Unless there are traces on the side of the board with the missing pad, they're not important. If the trace from the resistor to the leg of the FET is OK on the bottom of the board, you don't need to repair anything.
the bottom one is missing also. so should i bridge a connection between the fet and the resistor nearest to the leg?
In this case, yes but you can't blindly make connections to the nearest resistor if you're not sure if they're supposed to be connected.
alright i got all the solder pas tuff squared away, i found the trace on the top side of the board and went ahead an bridges a solid piece of copper wire to it.
amp powers up fine.
issue now is, amp makes sound, but doesnt get loud, i literally have to turn the amp gain all the way up to get any sound out of it. on top of that, it has a constant hum.
i took voltage readings in AC and really didn't get anything over 1-2 volts out of of the speaker outputs.
i replaced all irfz44n's and the bank of 80v 2200uf caps, what could be the issue? sound isn't really distorted, i can hear a clear good sound from the amp, but lacks power, and has a constant hum
amp powers up fine.
issue now is, amp makes sound, but doesnt get loud, i literally have to turn the amp gain all the way up to get any sound out of it. on top of that, it has a constant hum.
i took voltage readings in AC and really didn't get anything over 1-2 volts out of of the speaker outputs.
i replaced all irfz44n's and the bank of 80v 2200uf caps, what could be the issue? sound isn't really distorted, i can hear a clear good sound from the amp, but lacks power, and has a constant hum
Q124 and 125 won't make the audio low.
Did you see a big difference when you switched from low to high sensitivity?
Did you measure the AC voltage at the back of the RCA jacks with a sine wave input at full volume?
What is the resistance between the RCA shield and the negative speaker terminal with no RCAs plugged in?
Did you see a big difference when you switched from low to high sensitivity?
Did you measure the AC voltage at the back of the RCA jacks with a sine wave input at full volume?
What is the resistance between the RCA shield and the negative speaker terminal with no RCAs plugged in?
when switched to the 2volt and above range, it has even less output, and ill take a measurement @ the rca shields later today. just FYI, this amp was dropped on the rca jack side of the amplifier, it broke two solder joints loose at the board. i re soldered down to the board.
also when hooked to his rcas of his stereo the amp had a faint hum, i dismissed it as ground loop noise, the head unit was a pioneer. but then i decided to pull my car up, and hook my rcas up to the amp while it was still hooked up in his car, it mad zero music and nothing but a loud hum, not one faint note of music. i find this odd, my rcas and hu work perfectly on my set up in my vehicle
also when hooked to his rcas of his stereo the amp had a faint hum, i dismissed it as ground loop noise, the head unit was a pioneer. but then i decided to pull my car up, and hook my rcas up to the amp while it was still hooked up in his car, it mad zero music and nothing but a loud hum, not one faint note of music. i find this odd, my rcas and hu work perfectly on my set up in my vehicle
Do you read 0 ohms between one end of R101 and the RCA shields?
Do you read 0 ohms from the negative speaker terminal to the other end of R101?
Do you read 0 ohms from the negative speaker terminal to the other end of R101?
from one end of the resistor to shields of rcas(measurement taken from front side of rca's and entrance of r101 resitor) got a "no reading" BUT from back side of the rcas(meaning the pin running into the board) i get 57k ohms and climbing.
on negative terminal to resistor i get 0 ohms.
as previously stated, amp appears to have been dropped on the rcas, as the end cap is dented there, and also rcas had come loose from the board and i had to re solder them.
on negative terminal to resistor i get 0 ohms.
as previously stated, amp appears to have been dropped on the rcas, as the end cap is dented there, and also rcas had come loose from the board and i had to re solder them.
It sounds like the ground pin for the RCAs is broken or the trace is broken. Remove the RCA jacks and see if you can determine where the problem is.
For a quick, temporary fix, you can solder a jumper wire from the metal tab at the top of the RCA jacks (inside the amp) to the resistor (the end not connected to the speaker terminal).
In the future, instead of saying that you get no reading, say that you have an open circuit, infinite resistance, no continuity or the meter displayed OL (if that's what your meter reads with the probes open). No reading would mean that the meter's display went blank.
For a quick, temporary fix, you can solder a jumper wire from the metal tab at the top of the RCA jacks (inside the amp) to the resistor (the end not connected to the speaker terminal).
In the future, instead of saying that you get no reading, say that you have an open circuit, infinite resistance, no continuity or the meter displayed OL (if that's what your meter reads with the probes open). No reading would mean that the meter's display went blank.
yeah they were bad, i pulled them from the board and they fell apart, i now have readings in resistance on the rcas to the resistor.
Let me know if you can not get new RCA's from the manufacturer.
I have a bucket full of them. One of them might fit.
Post a photo of them.
I have a bucket full of them. One of them might fit.
Post a photo of them.
Bringing this forum back from the grave, I now own the amp I repaired in this post. Buddy said it made smoke but kept playing. Took a look inside and found most of the 80v 2200uf caps the be bad AGAIN. Any idea what would be causing this issue. He hasn't used the amp in quite sometime so no telling what he did.
It's likely that either the secondary power supply inductor or the output inductors or both are shorted, possibly intermittently.
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