Re: Re: Tray Motor board transistors?
Thanks!
Just the ticket. I had already checked the grey cables (I've serviced Philips gear before!) but I knew the motor driver transistor(s) had failed... Hope to get the beast fixed this weekend.
Richard
Onnosr said:
Thanks!
Just the ticket. I had already checked the grey cables (I've serviced Philips gear before!) but I knew the motor driver transistor(s) had failed... Hope to get the beast fixed this weekend.
Richard
YES 
I just managed to get such a nice player, but I´m still looking for a service manual. Would anyone be so kind to send it to me?
Tomorrow I will fight myself through this topic and look what I can improve to my just gained beauty. 🙂
Regards,
Mischa
I just managed to get such a nice player, but I´m still looking for a service manual. Would anyone be so kind to send it to me?
Tomorrow I will fight myself through this topic and look what I can improve to my just gained beauty. 🙂
Regards,
Mischa
mischa72 said:YES
I just managed to get such a nice player, but I´m still looking for a service manual. Would anyone be so kind to send it to me?
Tomorrow I will fight myself through this topic and look what I can improve to my just gained beauty. 🙂
Regards,
Mischa
Send your email address.
Onno
NE5532 replacement and sticky tray
Thanks for the information about driver transistors, I replaced those and got the tray to slide in and out on command. It does have the usual problem getting fully in though, I've seen mention of replacing the drive belt, but it does seem very stiff to push the last few millimetres in. Is there a particular point to lubricate before I change the belt?
Also, I changed the NE5532 op-amps in the output for Burr-Brown OPA627 pairs. What a difference that makes. The sound really does jump out at you!
Richard
Thanks for the information about driver transistors, I replaced those and got the tray to slide in and out on command. It does have the usual problem getting fully in though, I've seen mention of replacing the drive belt, but it does seem very stiff to push the last few millimetres in. Is there a particular point to lubricate before I change the belt?
Also, I changed the NE5532 op-amps in the output for Burr-Brown OPA627 pairs. What a difference that makes. The sound really does jump out at you!
Richard
Re: NE5532 replacement and sticky tray
Hmmm, sounds like a reason to keep the 5532. I'd be interested in your listening experiences over time. I have often found other opamps to initially sound better but to have rather fatiguing aspects over time. I'd be delighted if you have found an improvement, I know the slew rate on the 5532 is nothing to write home about, which is important in IV conversion
mole42 said:
Hmmm, sounds like a reason to keep the 5532. I'd be interested in your listening experiences over time. I have often found other opamps to initially sound better but to have rather fatiguing aspects over time. I'd be delighted if you have found an improvement, I know the slew rate on the 5532 is nothing to write home about, which is important in IV conversion
Re: Re: NE5532 replacement and sticky tray
I maybe didn't say it like I find it! I've listened to CDs now for a couple of weeks with the new op-amps and I'd say that the difference is noticeable. Mainly there's better definition to the bass, the sound stage seems more defined and things like piano solo works sound more real, more as though the piano was in the room. My listening preference varies between Bach, blues and big band swing. Maybe because I'm a musician I have more particular requirements from my audio equipment?
Richard
jives11 said:
I maybe didn't say it like I find it! I've listened to CDs now for a couple of weeks with the new op-amps and I'd say that the difference is noticeable. Mainly there's better definition to the bass, the sound stage seems more defined and things like piano solo works sound more real, more as though the piano was in the room. My listening preference varies between Bach, blues and big band swing. Maybe because I'm a musician I have more particular requirements from my audio equipment?
Richard
I'm looking for the full service manual to troubleshoot my CD104, which has blown the fuse. Would appreciate it if someone could kindly email it to me at mcheong66@gmail.com
BTW, the fuse used in the CD104 is rather uncommon (inside the transformer housing), does anyone know where to get it?
Thanks for all your help!
BTW, the fuse used in the CD104 is rather uncommon (inside the transformer housing), does anyone know where to get it?
Thanks for all your help!
The fuse ifaik must be easy to find. The temperature overload fuse within the windings of the transformer is not interchangeble
About the thermal fuse for the transformer, I'm thinking of using a modern thermal fuse which is more easily available. Just hope that the transformer is still OK.
Cheers.
Cheers.
I've received the service manual. Thank you very much to all who had emailed it to me. I can slowly nurse the CD104 back to health soon. Cheers.
Schematics of CD204 and decoupling caps on TDA1540 ???
I bought a Philips CD204 a few days ago. It was described as defective in the auction and therefore dirt cheap – I paid 5 Euros! You can imagine my surprise when I received the parcel shortly afterwards – the player was in full working order and the case was, apart from two minor scratches on top of the faceplate, in pristine condition. It plays all of my CDs, whether they are 80 min long or badly burned CDRs. Only the tray needs a helping hand on the last cm when the player is cold, but even that changes after the playback of just one CD.
Together with an audiophile friend, I tested the CD204 against my T+A DVD1210R, which is a rather modern DVD-Player from the 2000 Euro range. I bought that one new in 2002 and it bested players like Marantz CD16, Micromega Stage 3, Teac VRDS25x, T+A CD1230R and a few others in my system.
It was quite a shock when the unmodified CD204 was roughly equal to the T+A, with a more accurate bass, better PRAT and an overall more natural sound. The T+A was superior in highlighting small details, soundstage depth, bass impact and resolution. We both found the T+A to be the more audiophile player but the CD204 was more engaging. When you consider that the T+A was using a pretty good aftermarket power chord and a 400 Euro RCA cable while the Philips stuck to its build in power and RCA cables, you can call that was an incredible result.
Now I will start my first CDP tuning with the CD204 which will consist of:
1. New gold plated RCA sockets and an IEC socket with mains filter,
2. Damping of the enclosure with bituminised felt and substituting the ultra thin bottom plate with a 5 mm aluminium plate,
3. Resoldering all the griplets and changing the old decoupling caps on the PCBs to Sanyo OC-CON,
4. Replacing the decoupling caps on both TDA1540 with Wima MKS or MKP,
5. Doing a NOS conversion
6. Changing the NE5532 to LM6172, THS4031, OPA2132 or OPA2134,
7. Using a high quality film cap as DC blocking cap instead of the old one.
Afterwards, I might be adding a separate power supply for the CD drive, the clock, the op-amps, the DA converters and what else might have an impact on the sound.
But as I have never done any modifications to my audio equipment before, there are some areas of doubt. My questions are:
1. What is a good cap in the power supply?
2. What is a good size for the decoupling caps for the TDA1540?
3. Can someone please send me a copy of the complete CD104/CD204 schematics to stefan.runge@post.rwth-aachen.de?
The TDA1540 in this CD204 uses:
• 0,47 uF on pin 12,
• 0,22 uF on pin 13,
• 0,1 uF on pin 14,
• 0,047 uF on pin 18,
• 0,022 uF on pin 19,
• 0,01 uF on pin 20 to 25
All are of the through hole type and no SMD parts. This will make soldering easier and there is more space, too. What do you suggest – increasing the size of the decoupling caps to double, triple or four times the size? What kind of caps have you used and what other modifications do make sense?
I do not want to use an aftermarket clock as I think that it is not the clock that increases the performance in the first place, but the separate power supply for the clock that helps to keep clock noise away from the rest of the circuit.
Best regard,
StefanAC
I bought a Philips CD204 a few days ago. It was described as defective in the auction and therefore dirt cheap – I paid 5 Euros! You can imagine my surprise when I received the parcel shortly afterwards – the player was in full working order and the case was, apart from two minor scratches on top of the faceplate, in pristine condition. It plays all of my CDs, whether they are 80 min long or badly burned CDRs. Only the tray needs a helping hand on the last cm when the player is cold, but even that changes after the playback of just one CD.
Together with an audiophile friend, I tested the CD204 against my T+A DVD1210R, which is a rather modern DVD-Player from the 2000 Euro range. I bought that one new in 2002 and it bested players like Marantz CD16, Micromega Stage 3, Teac VRDS25x, T+A CD1230R and a few others in my system.
It was quite a shock when the unmodified CD204 was roughly equal to the T+A, with a more accurate bass, better PRAT and an overall more natural sound. The T+A was superior in highlighting small details, soundstage depth, bass impact and resolution. We both found the T+A to be the more audiophile player but the CD204 was more engaging. When you consider that the T+A was using a pretty good aftermarket power chord and a 400 Euro RCA cable while the Philips stuck to its build in power and RCA cables, you can call that was an incredible result.
Now I will start my first CDP tuning with the CD204 which will consist of:
1. New gold plated RCA sockets and an IEC socket with mains filter,
2. Damping of the enclosure with bituminised felt and substituting the ultra thin bottom plate with a 5 mm aluminium plate,
3. Resoldering all the griplets and changing the old decoupling caps on the PCBs to Sanyo OC-CON,
4. Replacing the decoupling caps on both TDA1540 with Wima MKS or MKP,
5. Doing a NOS conversion
6. Changing the NE5532 to LM6172, THS4031, OPA2132 or OPA2134,
7. Using a high quality film cap as DC blocking cap instead of the old one.
Afterwards, I might be adding a separate power supply for the CD drive, the clock, the op-amps, the DA converters and what else might have an impact on the sound.
But as I have never done any modifications to my audio equipment before, there are some areas of doubt. My questions are:
1. What is a good cap in the power supply?
2. What is a good size for the decoupling caps for the TDA1540?
3. Can someone please send me a copy of the complete CD104/CD204 schematics to stefan.runge@post.rwth-aachen.de?
The TDA1540 in this CD204 uses:
• 0,47 uF on pin 12,
• 0,22 uF on pin 13,
• 0,1 uF on pin 14,
• 0,047 uF on pin 18,
• 0,022 uF on pin 19,
• 0,01 uF on pin 20 to 25
All are of the through hole type and no SMD parts. This will make soldering easier and there is more space, too. What do you suggest – increasing the size of the decoupling caps to double, triple or four times the size? What kind of caps have you used and what other modifications do make sense?
I do not want to use an aftermarket clock as I think that it is not the clock that increases the performance in the first place, but the separate power supply for the clock that helps to keep clock noise away from the rest of the circuit.
Best regard,
StefanAC
Before you go anywhere with caps sort out the power supply first.
If you do a cap swap before the power supply you will be listening to the power supply, and are therefore more likely to end up smoothing the raw sound with smooth caps.
if you fix the power supply first, clean up the dac supply, op-amp supplys and the clock supply then what you hear before the cap swap will be closer to the truth.
At least that works for me, I end up swapping less caps this way round.
If you do a cap swap before the power supply you will be listening to the power supply, and are therefore more likely to end up smoothing the raw sound with smooth caps.
if you fix the power supply first, clean up the dac supply, op-amp supplys and the clock supply then what you hear before the cap swap will be closer to the truth.
At least that works for me, I end up swapping less caps this way round.
Sorting the standard power supply was going to be my first task concerning the cap swap! After that, I will go for the decoupling caps near the individual consumers and the decoupling caps of the TDA1540. But first of all mods will be the RCA swap and the damping mods…
Any idea on cap size for the TDA1540? A member of this forum told me the values of his CD150 (SMD) and my CD204 (through hole) uses:
• pin 12: 470nF (through hole) vs. 200nF (SMD)
• pin 13: 220nF (through hole) vs. 200nF (SMD)
• pin 14: 100nF (through hole) vs. 100nF (SMD)
• pin 18: 47nF (through hole) vs. 100nF (SMD)
• pin 19: 22nF (through hole) vs. 100nF (SMD)
• pin 20 to 25: 10nF (through hole) vs. 47nF (SMD)
By the way – can someone please send me the complete 12MB manual of the CD104 or CD204 to stefan.runge@post.rwth-aachen.de?
Best regards,
StefanAC
Any idea on cap size for the TDA1540? A member of this forum told me the values of his CD150 (SMD) and my CD204 (through hole) uses:
• pin 12: 470nF (through hole) vs. 200nF (SMD)
• pin 13: 220nF (through hole) vs. 200nF (SMD)
• pin 14: 100nF (through hole) vs. 100nF (SMD)
• pin 18: 47nF (through hole) vs. 100nF (SMD)
• pin 19: 22nF (through hole) vs. 100nF (SMD)
• pin 20 to 25: 10nF (through hole) vs. 47nF (SMD)
By the way – can someone please send me the complete 12MB manual of the CD104 or CD204 to stefan.runge@post.rwth-aachen.de?
Best regards,
StefanAC