Common, you are talking to an egg yoke, a London Cheapside rebel would say he's a joker.
And he's a power hungry Babo.
No room to add a bit of cooling surface at the posterior of the heatsink bricks?
And he's a power hungry Babo.
No room to add a bit of cooling surface at the posterior of the heatsink bricks?
jacco vermeulen said:Common, you are talking to an egg yoke, a London Cheapside rebel would say he's a joker.
And he's a power hungry Babo.
No room to add a bit of cooling surface at the posterior of the heatsink bricks?
Possibly, it depends a little on how I decide to build the back of the cabinets. I'll have to give this some thought. After all, I have to put something on the back, no reason why it shouldn't help with the heat problem....
nicoch46 said:
This is harder... Part of the design philosophy is to make the amps more attractive so that my wife will let me keep them in the living room, which is the reason for using hardwood instead of aluminium. Also, the heatsinks were already pretty expensive, and buying others isn't really in the cards.
Maybe I'll just learn to like 56C....
Cheers
Nigel
njepitt said:
Just for fun, try pushing it to the max. needed output. If nothing goes way above 56C, you just might like 56C
Magura 🙂
OK 😉
you can add in place mosfert washers e copper /alu bar to helps a bit (with thermal paste )
you can add in place mosfert washers e copper /alu bar to helps a bit (with thermal paste )
nicoch46 said:
Sorry, but I am not sure where you are suggesting the washers/bar... The base of the heatsinks is thick (about 1cm) so I don't think a copper heatspreader between the heatsinks and mosfets would help much (or am I mistaken???), and a alum bar on the other side (which people sometimes recommend, apparently) complicates things a bit with the thermistors, which I presently have touching the mosfets. Or did I misunderstand your suggestion?
Cheers
Nigel
Babowana said:
Yes, I wondered about that... How much performance do you think I would lose? (Of course I can always just try it and see, I suppose...)
Nigel
a plate a copper under mosfet helps because is much faster to extract the hot and distribute better long the heatsink
but I speak on the other side ie change the washers for a copper bar 🙂
lower a bit the bias can helps 😀
or a fan at 5v for hot days
but I speak on the other side ie change the washers for a copper bar 🙂
lower a bit the bias can helps 😀
or a fan at 5v for hot days
njepitt said:
No idea.
Taste of the sound depends on personal preference, and the great sound could be still there with the reduced bias current . . . on my experience . . .
>>🙂<<
I thought I'd post an update. I have been listening to the F5 for several days now, without altering the bias, and it sounds great. I have decided that 56C is OK at least for the time being. As is visible in the photos I am attaching below, there is space to put more heatsinks in, once I can decide on how to do without spoiling the look of the amps, so I may do this at some later date - we will see.
I am considering a couple of tweaks: a thermistor between signal and safety earth (discussed earlier inthe thread but not done yet), and caps on the rectifier bridges to bring the noise floor (even further) down. (Anyone have a recommended value for the caps? I understand I can use one for each bridge across the AC inputs (right?) and I read somewhere on these forums that about 1 nF should be OK - I presume ceramic?) None of this is a major priority, though, as the sound is already excellent. I think this is by far the best of the projects I've done so far - many thanks to everyone who helped out, and of course special thanks to Nelson for making such a great design available to us.
Cheers
Nigel
I am considering a couple of tweaks: a thermistor between signal and safety earth (discussed earlier inthe thread but not done yet), and caps on the rectifier bridges to bring the noise floor (even further) down. (Anyone have a recommended value for the caps? I understand I can use one for each bridge across the AC inputs (right?) and I read somewhere on these forums that about 1 nF should be OK - I presume ceramic?) None of this is a major priority, though, as the sound is already excellent. I think this is by far the best of the projects I've done so far - many thanks to everyone who helped out, and of course special thanks to Nelson for making such a great design available to us.
Cheers
Nigel
Attachments
njepitt said:
On my F4, I used some small CPU heatsinks glued on with artic silver thermal epoxy.
nicoch46 said:
Thanks. I was thinking of something like that, yes, only I haven't found the "right" type of thing yet... No hurry really - there is no high voltage in the amps since the PSU is separate, so there is no real dangere to leaving them open for the time being.
Tea-Bag said:
I actually wondered about buying two shorter lengths of the same heatsink and gluing those on the back. This would still leave a smaller space to be covered with a grid or screen of some sort. It would guarantee a nice visual look, unfortunately it's not cheap....
I'll have to look and see if Mouser sell the epoxy you mention.
Cheers
Nigel
nicoch46 said:
I was thinking something a little more, well, conservative..... 😉
Besides, with this wouldn't I need one for each mosfet to really work well??
Hi Njepitt,
I like your F5 look very much.
I believe that you have very good sense of design and diy.
Impressed
Enjoy listening!
>🙂<
I like your F5 look very much.
I believe that you have very good sense of design and diy.
Impressed
Enjoy listening!
>🙂<
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