I like the build, looks almost like a satellite more than diy audio. My projects sometimes wind up looking like spare parts spilled onto a circuit board.
+1 for the Sikorel, Mundorf are also great for dac, pre amp filter caps.
hi phase
yes it looks like a satellite, but i dont care . Nevertheless i use mainly the RCA - Spdif from the previous device (mutec mc3+)
Yes the mundorf are grate - i use it in my Preamp and power amp - e.g. Accuphase P300V since one year in operation - the big one --> 100V 40000µF (120 euro !!one)
That's how I picture my builds coming out at the beginning, very professional, but then along the way, something happens, and they wind up looking like kids made them...
Hi Phase
thanks for the roses
Step 1 is finished
Hi
first of all i am really a noob. this is my first audio project. After 25 without school i have to restart all my things in my head...
After more changes than planned the first step is for me done.
i want to keep the time and cost as low as possible.
for every hint i am really happy
I changed the 4x bigger Caps becuae the device was bought second hand i recognize that the owner use it all day long and since 5 month for TV and music and DVD,etc....so i decided to chnage the KMG, Jamocin 4700µF and the smal 470µ from jamicon. The 60pcs green suncon and red KMG i keep.
XLR connectors i use a similar product from Neutrik. the gold material is little big thicker and ith weight the same (7g the old and 7g the new)
The RCA connectors i don not change - i prefere xlr
the housing was really terrible to build because the top deck of the DAC has some aluminium fins in the inner side.
The SPDIF
now i go directly to SPDIF not to USB because i am using the mutec as DDC. up to now i have the best result with this device - its always better on every DAC i tested.
To change the SPDIF connector i have to throw out the toslink - and i have to connect with some cable directly on the pcb - maybe in the next step - step 2
finally i connect all foild covers to ground.
bye
chris
Hi
first of all i am really a noob. this is my first audio project. After 25 without school i have to restart all my things in my head...
After more changes than planned the first step is for me done.
i want to keep the time and cost as low as possible.
for every hint i am really happy
I changed the 4x bigger Caps becuae the device was bought second hand i recognize that the owner use it all day long and since 5 month for TV and music and DVD,etc....so i decided to chnage the KMG, Jamocin 4700µF and the smal 470µ from jamicon. The 60pcs green suncon and red KMG i keep.
XLR connectors i use a similar product from Neutrik. the gold material is little big thicker and ith weight the same (7g the old and 7g the new)
The RCA connectors i don not change - i prefere xlr
the housing was really terrible to build because the top deck of the DAC has some aluminium fins in the inner side.
The SPDIF
now i go directly to SPDIF not to USB because i am using the mutec as DDC. up to now i have the best result with this device - its always better on every DAC i tested.
To change the SPDIF connector i have to throw out the toslink - and i have to connect with some cable directly on the pcb - maybe in the next step - step 2
finally i connect all foild covers to ground.
bye
chris
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sound result
Hi agian
the "technical" part i try to explain the post before.
Sound check:
in comparison to my Gustard A20H and the Brookly DAC its better than before.
in the origianl version of the Teac UD301 i really like his timing and the sound of the BB1795 or OPANE5532. What i miss was more detail, anlitical and more "freshness".
So now its more i like. also the room gets more deeper and the actors are standing more stable.
Hi agian
the "technical" part i try to explain the post before.
Sound check:
in comparison to my Gustard A20H and the Brookly DAC its better than before.
in the origianl version of the Teac UD301 i really like his timing and the sound of the BB1795 or OPANE5532. What i miss was more detail, anlitical and more "freshness".
So now its more i like. also the room gets more deeper and the actors are standing more stable.
Glad to hear it's better now. I'll bet the numbers are the same, but better parts nearly always perform better.
Have you considered snubber capacitors/resistor on the rectifier diodes?
Also, if you can identify the capacitors that decouple the digital supplies, the solid polymer capacitors work great there. I am not sure if the supplies are shared between analog and digital on that unit however, in which case it will be better to leave it.
Also, if any solid polymer capacitors are used, the small ceramic caps will need to go, since they can resonate with the new parts.
Have you considered snubber capacitors/resistor on the rectifier diodes?
Also, if you can identify the capacitors that decouple the digital supplies, the solid polymer capacitors work great there. I am not sure if the supplies are shared between analog and digital on that unit however, in which case it will be better to leave it.
Also, if any solid polymer capacitors are used, the small ceramic caps will need to go, since they can resonate with the new parts.
Hi phase
Whats a snubber cap?
No, i did no additionally changes now.
In a german forum i get the advice to move the toroidal transformer 90° away because of lackage where the cables come out . he prefere for digital circuits EI trafos or put the trafo out of the DAC. Also the foil over the cable are not always good he mentioned- e.g. over the protection housing i got some peaks! - so the interference of the trafo goes over the foil to the cable where the USB case is???!!!
look at that, i made some measurements:
Whats a snubber cap?
No, i did no additionally changes now.
In a german forum i get the advice to move the toroidal transformer 90° away because of lackage where the cables come out . he prefere for digital circuits EI trafos or put the trafo out of the DAC. Also the foil over the cable are not always good he mentioned- e.g. over the protection housing i got some peaks! - so the interference of the trafo goes over the foil to the cable where the USB case is???!!!
look at that, i made some measurements:
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Last edited:
This should get you started with the diode snubber thing:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/powe...rstand-tnt-audio-web-page-about-snubbers.html
The second post has a link that would be good to read as well...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/powe...rstand-tnt-audio-web-page-about-snubbers.html
The second post has a link that would be good to read as well...
Shielding is all about slots and seams, any slot in shielding can make matters worse not better as they can act as a waveguide.
yes i think so, you are right.
but it sounds better, never the less i have to try out without shielding once again.
with one device its not easy to compare.
Try to make wires that are connect to yours copper shields shorter and compact.Or u can tray connect shields directly to chaisis.yes i think so, you are right.
but it sounds better, never the less i have to try out without shielding once again.
with one device its not easy to compare.
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