Laser for CDM 1
Hi Jean Paul,
You had earlier said that you've found a possible source for CDM1 lasers. Any luck? I have a CD960 that sounds so much better than some recent end units when used as a transport. I'm not about to give it up yet but I think after 7 years of use, the remaining life span of the laser may not be too long!
ckt😕
Hi Jean Paul,
You had earlier said that you've found a possible source for CDM1 lasers. Any luck? I have a CD960 that sounds so much better than some recent end units when used as a transport. I'm not about to give it up yet but I think after 7 years of use, the remaining life span of the laser may not be too long!
ckt😕
I finally got around to replacing the clock on my CD80 with the Guido Tent clock, and I have to agree with Jean-Paul, it really is a big improvement.
CD80 similiar to CD60
Hi Jean Paul,
IS the CD80 similiar to Marantz cd60 apart from the transport which i think CD60 is using CDM4/19
I hav not open up the cd60 yet. So if you have any schematics for the CD80 which u can send to me i will be much appreciated.
I will taking note on the mod u had suggest for the cd60.
Hi Jean Paul,
IS the CD80 similiar to Marantz cd60 apart from the transport which i think CD60 is using CDM4/19
I hav not open up the cd60 yet. So if you have any schematics for the CD80 which u can send to me i will be much appreciated.
I will taking note on the mod u had suggest for the cd60.
Hello tbklbl ( do you have a pronouncable name as well !?! ),
I do know CD60 and it is not similar to CD80 except for the brandname.
CD60 has a CDM4/19, plastic chassis and a completely different mainboard with an integrated power supply ( CD80 has a separate pcb for that ). I once modded a CD60 SE or KI that was flawed with some design errors that were not in the original one. Check which version you have.
It is a good cdplayer that much resembles the Philips types of those days. As with those Philips types I would decouple SAA7220 really well with 220 uF OSCON.
Replace output opamps with OP249 ( used that one at that time ), OP275 or better: wait for Rbroers output pcb's ! Output caps can be Nichicon MUSE ( leave them were they are or replace them for the same types ) or standard electrolytics which I would replace for a more audiophilic type. There is a member here ( Wkcheng I think ) that sells good bipolar electrolytics for audio. Please check if the output opamps have decoupling caps at all. In some Philips cdplayers with the same pcb they are omitted.
Decouple the servo opamps well. Replace all electrolytics with better types like Panasonic FC or BCComponents series 038. The original ones are worn out because of age. A Guido clock DIY with a separate transformer and supply will make the most difference but beware. The plastic case allows RF to leave the cdplayer in original state already and it'll be worse with a new clock. Better use metal screen against the "walls" of the plastic chassis with a connection to GND otherwise your radio and tv will notice when the cdplayer is on 😀
A careful examination of ground routing is something for the experienced but it's worth the energy. Please disconnect the cables to the output with the potentiometer if you don't use the regulated output. You'll be surprised how much sound will be better. ( you cut approx. 25 cm of cable by doing so ). That counts for the headphone output as well. When doing so you can remove the headphone opamp IIRC. Use dampening/damping material like Bostik for the upper metal cover.
* watch out with touching the mainpcb of cd60. The copper is unprotected and it will corrode after is is touched * It is possible to coat it with polyurethane spray. I don 't feel for a discussion about the negative effects of that. It does have an influence though. Please cover *all* connectors and remove the cdm when spraying the board !!!!
These mods are more or less the standard approach of mine with the CDM oldies. There are more possibilities however like using an extra 7805 for SAA7220 alone or adding a new separate supply for the output stage.
I don't have a manual of this one but it is the standard Philips mainboard so you can use almost any manual you want of similar types.
@diyman: I am still waiting for those CDM1's. In other words: I don't think I'll ever receive them. Best chance is to buy an old Philips cdplayer with CDM1 for a replacement laser.
I do know CD60 and it is not similar to CD80 except for the brandname.
CD60 has a CDM4/19, plastic chassis and a completely different mainboard with an integrated power supply ( CD80 has a separate pcb for that ). I once modded a CD60 SE or KI that was flawed with some design errors that were not in the original one. Check which version you have.
It is a good cdplayer that much resembles the Philips types of those days. As with those Philips types I would decouple SAA7220 really well with 220 uF OSCON.
Replace output opamps with OP249 ( used that one at that time ), OP275 or better: wait for Rbroers output pcb's ! Output caps can be Nichicon MUSE ( leave them were they are or replace them for the same types ) or standard electrolytics which I would replace for a more audiophilic type. There is a member here ( Wkcheng I think ) that sells good bipolar electrolytics for audio. Please check if the output opamps have decoupling caps at all. In some Philips cdplayers with the same pcb they are omitted.
Decouple the servo opamps well. Replace all electrolytics with better types like Panasonic FC or BCComponents series 038. The original ones are worn out because of age. A Guido clock DIY with a separate transformer and supply will make the most difference but beware. The plastic case allows RF to leave the cdplayer in original state already and it'll be worse with a new clock. Better use metal screen against the "walls" of the plastic chassis with a connection to GND otherwise your radio and tv will notice when the cdplayer is on 😀
A careful examination of ground routing is something for the experienced but it's worth the energy. Please disconnect the cables to the output with the potentiometer if you don't use the regulated output. You'll be surprised how much sound will be better. ( you cut approx. 25 cm of cable by doing so ). That counts for the headphone output as well. When doing so you can remove the headphone opamp IIRC. Use dampening/damping material like Bostik for the upper metal cover.
* watch out with touching the mainpcb of cd60. The copper is unprotected and it will corrode after is is touched * It is possible to coat it with polyurethane spray. I don 't feel for a discussion about the negative effects of that. It does have an influence though. Please cover *all* connectors and remove the cdm when spraying the board !!!!
These mods are more or less the standard approach of mine with the CDM oldies. There are more possibilities however like using an extra 7805 for SAA7220 alone or adding a new separate supply for the output stage.
I don't have a manual of this one but it is the standard Philips mainboard so you can use almost any manual you want of similar types.
@diyman: I am still waiting for those CDM1's. In other words: I don't think I'll ever receive them. Best chance is to buy an old Philips cdplayer with CDM1 for a replacement laser.
Be careful with desoldering parts as the pcb tracks peel off easily. Better use desolder braid for that....
Hi tbklbl
I will try to email the CD624service manual today. I t is a scanned copy of my original as a pdf. The quality is OK, most people can read it. Let me know how your mods go, we might have some common ideas or problems.
regards
fin
I will try to email the CD624service manual today. I t is a scanned copy of my original as a pdf. The quality is OK, most people can read it. Let me know how your mods go, we might have some common ideas or problems.
regards
fin
Hi, Jean Paul, Thank for the tips. I am currently working on the cd52 then i will move to the cd60.
I had changed all the Ecap to a new one but not exactly audiophiles quality and add 0.1 tantulum parallel to most of the Ecap that i changed. Change all the rectifiers diode(with snubber network) to the fast recovery UG2B. Replaced some of the jumper wire with Ferrities bead for most of the supply lines.
Currently working on the ground looping. Detected that the SAA7310 is within the same loop as the servo amp(Motorola TCA0372 nd TDA8808/9 servo processor. I am now confused whether to group the TDA8808/9 and the SAA7310 in the same ground path cause they shared the same +5V regulator . But I am sure that the TDA8808/9 will be pretty noisy.
At the moment I settle for ground sharing of TDA8809/9 and TCA0372. The other ground will be shared by all others digital ICs.
Anyway gonna power up the fellow today to make sure that those mod that i had done does not kill them
If everything is fine, may add
a)another regulator just for the SAA7310 later.
b)separate clock PS and a Kwak clock alike
c) TDA1543 inside
BTW: Fin, thanks in advanced for the schematics.
I had changed all the Ecap to a new one but not exactly audiophiles quality and add 0.1 tantulum parallel to most of the Ecap that i changed. Change all the rectifiers diode(with snubber network) to the fast recovery UG2B. Replaced some of the jumper wire with Ferrities bead for most of the supply lines.
Currently working on the ground looping. Detected that the SAA7310 is within the same loop as the servo amp(Motorola TCA0372 nd TDA8808/9 servo processor. I am now confused whether to group the TDA8808/9 and the SAA7310 in the same ground path cause they shared the same +5V regulator . But I am sure that the TDA8808/9 will be pretty noisy.
At the moment I settle for ground sharing of TDA8809/9 and TCA0372. The other ground will be shared by all others digital ICs.
Anyway gonna power up the fellow today to make sure that those mod that i had done does not kill them
If everything is fine, may add
a)another regulator just for the SAA7310 later.
b)separate clock PS and a Kwak clock alike
c) TDA1543 inside
BTW: Fin, thanks in advanced for the schematics.
Aargh, tantalum caps in audio. I wouldn't do that, certainly not directly on supply lines. They break too often and sound dubious. Better change the Ecaps to good industrial types without bypassing with tantalum caps.
Feeding the TCA0372 with it's own supply and ground is the best solution but it takes space which you don't have in that one. Personally I think it s too much work but it can be done in some of the oldies.
Feed the SAA7220 with it's own supply or decouple it with OSCON.
Why would you remove the TDA1541 and put a TDA1543 in ?!?!
You're serious about the ground routing. Keep up the good work.
Regards,
Jean-Paul
Feeding the TCA0372 with it's own supply and ground is the best solution but it takes space which you don't have in that one. Personally I think it s too much work but it can be done in some of the oldies.
Feed the SAA7220 with it's own supply or decouple it with OSCON.
Why would you remove the TDA1541 and put a TDA1543 in ?!?!
You're serious about the ground routing. Keep up the good work.
Regards,
Jean-Paul
Hi Jean Paul,
The current mod i am working on is Marantz CD52 so no TDA1541 inside. I hav the CD60 waiting on the list actually.
The CD52 apparently have already laid out the PCB routing for additional +ve/-ve regulator mainly for the TC0372 and JRC4560.
I need your advice on the ground looping. Is those grounding scheme that i applied is the correct way. I meant grouping the TCA0372 with the TDA8808/9 together and SAA7310/PCF3523P another separate group
BTW maybe i am not sure is a tantalum..maybe ceramic i don't know cause there are plenty laying around. Its axial lead something like the size od 1206 SMT size and no polarity.
The current mod i am working on is Marantz CD52 so no TDA1541 inside. I hav the CD60 waiting on the list actually.
The CD52 apparently have already laid out the PCB routing for additional +ve/-ve regulator mainly for the TC0372 and JRC4560.
I need your advice on the ground looping. Is those grounding scheme that i applied is the correct way. I meant grouping the TCA0372 with the TDA8808/9 together and SAA7310/PCF3523P another separate group
BTW maybe i am not sure is a tantalum..maybe ceramic i don't know cause there are plenty laying around. Its axial lead something like the size od 1206 SMT size and no polarity.
Hi HH,
How did you sort out your CD80 tray problem as I have the same with my Marantz CD80!...
I cleaned the laser, cleaned and put some oil in the motor (head of spndle), but it does not help.
I have changed almost all elec caps, Diodes, opamps, installed clock, clock's psu...
Many thanks.
Chuong
How did you sort out your CD80 tray problem as I have the same with my Marantz CD80!...
I cleaned the laser, cleaned and put some oil in the motor (head of spndle), but it does not help.
I have changed almost all elec caps, Diodes, opamps, installed clock, clock's psu...
Many thanks.
Chuong
Jean Paul,
Just want to thank you for modding instruction on the CD80, it now sounds good but it just plays the first track ok, after that the motor become weaker and weaker then stop playing. I really don't know what's going wrong with it.
Regards.
Chuong
Just want to thank you for modding instruction on the CD80, it now sounds good but it just plays the first track ok, after that the motor become weaker and weaker then stop playing. I really don't know what's going wrong with it.
Regards.
Chuong
Can these be adapted?
Hi Jean Paul
Can these modifications be adapted and applied to other Philips CDPs - like the CD624?
If so, could you please provide generic decscriptions of the locations for the mods - not just the service manual location numbers?
Actually, it would be wonderful if you could provide detailed information like this for other Philips CDPs that share the same basic power supply layout, etc. - but that might be asking a bit too much!
jean-paul said:
jean-paul said:
Hi Jean Paul
Can these modifications be adapted and applied to other Philips CDPs - like the CD624?
If so, could you please provide generic decscriptions of the locations for the mods - not just the service manual location numbers?
Actually, it would be wonderful if you could provide detailed information like this for other Philips CDPs that share the same basic power supply layout, etc. - but that might be asking a bit too much!
Marantz CD80
Hi Guys,
I have been having a load of fun with the search tool over the last couple of weeks because I have a newly acquired Marantz CD80 on its way to me.
Do the tweaks previously mentioned apply to the Marantz model as well? I belive the Marantz and Philips CD80 varied internally.
Many thanks!!
Jon
(Can't wait!)
Hi Guys,
I have been having a load of fun with the search tool over the last couple of weeks because I have a newly acquired Marantz CD80 on its way to me.
Do the tweaks previously mentioned apply to the Marantz model as well? I belive the Marantz and Philips CD80 varied internally.
Many thanks!!
Jon
(Can't wait!)
Jean - Paul wrote:
Off topic: change the NE5534's for OPA627's and remove the 22 pF SMD capacitors between pins 5 and 8 with desolder-litze. Do this at all NE5534's ( if you replace them for OPA's that is ).
Replace cap 2525 ( 470 uF) on the power supply for a 1000 uF 16 V type. Replace all 47 uF on the mainboard and on the power supply for new ones since they are 10 years old ( at least ).
Keep the 100 uF Cerafines ! They are OK.
Replace the 2450 and 2451 caps in the servo ( 100 uF 40 V ) for audiophile types.
Place small 100 nF caps from pin 1 to pin 2 and from pin 2 to pin 3 on IC 6522. Place small 100nF caps from pin 2 to 1 and from pin 1 to pin 3 on IC 6523.
If you have a low jitter clock like Guido Tent's or Elso Kwak's: Remove crystal 1302 ( 11.289 MHz ) and caps 2328 and 2329 ( 47 pF ). *Keep resistor 3366*. Connect the low jitter clock to pin 11 of IC SAA7220PB. Connect power leads of the clock supply to cap 2524. This is the mod that makes 50 % in terms of quality of all mods.
More mods are possible but these are the simple and very effective ones. I wouldn't advise you to remove the SAA7220PB so that the player will be an non os one. You'll regret that afterwards.
Jean-Paul
Could you please write all the mods you know for Marantz CD80(that are worth applying)?I am about to buy an unmodified one and would like to upgrade it.Thanks in advance.
Off topic: change the NE5534's for OPA627's and remove the 22 pF SMD capacitors between pins 5 and 8 with desolder-litze. Do this at all NE5534's ( if you replace them for OPA's that is ).
Replace cap 2525 ( 470 uF) on the power supply for a 1000 uF 16 V type. Replace all 47 uF on the mainboard and on the power supply for new ones since they are 10 years old ( at least ).
Keep the 100 uF Cerafines ! They are OK.
Replace the 2450 and 2451 caps in the servo ( 100 uF 40 V ) for audiophile types.
Place small 100 nF caps from pin 1 to pin 2 and from pin 2 to pin 3 on IC 6522. Place small 100nF caps from pin 2 to 1 and from pin 1 to pin 3 on IC 6523.
If you have a low jitter clock like Guido Tent's or Elso Kwak's: Remove crystal 1302 ( 11.289 MHz ) and caps 2328 and 2329 ( 47 pF ). *Keep resistor 3366*. Connect the low jitter clock to pin 11 of IC SAA7220PB. Connect power leads of the clock supply to cap 2524. This is the mod that makes 50 % in terms of quality of all mods.
More mods are possible but these are the simple and very effective ones. I wouldn't advise you to remove the SAA7220PB so that the player will be an non os one. You'll regret that afterwards.
Jean-Paul
Could you please write all the mods you know for Marantz CD80(that are worth applying)?I am about to buy an unmodified one and would like to upgrade it.Thanks in advance.
I fitted OPA627s and a Kwak Clock 7 to mine and will do the cap changes some time in the future. I like the sound of this bruiser and I think there is more to come out of it.
Cheers
Jon
😀
Cheers
Jon
😀
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