run a bead of glue along one the EDGE of the base and the inside face of the SIDE and butt join together,using a combination square to aline them correctly. Hold in position until glue goes off approx 2 minutes (full set is 24 hrs). Repeat the same process for the front you've now got a corner making it easy to square up ,repeat for last side. RPLB
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13375065
When it's stable run a bead of glue around all inside corners caution don't over do it with the glue.
Remove everything from the orignal box and unclip the uniplug from the psu.Keep the pcb and its h/s and chassis. although the orignal base to ps1 fits in the new box its to high and you wont get lid on the new one so disguard it. RPLB
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13351220
Glue the remote sensor into its socket just a few dabs to hold it in place don't flood it.
Lenght wise the sensors all pretty within a few mm of each other brand wise worse case the chassis will hang out the back a few extra mm its no biggy.
Lightly masking tape the whole shooting match, together makes it easy to work with while you doing your dry runs.
Positioning the whole shooting match.
Whilst looking from the front, place the whole shooting match in the box move it all the way to right hand side of the new box also make sure sensor is in the right spot, the sensor sensor butts up to the inside front so it sits squarely in the box. Theres no need to drill a hole for the sensor to read the remote if you've used the 4.5 mm perspex. . This will also be the final position for the pcb and chassis from which all other measurements are taken, so don't let it move make sure everything is squared up and tape it in position for now.
This photo is taken from the back it shows how it has to sit square in the box.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13363011
Now is a good time raise the laser unit to ts final overall height. We need to do this so we have clearence of approx 5 mm from the top of the box to the underside of the cd..Just lift up laser unit and lay it aside then gentlely unclip it from the pcb .You'll see 3 support posts slip some 4 mm high plastic gromets over the posts replace the laser unit and check that it sitting level .You may need to pack it on 1 or 2 of the posts with some thin flat washers to get it sitting level. Place a straight edge (must be 4.5 mm thick use some of your perspex for this) from one side of the box to the other. The top of the laser unit (not the spindle) should be about 5 mm above the top of the straight edge.
This shot will give you idea of what we are trying to achive.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13385249
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13376633.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13363011
Marking out top for the laser unit.
Remember to take into account the extra 2 mm overhang. Take a measurement from left hand side the box to the centre of the spindle if your've got measurement of 142 mm your on track. Next take a measurement from the front of the box to the centre of the spindle if you've got a measurement of 142 here also your on track, These measuremenst are just a guide your box maybe a mm different to mine. Mask up the area on top of the lid so you can transfer the measurements of these points when mask up a large area this way you jig saw wont mark the perspex . Drill a.pilot hole for your jig saw and cut it out .Tip dont rush the drilling or jig sawing it tends to chip if rushed.RPLB Measure twice cut once.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13391163
Step 1 Use your 142 x 142 guide measurement to get a starting place
Easiest way to find the correct spot for the laser unit is to create a parallel line between the laser unit and the left outside edge, of the lid about 86 mm only a guide for set out. the final cut will be plus 2 mm . You should cut slightly under size you can always file/trim away the excess later if everything lined up correctly. Create a parrallel another line from the front its about 124. Mark it out and cut it to the size of the laser unit and do a dry/test run.
Step 2
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13375494
If every things lined up correctly now cut it to the final size so you ve 2mm clearence around the laser unit this will minimize the vibration transfer though the box and chassis . A little vibration should'nt transfer the lens it reads only 0 and 1 and not viabration like a turntable but as a background noise its can be annoying.
Final set postion of h/s pcb and chassis
Lightly silicon the whole shooting match into position just enough so its secure and easy to cut out if you need to make some fine adjustment or /mods/repairs at a later stage. Silicon is a better option to screws they tend to crack the perspex hold it in postion with masking tape until the silicon goes off.
att'n: Caution go easy with and where you put the silicon it may have to come out one day.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13375494
Setting up so the lid has somewhere to fix to.
Cut up some glue blocks glue them on their flat side flat to the top inside edge of the box in the corners,place some very thin double sided tape on the top of glue blocks and place the lid in position. The benefit here is when you come to do a upgrade or repair all you need do is break the d/s tape seal. Also these no ugly fastenings seen on the outside just nice clean gloss lines.
If you have a look on the finished unit there is a gold screw to the top right of the CD this solves the problem of the stop /start spindle connection from where the lid use to close .
My solution to this problem is teloscopic plunge screw system using the original sprung switch on the pcb as the resistance. Its bit tricky to fabricate but operates smoothly. If want to know how to build one email me I'll email you directions or post a how to. RPLB.
Or you can take the easy way out and just wedge something in there this leaves it jambed on 😀
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13385249
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13377272
Next
Simple cut and shut extension from pcb to psu. Make sure you solder all joins and cover them with srink wrap tubing.
RPLB
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13375199
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13363191
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13351220
Thats it go hook it up to your rig, And make your speakers move some air around.
[
url]http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13385988[/url]
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...&friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=3397798
The reason I've gone into such a long winded post is because when I 1st started to pimp my ps1 I noticed most of the posts were by advanced DIY guys I didn't want to bother them they had way more technical questions to repond to.I'm sure they would have helped I just didn't want waste their time.So after a lot of trail and error heres the result its basicly a stage one cut and shut job. Hope you like it. and makes things a bit easer for you.
Please excuse my spelling and grammar it can be a real shocker.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13338965
It's fabricated out of 4.5 mm Alcrylic black gloss perspex.(all my measurements are calculated around 4.5 mm)
Glued together with I.S.P Weld.on # 16 clear medium bond solvent cement.
Cutting list
Base cut 1 @ 271 mm x 230 mm (271 mm is your front edge)
Sides cut 2 @ 230 mm x 43 mm
Front cut 1 @ 278 mm x 43 mm
Top cut 1 @ 282 mm x 235 mm
Note the top has a 2 mm overhang this creates a slight shadow line so it doesn't look so boxy.
No need for a back.
A few tips before we get stuck into the construction.
Tip get it cut to size, I'm carpenter by trade its not worth the hassle. It cost me$20 AUD they cut while you wait, man I couldn't do it that cheap. Tip don't remove the outside cling wrap until you've finished glueing.this adhesive is a plastic weld type and can't be removed very ugly. Go easy the perspex it scatches easly if it is a small scratch, car polsih may remove it but do a test on some scrap to test that is ok to use .
Tip use your rca plugs and not your a/v cord if your doing lots of test runs. But definately use it during play back it sounds way better.
pcb = printed circuit board . h,s = heatsheild psu =power supply unit whole shooting match = h,s + remote sensor. + pcb.
Refer to photo link below = RPLB
Construction Method
Use masking tape to hold the base in position while building. Run a bead of glue along one the EDGE of the base and the inside face of the SIDE and butt join together,using a combination square to aline them correctly. Hold in position until glue goes off approx 2 minutes (full set is 24 hrs). Repeat the same process for the front you've now got a corner making it easy to square up ,repeat for last side. RPLB
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13375065
When it's stable run a bead of glue around all inside corners caution don't over do it with the glue.
Remove everything from the orignal box and unclip the uniplug from the psu.Keep the pcb and its h/s and chassis. although the orignal base to ps1 fits in the new box its to high and you wont get lid on the new one so disguard it. RPLB
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13351220
Glue the remote sensor into its socket just a few dabs to hold it in place don't flood it.
Lenght wise the sensors all pretty within a few mm of each other brand wise worse case the chassis will hang out the back a few extra mm its no biggy.
Lightly masking tape the whole shooting match, together makes it easy to work with while you doing your dry runs.
Positioning the whole shooting match.
Whilst looking from the front, place the whole shooting match in the box move it all the way to right hand side of the new box also make sure sensor is in the right spot, the sensor sensor butts up to the inside front so it sits squarely in the box. Theres no need to drill a hole for the sensor to read the remote if you've used the 4.5 mm perspex. . This will also be the final position for the pcb and chassis from which all other measurements are taken, so don't let it move make sure everything is squared up and tape it in position for now.
This photo is taken from the back it shows how it has to sit square in the box.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13363011
Now is a good time raise the laser unit to ts final overall height. We need to do this so we have clearence of approx 5 mm from the top of the box to the underside of the cd..Just lift up laser unit and lay it aside then gentlely unclip it from the pcb .You'll see 3 support posts slip some 4 mm high plastic gromets over the posts replace the laser unit and check that it sitting level .You may need to pack it on 1 or 2 of the posts with some thin flat washers to get it sitting level. Place a straight edge (must be 4.5 mm thick use some of your perspex for this) from one side of the box to the other. The top of the laser unit (not the spindle) should be about 5 mm above the top of the straight edge.
This shot will give you idea of what we are trying to achive.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13385249
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13376633.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13363011
Marking out top for the laser unit.
Remember to take into account the extra 2 mm overhang. Take a measurement from left hand side the box to the centre of the spindle if your've got measurement of 142 mm your on track. Next take a measurement from the front of the box to the centre of the spindle if you've got a measurement of 142 here also your on track, These measuremenst are just a guide your box maybe a mm different to mine. Mask up the area on top of the lid so you can transfer the measurements of these points when mask up a large area this way you jig saw wont mark the perspex . Drill a.pilot hole for your jig saw and cut it out .Tip dont rush the drilling or jig sawing it tends to chip if rushed.RPLB Measure twice cut once.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13391163
Step 1 Use your 142 x 142 guide measurement to get a starting place
Easiest way to find the correct spot for the laser unit is to create a parallel line between the laser unit and the left outside edge, of the lid about 86 mm only a guide for set out. the final cut will be plus 2 mm . You should cut slightly under size you can always file/trim away the excess later if everything lined up correctly. Create a parrallel another line from the front its about 124. Mark it out and cut it to the size of the laser unit and do a dry/test run.
Step 2
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13375494
If every things lined up correctly now cut it to the final size so you ve 2mm clearence around the laser unit this will minimize the vibration transfer though the box and chassis . A little vibration should'nt transfer the lens it reads only 0 and 1 and not viabration like a turntable but as a background noise its can be annoying.
Final set postion of h/s pcb and chassis
Lightly silicon the whole shooting match into position just enough so its secure and easy to cut out if you need to make some fine adjustment or /mods/repairs at a later stage. Silicon is a better option to screws they tend to crack the perspex hold it in postion with masking tape until the silicon goes off.
att'n: Caution go easy with and where you put the silicon it may have to come out one day.
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13375494
Setting up so the lid has somewhere to fix to.
Cut up some glue blocks glue them on their flat side flat to the top inside edge of the box in the corners,place some very thin double sided tape on the top of glue blocks and place the lid in position. The benefit here is when you come to do a upgrade or repair all you need do is break the d/s tape seal. Also these no ugly fastenings seen on the outside just nice clean gloss lines.
If you have a look on the finished unit there is a gold screw to the top right of the CD this solves the problem of the stop /start spindle connection from where the lid use to close .
My solution to this problem is teloscopic plunge screw system using the original sprung switch on the pcb as the resistance. Its bit tricky to fabricate but operates smoothly. If want to know how to build one email me I'll email you directions or post a how to. RPLB.
Or you can take the easy way out and just wedge something in there this leaves it jambed on 😀
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13385249
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13377272
Next
Simple cut and shut extension from pcb to psu. Make sure you solder all joins and cover them with srink wrap tubing.
RPLB
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13375199
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13363191
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13351220
Thats it go hook it up to your rig, And make your speakers move some air around.
[
url]http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=viewImage&friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=13385988[/url]
http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/ind...&friendID=307794803&albumID=0&imageID=3397798
wow, great post AL, some inspiration for the rest of us beige box users!
thats a great walk through and the photos really help to bring it all into context
looking good!
really appreciated!!!
😎
thats a great walk through and the photos really help to bring it all into context
looking good!
really appreciated!!!
😎
WOW!
I was going to be happy with just pictures.
Sorry to make you go through so much but I know I appreciate it.
Mine will soon undergo surgery.
I was going to be happy with just pictures.
Sorry to make you go through so much but I know I appreciate it.
Mine will soon undergo surgery.
Audio Luddite,
Thanks for the detailed write-up and photos. I suspect we'll be seeing more Perspex encased Playstations in the near future on this thread.
Thanks for the detailed write-up and photos. I suspect we'll be seeing more Perspex encased Playstations in the near future on this thread.
Thank you for the kind words.
When I put the guide together,I tried to put myself in the position of someone who had no little expierence working with tools.
I wish someone would do the same for removing the caps as I've zero idea when it comes electronic side of it apart from a simple cut and shut , all the posts Ive seen talk in electronic shorthand eg: for advanced DIYers or electronic technicians.
I need a post for DIYers who cant read an electronic shcematic just simple pictures detailing desolder here run wire from A to B.
Hope someone can help thanks Paul. In other words cap removal for dumbasses. .😀
When I put the guide together,I tried to put myself in the position of someone who had no little expierence working with tools.
I wish someone would do the same for removing the caps as I've zero idea when it comes electronic side of it apart from a simple cut and shut , all the posts Ive seen talk in electronic shorthand eg: for advanced DIYers or electronic technicians.
I need a post for DIYers who cant read an electronic shcematic just simple pictures detailing desolder here run wire from A to B.
Hope someone can help thanks Paul. In other words cap removal for dumbasses. .😀
ATTN: Puffin
@puffin
if you see this message, could you contact me here?
or email me, email is: quaddytweeder "at" yahoo dot co dot uk
looking to pay to get some PS1 mods if you are up for it.
cheers chap.
@puffin
if you see this message, could you contact me here?
or email me, email is: quaddytweeder "at" yahoo dot co dot uk
looking to pay to get some PS1 mods if you are up for it.
cheers chap.
Need to clarify a few things before i start ruining my PS:
Is it ok to rip out all the actual jacks on the back of the board; RCA, AV etc?
Is it ok to use bipolar caps as DC blockers when going straight from lines 15 and 16 of the DAC?
I am running into a valve preamp, the XS 708B, which uses 0.1uF 50V input caps at the moment- would i be better off changing these to a higher rating as well as the PS ones; or is there a way i could use just 1 pair of caps in the signal path? Could i not have any DC caps in the PS and just have massive ones in the preamp / have big ones in the PS and none in the preamp? There's plenty room in the pre so i'd prefer to do that...
Is it ok to rip out all the actual jacks on the back of the board; RCA, AV etc?
Is it ok to use bipolar caps as DC blockers when going straight from lines 15 and 16 of the DAC?
I am running into a valve preamp, the XS 708B, which uses 0.1uF 50V input caps at the moment- would i be better off changing these to a higher rating as well as the PS ones; or is there a way i could use just 1 pair of caps in the signal path? Could i not have any DC caps in the PS and just have massive ones in the preamp / have big ones in the PS and none in the preamp? There's plenty room in the pre so i'd prefer to do that...
Yep 🙂 , that's exactly what I did. Stripped the board down to it's bare essentials so it would fit in my case.fraserh said:
Also, bi-polar are perfectly OK as most 'audiophile' blocking caps are film/foil types... although some have a preference on which way round gives better sound😉
You only need one set in there but it depends on where the others are. If the volume control is after the input caps on your pre-amp / amp then you are OK to remove them. If the volume pot is the first thing at the input then leave the caps in the PS1 or you will get DC through the pot... not nice!
Have fun😀
To Clarify
If you are using capacitors that are polarised, at least in the case of the playstation, the positive leg of the capacitor must be the closest to the DAC chip. This is because this DAC has a 2.5v DC offset at the output.
If you are using capacitors that are polarised, at least in the case of the playstation, the positive leg of the capacitor must be the closest to the DAC chip. This is because this DAC has a 2.5v DC offset at the output.