Philips CD104 tweaks

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#341
DoomPixie said:
hey,
i just got given an old gray/silver philips cd104 but there is a problem with it, it will play the first three tracks but that is all, it only recognises the first three tracks..
Could this be a problem with the throughholes or mabey i need to clean the mechanism that moves the laser? or is it more likley to be something completely different?
any chance someone could send me the schematics for it aswell?
Cheers,
Owen
Click to expand...


HI.

This should be interesting.

I have just bought a CD104 off EBAY with the same symptoms !!!

Watch this space.

Andy
 
#342
hi,theres a guy on www.ebay.co.uk who's user name is wahee uk who is selling the complete schematics and I think a service engineers report and advice on repair of the cd 104 for just over £5 including u.k. P&P,I got one awhile back and it seems comprehensive and the engineers advice is very helpfull,do a serch for philips cd 104 in all catergories when you get onto the ebay site.

Hope this helps

malcolm
 
#346
I'm ok at the moment without the manual, i'm just geting used to it as it is to start with, i have managed to salvage some nice low esr 100uF Panasonic cap's from a dead motherboard i salvaged from the local computer shop's bins.. date code says the motherboard is about 5 months old and the cap's tested good so in a couple of days i'll swap the op-amp decoupling cap's with these and remove the output cap's and see if i notice any differance. But i plan to just start with some simple mod's like this useing components i have in my parts bin's.
Owen
 
#350
CD104 Power Supply Mod

Hi all,

In my battle against EMp, I saw that the 7812 and the 7805 are fitted directly on the heathsink without any isolation, alongside the 7912 and the 7906 which do have isolation.

I have never seen a more beautiful EMp sensitive groundloop in a power supply like this! :bawling:

Between the heathsink and the 7812 and 7805, simply put a mica isolation like what the 7912 and 7906 have.

The heathsink is grounded on the power PCB via 2 bolts. Make it so that only one bolt is used for grounding. Cut the ground line on the PCB under the bolt or put an isolation ring between the bolt and the PCB.

Be sure that the chassis and housing etc. are only grounded via the heathsink and that single bolt.

This mod costs nothing, only 2 micas, and has an enormous effect against EMp!

Onno
 
#351
cd104 tweaks - summary..

hi ..

this is a great thread, very interesting but it's got so long i've become confused about the most effective, easiest to DIY and cheapest...

I have two CD104's an early silver door model and a black door model, both work perfectly so I'd love to start making some simple mods and do a comparison with a stock one.

I'm not very experienced in this though so does any one fancy making a clear list of useful mods, with maybe the parts listed like in one of the Marantz threads?

adrian
 
#353
Re: cd104 tweaks - summary..

adyf said:
hi ..

this is a great thread, very interesting but it's got so long i've become confused about the most effective, easiest to DIY and cheapest...

I have two CD104's an early silver door model and a black door model, both work perfectly so I'd love to start making some simple mods and do a comparison with a stock one.

I'm not very experienced in this though so does any one fancy making a clear list of useful mods, with maybe the parts listed like in one of the Marantz threads?

adrian
Click to expand...

summarising a thread is a tall order. I have followed this one and would say that it breaks down between

1) Tweaks to improve sound

2) Maintenance work to keep these old beasts running (the dreaded griplets)

if you have 2 players that are working then you may want to ignore 2) but I predict eventually you will need to visit this issue

option 1) breaks down along fairly straightforward lines


a) Cap replacement

b) Opamps replacement

c) new I/V circuit

d) Convert to NOS

e) Convert to 16 bit


I started and stopped at a) . For me the goal was to keep the player working and retain it's particular sound. Others have gone much further and I respect that, but I stopped .

I removed the DC blocker caps (my preamp performs this function) and replaced with wires. You may need to replace them with something (Blackgates) but there is not much space. Nitais worked for me in my preamp and are cheap and small

The next thing I did was replace the caps which provide the +/- 12v supply to the opamps . I replaced with cerafines of similar value.

I went on to replace all the digital supply decoupling caps on the two main boards with oscons, but band for buck I'd say the first two things were the most significant. These mods are typically what the Marantz SE versions had done.
 
#355
Another newbie here. This thread inspired me to take my old CD204 (btw labelled as Aristona brand) from the attic where it has been for 10 years! Glad I still have the old beast. This one is having similar problems as described by other people here. Warming up should be at least 30 minutes. Since it is already open I also intend to do some further tweaks. Therefore can anyone please mail me the service manual?

Bernard
 
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