Panomaniac,
My brother owns the largest printing company in New Zealand. So yes, printing and the materials for the panel speakers are easy to get.
Ziggy,
I have built the frames ready for the large panels. At this point i feel the mounting will be quite hard. With the weight of the panels on the exciters. I assume the exciters voice coil will not stay 100% in line once mounted. I may need to attach the panel at the top of my frame to stop the sag.
Isolating the mounts wont be to much of a problem. I will use 2mm rubber double sided tape between the the back mount, a timber spacer, and the back of the exciter. Attached is a quick example.
I have a few more days of painting and will post pics soon.
Cheers
Optic
My brother owns the largest printing company in New Zealand. So yes, printing and the materials for the panel speakers are easy to get.
Ziggy,
I have built the frames ready for the large panels. At this point i feel the mounting will be quite hard. With the weight of the panels on the exciters. I assume the exciters voice coil will not stay 100% in line once mounted. I may need to attach the panel at the top of my frame to stop the sag.
Isolating the mounts wont be to much of a problem. I will use 2mm rubber double sided tape between the the back mount, a timber spacer, and the back of the exciter. Attached is a quick example.
I have a few more days of painting and will post pics soon.
Cheers
Optic
Attachments
Optic, be aware from here on in. I have thought about this long and hard and have not convinced myself that I have the answers.
Your panel will need to be held to it's frame by all four corners (including the top - most importantly!)and probably two sides as well. What to use?.........read on>>>>
There was a link from someone a while back on ''grounding'' the exciters - an article by TYMPHANY I think?(it is important that you read this).
Here they use a silicone rubber to firstly apply to the exciter and then position the backing plate on to the back of the exciter, creating a compliant coupling for the actual exciter's magnet which was previously moving back and forth in it's ''free mounting'' method(not really ideal for long term).
I think this method will ensure that any drop in panel level due to gravity will be taken up by the elasticity of the panel mounting and exciter backing material(which is the same).
To me, this would suggest that the panel is firstly mounted to the frame with this silicone rubber substance, then the whole assembly placed face down on the floor.
Then,the back of each exciter receives a blob of the same silicone and the holding rod or suspension bar is secured to the back of all the exciters .
This then makes contact with the exciter, gluing it to the suspension bar, brace or whatever you'd like to call it.
In theory, when everything is dry, lifting up the panel in it's vertical position, any vertical drop of the panel itself and the attached exciters,due to gravity,will do so EQUALLY due to the silicone elasticity of the panel coupling and the exciter/brace coupling if you know what I mean?
I am open to other's thoughts on this.
NXT have mentioned that leaving the exciters ''free'' (not grounded) will eventually cause ''voice coil creep''. No need to guess what that means
Your panel will need to be held to it's frame by all four corners (including the top - most importantly!)and probably two sides as well. What to use?.........read on>>>>
There was a link from someone a while back on ''grounding'' the exciters - an article by TYMPHANY I think?(it is important that you read this).
Here they use a silicone rubber to firstly apply to the exciter and then position the backing plate on to the back of the exciter, creating a compliant coupling for the actual exciter's magnet which was previously moving back and forth in it's ''free mounting'' method(not really ideal for long term).
I think this method will ensure that any drop in panel level due to gravity will be taken up by the elasticity of the panel mounting and exciter backing material(which is the same).
To me, this would suggest that the panel is firstly mounted to the frame with this silicone rubber substance, then the whole assembly placed face down on the floor.
Then,the back of each exciter receives a blob of the same silicone and the holding rod or suspension bar is secured to the back of all the exciters .
This then makes contact with the exciter, gluing it to the suspension bar, brace or whatever you'd like to call it.
In theory, when everything is dry, lifting up the panel in it's vertical position, any vertical drop of the panel itself and the attached exciters,due to gravity,will do so EQUALLY due to the silicone elasticity of the panel coupling and the exciter/brace coupling if you know what I mean?
I am open to other's thoughts on this.
NXT have mentioned that leaving the exciters ''free'' (not grounded) will eventually cause ''voice coil creep''. No need to guess what that means
Well, looks like it's solid state amplification all the way from here on 
!!!
These black monsters are absolutely merciless at revealing what's down the chain before them
I breadboarded a new 6SL7/845/845/ S.E. valve amplifier that has lots of gain but only 4 watts of power output (it's a low voltage version which sounds superb and very linear at this voltage - 430 plate volts).
I am also using a modified Sony Playstation as my C.D. player(output from DAC is fed directly to large polypropylene caps and then to output transformers - microphone input type - wow!....what a sound!!).
What the panels revealed is that even with a high level signal(or normal level for that matter) in to the amp, distortion raised it's ugly head very quickly as any attempt to raise volume level resulted in a typical and noticeable increase in distortion.I have noticed this with horns as well and the amplifier is functioning perfectly.I recall this with a 300b amplifier in the past also.
This is most likely due to the low output power and the fact that valves are valves - they have their benefits and their weaknesses
. I seem to have developed a sixth sense for distortion lately??
Alternating between horns and the NXT panels,I have discovered that solid state can sound every bit as transparent, revealing and musical as the'' infamous single ended triode brigade''. I guess that some people (myself included) will never be convinced that this is possible - but here I am, stunned and scratching my head, wondering why I ever bothered with the ''lit up bottles bunch''.
Up until now I have been and DEFINATELY STILL AM using the Pioneer VSX-LX70 receiver and have marvelled at the amazing sound produced. I know this receiver got good reviews around the globe, but I never took it to be a serious amplifier for 2 channel audio (far from audiophile calibre - that's for sure ).
It's something special IMHO and Pioneer have really done their homework on the amplifier circuitry, using quality parts, specially designed, discrete mosfet amplification stages etc.
There will be many out there who will disregard my claims as a joke, but I don't care. The quality of sound and the total experience in a musical sense is intense to say the least.
I look forward to each listening session with pleasure and anticipation!
!!!These black monsters are absolutely merciless at revealing what's down the chain before them
I breadboarded a new 6SL7/845/845/ S.E. valve amplifier that has lots of gain but only 4 watts of power output (it's a low voltage version which sounds superb and very linear at this voltage - 430 plate volts).
I am also using a modified Sony Playstation as my C.D. player(output from DAC is fed directly to large polypropylene caps and then to output transformers - microphone input type - wow!....what a sound!!).
What the panels revealed is that even with a high level signal(or normal level for that matter) in to the amp, distortion raised it's ugly head very quickly as any attempt to raise volume level resulted in a typical and noticeable increase in distortion.I have noticed this with horns as well and the amplifier is functioning perfectly.I recall this with a 300b amplifier in the past also.
This is most likely due to the low output power and the fact that valves are valves - they have their benefits and their weaknesses
. I seem to have developed a sixth sense for distortion lately??Alternating between horns and the NXT panels,I have discovered that solid state can sound every bit as transparent, revealing and musical as the'' infamous single ended triode brigade''. I guess that some people (myself included) will never be convinced that this is possible - but here I am, stunned and scratching my head, wondering why I ever bothered with the ''lit up bottles bunch''.
Up until now I have been and DEFINATELY STILL AM using the Pioneer VSX-LX70 receiver and have marvelled at the amazing sound produced. I know this receiver got good reviews around the globe, but I never took it to be a serious amplifier for 2 channel audio (far from audiophile calibre - that's for sure
). It's something special IMHO and Pioneer have really done their homework on the amplifier circuitry, using quality parts, specially designed, discrete mosfet amplification stages etc.
There will be many out there who will disregard my claims as a joke, but I don't care. The quality of sound and the total experience in a musical sense is intense to say the least.
I look forward to each listening session with pleasure and anticipation!
Interesting Ziggy.
Can you estimate the average power levels that your panels require at the point you start to hear the valve amps running out of steam? Also what load does the present panel configuration present to the amplifier?
This might help point the way to something tailored specifically for the "Ziggyplanars" - if you were interested in such a project.
Oh and (tongue firmly in cheek here), given some of your statements about amplifiers and speaker tech, I'd avoid posting anything on April 1
Cheers,
Ed
Can you estimate the average power levels that your panels require at the point you start to hear the valve amps running out of steam? Also what load does the present panel configuration present to the amplifier?
This might help point the way to something tailored specifically for the "Ziggyplanars" - if you were interested in such a project.
Oh and (tongue firmly in cheek here), given some of your statements about amplifiers and speaker tech, I'd avoid posting anything on April 1
Cheers,
Ed
For the U.S. based DIY I have made a list of parts. Could you verify that this is correct? Do we need to get the impedence matching transformers for the SoundPads as well? If so how many? One for each Pad? TIA
Dayton DAEX25 Sound Exciter
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psh...tnumber=300-375
Gatorboard Sheet
http://tri-dee.com/gatorboard.htm
? Goldwood GT-1188 Piezo Horn Driver (to cannibalize the impedance matching transformer.)
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psh...tnumber=270-082
Dayton DAEX25 Sound Exciter
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psh...tnumber=300-375
Gatorboard Sheet
http://tri-dee.com/gatorboard.htm
? Goldwood GT-1188 Piezo Horn Driver (to cannibalize the impedance matching transformer.)
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psh...tnumber=270-082
greenvalve, you don't need any impedence matching transformers for the sound pads.
The links you have provided are correct. The Dayton soundpads are basically the same as the Sonic Impact ones but cheaper(?).The Gatorfoam I used was the 5mm thick black with black core.
The piezo transformer is only for use of a piezo as a DML transducer. But, it will need a woofer to fill in the lower frequencies - the sound pads are full range.
Ed, the panels present a calculated 6 ohm load to the amplifier. This seems to make a big difference with the Pioneer (I had to change the speaker impedence setting from 8 ohms to 6 ohms due to the PTC resistors on the exciters kicking in at higher levels at the 8 ohm setting only
I would say that with 6 exciters wired for 6 ohms impedence roughly, an amplifier power of around 10 watts minimum is required. As the 845 was only 4 watts, I would estimate that at 2 watts the panels revealed the amp's weakness without mercy.
The panels are indeed fussy beasts. They will reveal low power valves in an instant. If you like your music played at soft levels with an active preamplifier, you'll be o.k.
However, if you're in the mood to blast the paint off your walls, higher power, most likely in the form of solid state is the way to go. High powered valve amps will of course do as well but to me it seems like S.S. is a better partner in this revealing set up?It's just my opinion and observations though......don't take this as gospel
Another thing my ''Ziggyplanars'' love 16 guage vintage magnet wire as speaker cables. When I say vintage, I mean 40 years old with a coating that is orange and WILL NOT BURN with a naked flame what the hell would that coating be? You can only scrape it off with a scalpel!
Anyway, it sounds FANTASTIC!!....best cable ever....and I have a few expensive ones.
Ed, I gather you don't take my sound evaluation on the Pioneer receiver seriously
?
Can't say I blame you - I would have laughed at the thought also until It started breaking in and revealing it's strengths
I wonder how a Gainclone will sound with the panels? I have all the stuff to knock up a quick working clone - might give it a go?
The links you have provided are correct. The Dayton soundpads are basically the same as the Sonic Impact ones but cheaper(?).The Gatorfoam I used was the 5mm thick black with black core.
The piezo transformer is only for use of a piezo as a DML transducer. But, it will need a woofer to fill in the lower frequencies - the sound pads are full range.
Ed, the panels present a calculated 6 ohm load to the amplifier. This seems to make a big difference with the Pioneer (I had to change the speaker impedence setting from 8 ohms to 6 ohms due to the PTC resistors on the exciters kicking in at higher levels at the 8 ohm setting only
I would say that with 6 exciters wired for 6 ohms impedence roughly, an amplifier power of around 10 watts minimum is required. As the 845 was only 4 watts, I would estimate that at 2 watts the panels revealed the amp's weakness without mercy.
The panels are indeed fussy beasts. They will reveal low power valves in an instant. If you like your music played at soft levels with an active preamplifier, you'll be o.k.
However, if you're in the mood to blast the paint off your walls, higher power, most likely in the form of solid state is the way to go. High powered valve amps will of course do as well but to me it seems like S.S. is a better partner in this revealing set up?It's just my opinion and observations though......don't take this as gospel
Another thing my ''Ziggyplanars''
love 16 guage vintage magnet wire as speaker cables. When I say vintage, I mean 40 years old with a coating that is orange and WILL NOT BURN with a naked flame what the hell would that coating be? You can only scrape it off with a scalpel! Anyway, it sounds FANTASTIC!!....best cable ever....and I have a few expensive ones.
Ed, I gather you don't take my sound evaluation on the Pioneer receiver seriously
?Can't say I blame you - I would have laughed at the thought also until It started breaking in and revealing it's strengths
I wonder how a Gainclone will sound with the panels? I have all the stuff to knock up a quick working clone - might give it a go?
Thanks for the details Ziggy. I guess the exciters have very little thermal mass, so heat up with relatively little power - hence the 6W rating and care required with the amp etc..
Oh, and my April 1st gag.... I absolutely take you seriously, but am just enjoying a little fun given the received wisdom that can overtake some folks views on sound equipment.
Sometimes absurd equipment or combinations can sound good.... take for example my first attempt to run my Magneplanar SMGa's from a tiny, "cheap & nasty" mini system - before the main amp was fixed. It sounded great until it's little chip amp ran out of steam. Any notion that these are a hard load to drive, or are "current hungry" and need 100's of Watts to sound good should be taken with a pinch of salt.
To butcher a popular phrase "It wasn't loud but it sure was hi fi"
The Maggies now live with a large Adcom solid state amp, that someone gave to me after it blew up. Cost to me - a service manual and $1.69 in parts.
What I like best of all about Audio? doing it well, or differently on the cheap
Ed
Oh, and my April 1st gag.... I absolutely take you seriously, but am just enjoying a little fun given the received wisdom that can overtake some folks views on sound equipment.
Sometimes absurd equipment or combinations can sound good.... take for example my first attempt to run my Magneplanar SMGa's from a tiny, "cheap & nasty" mini system - before the main amp was fixed. It sounded great until it's little chip amp ran out of steam. Any notion that these are a hard load to drive, or are "current hungry" and need 100's of Watts to sound good should be taken with a pinch of salt.
To butcher a popular phrase "It wasn't loud but it sure was hi fi"
The Maggies now live with a large Adcom solid state amp, that someone gave to me after it blew up. Cost to me - a service manual and $1.69 in parts.
What I like best of all about Audio? doing it well, or differently on the cheap
Ed
Thanks Ziggy,
I ordered a few and will report back. What would you estimate the frequency response and sensitivity using glass is? Under 85db? For the sake of it, I may give glass a try using the Behringer 24/96 DEQ. So many say that they liked the sound of a glass window but they lack bass.
I ordered a few and will report back. What would you estimate the frequency response and sensitivity using glass is? Under 85db? For the sake of it, I may give glass a try using the Behringer 24/96 DEQ. So many say that they liked the sound of a glass window but they lack bass.
Glass would have such a high SAF ... what a fantastic idea.
... but I would use a piece of plexi, or polycarbonate.
I would think tempered glass would be dangerous.
Untempered glass might be better, it doesn't have the 'prestressing' that tempered does - that is why untempered is used for aquariums.
Polycarbonate would be tough and more clear, unless you used starlight glass (vice soda 'green' glass).
== John ==
... but I would use a piece of plexi, or polycarbonate.
I would think tempered glass would be dangerous.
Untempered glass might be better, it doesn't have the 'prestressing' that tempered does - that is why untempered is used for aquariums.
Polycarbonate would be tough and more clear, unless you used starlight glass (vice soda 'green' glass).
== John ==
Hey Ed..... yes , I get your drift perfectly. The audio world is a weird but fascinating phenomenon. I guess that's why we all lurk around these forums trying to learn or understand the unanswerable.
Love your story on the Maggies - this rings a bell : I once owned the Tympani's(MAGGIES ON HINGES) and ran them with a 15 watt per channel JVC intergrated amp from the 70's!!
I bet that Adcom amp of yours does the trick!?
greenvalve : listen to jqwinner - he's right - glass is too heavy and that's what it's all about - weight/mass and rigidity.
If you must use something clear, use acrylic/perspex as jqwinner suggests.You will need multiple exciters and some reasonable power to obtain adequate sound levels.
Hard to say what the sensitivity will be but I would guess that it would be considerably lower than Gatorfoam or foam board, cardboard etc.
Let us know how this sounds if you go ahead.
yes , I get your drift perfectly. The audio world is a weird but fascinating phenomenon. I guess that's why we all lurk around these forums trying to learn or understand the unanswerable.Love your story on the Maggies - this rings a bell : I once owned the Tympani's(MAGGIES ON HINGES) and ran them with a 15 watt per channel JVC intergrated amp from the 70's!!
I bet that Adcom amp of yours does the trick!?
greenvalve : listen to jqwinner - he's right - glass is too heavy and that's what it's all about - weight/mass and rigidity.
If you must use something clear, use acrylic/perspex as jqwinner suggests.You will need multiple exciters and some reasonable power to obtain adequate sound levels.
Hard to say what the sensitivity will be but I would guess that it would be considerably lower than Gatorfoam or foam board, cardboard etc.
Let us know how this sounds if you go ahead.
Thanks guys,
I guessed as much... the thinner the glass the better it will sound I imagine. I have a young son running around the house so untempered glass is out of the question. I happen to have two identical glass coffee table tops (made of tempered safety glass) in storage that I was intending to use, but they are so thick I'm sure they have too much mass. I did get 12 pairs of Soundexciters, however even with that many I doubt the table tops would have enough bass.
Scheduled delivery is this Thursday. I love 'Audio Anticipation'!!
JG you have it backwards, tempered is safer and 5x stronger. A vertical piece of untempered glass with no frame is a guillotine waiting to happen.
I guessed as much... the thinner the glass the better it will sound I imagine. I have a young son running around the house so untempered glass is out of the question. I happen to have two identical glass coffee table tops (made of tempered safety glass) in storage that I was intending to use, but they are so thick I'm sure they have too much mass. I did get 12 pairs of Soundexciters, however even with that many I doubt the table tops would have enough bass.
Scheduled delivery is this Thursday. I love 'Audio Anticipation'!!
JG you have it backwards, tempered is safer and 5x stronger. A vertical piece of untempered glass with no frame is a guillotine waiting to happen.
Well, the Gatorfoam costs more than the drivers...
My plan is to try a variety of configurations. I want to see if I can run a two way active crossover, or perhaps just 1 pair run full-range and the other pairs for bass. Or plain-old all full-range but EQ'd.
I do have a 7w 300b amp I would like to throw in the mix, but the Soundexciter impedance peak is a concern. If I have extra they are going into each room of the house for a whole home system.
My plan is to try a variety of configurations. I want to see if I can run a two way active crossover, or perhaps just 1 pair run full-range and the other pairs for bass. Or plain-old all full-range but EQ'd.
I do have a 7w 300b amp I would like to throw in the mix, but the Soundexciter impedance peak is a concern. If I have extra they are going into each room of the house for a whole home system.
Playing with the Soundexciters right now. The glass table tops ring and ring like running your finger around a crystal wine glass. Even with dampening I think it will be very hard for glass of any thickness to sound natural.
There is no comparison between using them with or without the original plastic housing. With the plastic body removed sensitivity and clarity are improved.
There is no comparison between using them with or without the original plastic housing. With the plastic body removed sensitivity and clarity are improved.
Are there any other types/bands of exciters out there? (other than the official NXT ones)
I did many hours of similar experiments long, long ago. This is back when an exciter was called a "broken speaker" and we would just rigidly couple the voicecoil and inner part of the spider from a conventional moving coil driver with the cone and most of the basket removed.
We had no idea about the distributed modes that are currently credited with making NXT's sound so good, but did find out that longitudinal rigidity was key. The last decent sounding panels we arrived at were thin sheets of styrofoam that were painted with a floor treatment (epoxy stuff that was used like urethane on floors).
Since the corners of a panel are not as stiffly supported as interior parts of the panel, they tended to flap in more uncontrolled fashion and we ended up trimming off corners and eventually ended up with a rather elliptical (but still flat) design.
One stronger excitation point tended to sound better than multiple weak ones. A single excitation point driven in push/pull fashion from both sides of the panel seemed to work best.
Since the exciters were very heavy, we needed to support them, but supporting the panels and thus keeping the voice coils centered and NOT having the spiders support the panels was a big issue.
Anything physically attached to the edges of the panel would just totally collapse the sound, so any sort of a surround was abandoned. We were partially successful in supporting the weight of the panel with a single elastic band at the top, but attaching anything with any width at all (that is, anything that held the panel by contact at more than a single point) would sound horrible.
Ziggy, How heavy is a full panel of the gatorfoam board you are using?
Also, can you explain how the flexible adhesive method for supporting the panels works? I read that post several times and still can't quite see how it is implemented in a way that works as you described. Attaching the front and back of the exciters with a flexible adhesive is still going to result in the "suspension" of the drivers carrying the full weight of the panel. And having the exciters less rigidly coupled to the panel. or to the supports seems like it reduce pressure levels at a minimum, and possibly dampen some frequencies more than others.
I did many hours of similar experiments long, long ago. This is back when an exciter was called a "broken speaker" and we would just rigidly couple the voicecoil and inner part of the spider from a conventional moving coil driver with the cone and most of the basket removed.
We had no idea about the distributed modes that are currently credited with making NXT's sound so good, but did find out that longitudinal rigidity was key. The last decent sounding panels we arrived at were thin sheets of styrofoam that were painted with a floor treatment (epoxy stuff that was used like urethane on floors).
Since the corners of a panel are not as stiffly supported as interior parts of the panel, they tended to flap in more uncontrolled fashion and we ended up trimming off corners and eventually ended up with a rather elliptical (but still flat) design.
One stronger excitation point tended to sound better than multiple weak ones. A single excitation point driven in push/pull fashion from both sides of the panel seemed to work best.
Since the exciters were very heavy, we needed to support them, but supporting the panels and thus keeping the voice coils centered and NOT having the spiders support the panels was a big issue.
Anything physically attached to the edges of the panel would just totally collapse the sound, so any sort of a surround was abandoned. We were partially successful in supporting the weight of the panel with a single elastic band at the top, but attaching anything with any width at all (that is, anything that held the panel by contact at more than a single point) would sound horrible.
Ziggy, How heavy is a full panel of the gatorfoam board you are using?
Also, can you explain how the flexible adhesive method for supporting the panels works? I read that post several times and still can't quite see how it is implemented in a way that works as you described. Attaching the front and back of the exciters with a flexible adhesive is still going to result in the "suspension" of the drivers carrying the full weight of the panel. And having the exciters less rigidly coupled to the panel. or to the supports seems like it reduce pressure levels at a minimum, and possibly dampen some frequencies more than others.
neededandwanted, the ''broken speakers'' you experimented with are a far throw from the NXT exciters I'm using(nxt's are small and relatively lightweight).
ELAC once made exciters for one of their speaker range which was far ''beefier'' than anything I've seen available from NXT or their Chinese manufacturers (see picture below).This range of speakers is no longer manufactured and is only found in their archives.
I have supplied a link which explains the silicone rubber compliant backing system which I have not yet tried.
I take note in your comments on suspending the panels to a frame of some sort.
At present, my experiments have shown that by holding all four corners firmly by hand(with the help of friends), there is a tightening up of the sound - especially in the bass department.
By using a silicone backing to hold the exciters to a wooden beam, NXT have advised that this will raise the resonant frequency of the exciters. What that means in actual sound produced is still in question as I have not done this yet and the Gatorfoam is not mounted.
The Gatorfoam is approximately the same weight as your standard Foamcore (maybe a tad heavier due to the wood fiber/resin coating).
http://www.tymphany.com/exciters
ELAC once made exciters for one of their speaker range which was far ''beefier'' than anything I've seen available from NXT or their Chinese manufacturers (see picture below).This range of speakers is no longer manufactured and is only found in their archives.
I have supplied a link which explains the silicone rubber compliant backing system which I have not yet tried.
I take note in your comments on suspending the panels to a frame of some sort.
At present, my experiments have shown that by holding all four corners firmly by hand(with the help of friends), there is a tightening up of the sound - especially in the bass department.
By using a silicone backing to hold the exciters to a wooden beam, NXT have advised that this will raise the resonant frequency of the exciters. What that means in actual sound produced is still in question as I have not done this yet and the Gatorfoam is not mounted.
The Gatorfoam is approximately the same weight as your standard Foamcore (maybe a tad heavier due to the wood fiber/resin coating).
http://www.tymphany.com/exciters
Attachments
Thanks for that explanation Ziggy, I still have not received the Gatorboard, but so far lightweight cardboard sounds the best. I also used clear packing tape stretched on a frame, while sounding good the sensitivity was too low. Anything touching the edges of whatever is being used as a 'cone' lowers efficiency.
I would like to cut the cone from a compression driver and use it as an exciter with the Gatorboard.
I would like to cut the cone from a compression driver and use it as an exciter with the Gatorboard.
Looking at the specs the Sonic Impact Soundpads use a neodymium magnet and have higher sensitivity than the Dayton Soundexciters. This is something to be aware of. I have a feeling that efficiency is down 3 to 5 db.
Ziggy, would it be possible not to cut the dome from the compression driver, instead cut a circle from the center of the gatorboard and then glue the board to the dome surround or spider?
Ziggy, would it be possible not to cut the dome from the compression driver, instead cut a circle from the center of the gatorboard and then glue the board to the dome surround or spider?
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