fdegrove said:Hi,
Very nice stuff.
BTW, the 6P3P is the Chinese equivalent of the 6L6 if I'm not mistaken.
Cheers,
Erm... Russian... And 6P3C[-E] is the 6L6GB (not GC, but it won't melt in a GC amp). <Colt correct my Cyrllic plz
>Tim
P.S. Frank and EC8010, keep discussion on the discussion thread
P-P 6L6
Okay, here is my new amp which is a push pull 6L6 Ultralinear design by Hafler. It uses a 6SL7 input with a 6SN7 driver. I am sure the more astute of you will notice the mismatched output tubes which is the result of a dropped tube (first one I ever had break). So now I am waiting on another matched set. For the age of the design (1961) it sounds great so far. It ain't single ended but it ain't solid state either.
Some of you may recognize it from my Running Tube Amp Construction thread.
Okay, here is my new amp which is a push pull 6L6 Ultralinear design by Hafler. It uses a 6SL7 input with a 6SN7 driver. I am sure the more astute of you will notice the mismatched output tubes which is the result of a dropped tube (first one I ever had break). So now I am waiting on another matched set. For the age of the design (1961) it sounds great so far. It ain't single ended but it ain't solid state either.
Some of you may recognize it from my Running Tube Amp Construction thread.
Hi,
Shunt gridleak biasing principles are explained here:
It's not very common in recent tube preamps but it used to be in Western-European circuits by Telefunken, Studer et all in the Sixties....
http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14178/css/14178_46.htm
Cheers,
Shunt gridleak biasing principles are explained here:
It's not very common in recent tube preamps but it used to be in Western-European circuits by Telefunken, Studer et all in the Sixties....
http://www.tpub.com/content/neets/14178/css/14178_46.htm
Cheers,
Hi,
Well the D3A is a common tube here. Not to expensive, and works great. The 6688 (e180F) can be used instead, butr the E280F is better.
When playin at maximun volume my ears are hurting (really) so my CD-player (2Volts) is enough for the preamp to drive the poweramp.
Don't know your preamp, but otherwise build a mu-stage preamp with the 27, or the 26, or the 76. SOunds good, with lots of drive.
Also the ECC99 sounds in very powerful, with lots of detail.
Regards,
Jan
Well the D3A is a common tube here. Not to expensive, and works great. The 6688 (e180F) can be used instead, butr the E280F is better.
When playin at maximun volume my ears are hurting (really) so my CD-player (2Volts) is enough for the preamp to drive the poweramp.
Don't know your preamp, but otherwise build a mu-stage preamp with the 27, or the 26, or the 76. SOunds good, with lots of drive.
Also the ECC99 sounds in very powerful, with lots of detail.
Regards,
Jan
Integrated EL34 Amp
Hey guys, just posted a couple pics of my latest amp that's been my bane for the past year or so. Still needs sides for the vol control and chassis, I'm thinking a lighter colored wood. The tube count is 29
Based on a couple of Rozenblit's designs, it uses the grounded grid preamp with 12AT7 gain mod, the outputs are/were based on the super-compact 150w monoblock, but I had so much trouble with the EL509s during testing that I changed over to EL34s that I had on hand. Plates are at 700v, and screens a little over 400v. I tossed in a switchable active EQ (6 tubes on the far left), and tube regulated and rectified power for it and the preamp. Oh, and it weighs an absolute ton!
The far left transformer is for the filaments only, there are three more hidden under the chassis for the pre/eq power, onboard electronics (remote&processor) and for the EL34 bias. The 6AF6 dual eye tube is driven from the EL34 screens and has a gain control on the back. The LEDs on the front indicate remote,preamp power, filaments, poweramp power, and standby/sleeptimer. The orange indicators along the front are neons and backlit letters that correspond to the knob functions. The other cool trick is the motorized volume knob. As you turn it, a growing ring of red follows the position. A toggle on the back puts it into dot mode. Full red indicates half volume.
In the glass window on top is a microprocessor that runs the show, built-in sleeptimer, internal temp checking, selectable relay inputs, delayed warmup for both pre and power amp HV, and some other goodies. There's also a 12 channel infrared board hiding under the main chassis for the remote.
Besides the wood sides I need to finish the software interface for the blue LCD display.
Wow...never again!
So what do you think?
Hey guys, just posted a couple pics of my latest amp that's been my bane for the past year or so. Still needs sides for the vol control and chassis, I'm thinking a lighter colored wood. The tube count is 29
Based on a couple of Rozenblit's designs, it uses the grounded grid preamp with 12AT7 gain mod, the outputs are/were based on the super-compact 150w monoblock, but I had so much trouble with the EL509s during testing that I changed over to EL34s that I had on hand. Plates are at 700v, and screens a little over 400v. I tossed in a switchable active EQ (6 tubes on the far left), and tube regulated and rectified power for it and the preamp. Oh, and it weighs an absolute ton!
The far left transformer is for the filaments only, there are three more hidden under the chassis for the pre/eq power, onboard electronics (remote&processor) and for the EL34 bias. The 6AF6 dual eye tube is driven from the EL34 screens and has a gain control on the back. The LEDs on the front indicate remote,preamp power, filaments, poweramp power, and standby/sleeptimer. The orange indicators along the front are neons and backlit letters that correspond to the knob functions. The other cool trick is the motorized volume knob. As you turn it, a growing ring of red follows the position. A toggle on the back puts it into dot mode. Full red indicates half volume.
In the glass window on top is a microprocessor that runs the show, built-in sleeptimer, internal temp checking, selectable relay inputs, delayed warmup for both pre and power amp HV, and some other goodies. There's also a 12 channel infrared board hiding under the main chassis for the remote.
Besides the wood sides I need to finish the software interface for the blue LCD display.
Wow...never again!
So what do you think?
Who, me? I actually get a real kick out of seeing everybody's work, it gives me inspiration to know I'm not the only one afflicted with this illness!
Yeah, it amplifies sound too. I'm still warming up to it compared with my last amp that was based on a 40's PA design. PP 6L6s, 5U4 rect and 6SN7/6SL7s to round it out. Great sound but runs out of oomph when I really crank it up (estimate 30w or so).
What I really like about this amp is how quiet it is, no hum, no buzz, just the sound of amplifying silence I have a stereophile mag test CD and it sounds great, really bringing out woodwinds, vocals and piano, but I prefer modern rock, pop, and some other eclectic stuff and that sounds too solid state, too bright I guess. I admit, I play a lot of MP3s and the iPod made testing a breeze, but that only adds more variables to the mix. The Essential Billy Joel CD sounds nice though.
I don't think my speakers help, they're just cheapies...maybe it's time to move up to the majors? Any suggestions?
I actually get a real kick out of seeing everybody's work, it gives me inspiration to know I'm not the only one afflicted with this illness!Yeah, it amplifies sound too. I'm still warming up to it compared with my last amp that was based on a 40's PA design. PP 6L6s, 5U4 rect and 6SN7/6SL7s to round it out. Great sound but runs out of oomph when I really crank it up (estimate 30w or so).
What I really like about this amp is how quiet it is, no hum, no buzz, just the sound of amplifying silence
I have a stereophile mag test CD and it sounds great, really bringing out woodwinds, vocals and piano, but I prefer modern rock, pop, and some other eclectic stuff and that sounds too solid state, too bright I guess. I admit, I play a lot of MP3s and the iPod made testing a breeze, but that only adds more variables to the mix. The Essential Billy Joel CD sounds nice though. I don't think my speakers help, they're just cheapies...maybe it's time to move up to the majors? Any suggestions?
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