Hello abraxalito, this kit looks very promising and the reviews are great as well.
For a noob like me who has never SMD before, would it be possible to buy prebuilt boards?
Also, to make this a USB DAC to connect to a PC, I'd a need a USB interface, correct?
Thanks
For a noob like me who has never SMD before, would it be possible to buy prebuilt boards?
Also, to make this a USB DAC to connect to a PC, I'd a need a USB interface, correct?
Thanks
Hi Ben - those TP6 and TP8 voltages are for when no filter has been plugged in. I wanted to know what you get with the filter in-circuit. For the resistors, on mine I get 16mV for R50 and 12mV for R31. Yours sound close enough.
<afterthought> If you're getting the voltages you just reported with the filter in it means the filter isn't being connected correctly - check its not misaligned with the 20way sockets (not too hard to do) and also that the 20way sockets are fully soldered.
It was indeed a filter issue. I did check TP6 with the filter in. Had I compared it to TP5 I might have realized something was off sooner. Turns out one of the inductor wire had come loose. I soldered it up and it's back in business.
I didn't get much listening time in yet and not on my main system, but so far I am loving it. Thanks again for your help!
Pleased to hear you're loving it, a little bit perturbed that the inductor wire got loose though. Any more details on that (not urgent, when you can drag yourself away from the music) ? I'm just curious to see if there's any way to prevent that issue recurring.
For a noob like me who has never SMD before, would it be possible to buy prebuilt boards?
Also, to make this a USB DAC to connect to a PC, I'd a need a USB interface, correct?
Hi chocoman - sorry I didn't catch your post earlier, seems I'm missing notifications on this thread. Yes pre-built DAC boards are available, at 200rmb over the price of a kit (i.e. 680rmb).
To make it connect to a PC a USB interface is the most common way of doing it. But PCs are rather noisy brutes and sometimes there's a Toslink (optical SPDIF) output on the motherboard, if you have one it would be better to use that because of the isolation it brings about.
Pleased to hear you're loving it, a little bit perturbed that the inductor wire got loose though. Any more details on that (not urgent, when you can drag yourself away from the music) ? I'm just curious to see if there's any way to prevent that issue recurring.
Looked like it was just a cold solder joint where one of the wires attached, so nothing major.
@abraxalito: Hey Richard, what variants of the DAC boards (like SMD and through hole, 3rd and 7th order filter, etc..) are available and what is the procedure to order them?
I'm interested in two orders.
I'm interested in two orders.
Hi Ktks - sorry for the delay, I didn't get notification of your post.
The variations are - you can order a kit or fully built & tested. You can choose between 3rd and 7th order filter. That's it - no options between SMD/TH.
The ordering procedure is PM me with which options you want plus your location and preferred way to pay. Then I can quote you a price including delivery.
The variations are - you can order a kit or fully built & tested. You can choose between 3rd and 7th order filter. That's it - no options between SMD/TH.
The ordering procedure is PM me with which options you want plus your location and preferred way to pay. Then I can quote you a price including delivery.
Hello abraxalito,
My PhiDac Step 1 is done.
Would you be so kind to advise on how to hook it up to the Whammy headphone amplifier for power?
Whammy is in the standard LED config with transformer 15vx2.
I have received from you PhiDeca DAC kit with S/PDIF board and 2 regulators - one (15.2V) for the DAC and the other (10V) for the S/PDIF board.
Thank you in advance!
My PhiDac Step 1 is done.
Would you be so kind to advise on how to hook it up to the Whammy headphone amplifier for power?
Whammy is in the standard LED config with transformer 15vx2.
I have received from you PhiDeca DAC kit with S/PDIF board and 2 regulators - one (15.2V) for the DAC and the other (10V) for the S/PDIF board.
Thank you in advance!
Hi Youri, sorry for the delay, still no notifications.
Looking at the schematic here : https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/diyaudio/vDsfwJs1hewo2gis.huge the +ve rail power output is across C9. So you can power the Phi DecaDAC by running wires from C9, the +ve to the +ve side of the cap and GND to the -ve side.
Using the LED version the output voltage should be around 17V so no need for the regulator board I included.
Looking at the schematic here : https://d17kynu4zpq5hy.cloudfront.net/igi/diyaudio/vDsfwJs1hewo2gis.huge the +ve rail power output is across C9. So you can power the Phi DecaDAC by running wires from C9, the +ve to the +ve side of the cap and GND to the -ve side.
Using the LED version the output voltage should be around 17V so no need for the regulator board I included.
Thanks to Richard I am now in the Phidecadac club! I ordered a built board but now realise that the majority of the smd are presoldered in the fab house so maybe I could have managed the rest of the components!
Looking forward to hooking it up. I have a cheap DIR9001 board, an AK4118 board and also I have one of Miros design pcbs to populate which is a WM8804. A few options there. Generally I use optical spdif input from a chromecast audio. I'm not really a USB man but in my main dac for now the source is Rpi and Ians Fifo.
Will be comparing this to Ians dual ess dac and also my Miro AD1862. I have high hopes from what I've read on here and also I think I do like a good implementation of these early chips.
I have a spare single Salas Ubib and also recently built up a denoiser LM317 psu so I have a couple options.
Looking forward to hooking it up. I have a cheap DIR9001 board, an AK4118 board and also I have one of Miros design pcbs to populate which is a WM8804. A few options there. Generally I use optical spdif input from a chromecast audio. I'm not really a USB man but in my main dac for now the source is Rpi and Ians Fifo.
Will be comparing this to Ians dual ess dac and also my Miro AD1862. I have high hopes from what I've read on here and also I think I do like a good implementation of these early chips.
I have a spare single Salas Ubib and also recently built up a denoiser LM317 psu so I have a couple options.
Attachments
Just finished my PhiDeca Dac. Wow very nice sounding DAC. It was fun and easy to build. Now I just have to put it into a case.
Thanks for the fun project
Debra
Thanks for the fun project
Debra
Indeed Debra look forward to seeing it.
Richard.....I just 'Jerry rigged' it up a while ago to prove to myself I could get it working with the i2s board I had....and yes I could! Didn't doubt the DAC but was a first foray into i2s for me. Had some sub par psu so I need to get it properly set up. Hopefully soon! Too many projects....not enough time!
Richard.....I just 'Jerry rigged' it up a while ago to prove to myself I could get it working with the i2s board I had....and yes I could! Didn't doubt the DAC but was a first foray into i2s for me. Had some sub par psu so I need to get it properly set up. Hopefully soon! Too many projects....not enough time!
My PhiDeca Dac in a temporary Chassis. Power supply is an AMB labs sigma 11 in a separate chassis
Debra
Debra
Looking good - so the USB board rests on the top-right inductor core? Or is that just a trick of the light?
It is just above it. The setup is temporary I am having some panels made for a case that will have both the USB and SPDIF boards
So I'm getting a rig going hopefully this weekend. Test voltages all good. Using Salas Ubib for the 20v, set just over. Will check for any drift this evening.
Using an 18v tap for Ubib. 9v tap for the Chinese LT1963 that I shall use to pre reg the digital receiver. So 5v5 into that. Then 2 LT3o42 Chinese purple regs st 3v3 for the 2 rails in the receiver. Basically WM8804 and the receiver and crystal . I used some ferrites to isolate the 2. Dont really know or understand what I'm doing!
Hopefully a listening test this weekend. Happy new year all!
Using an 18v tap for Ubib. 9v tap for the Chinese LT1963 that I shall use to pre reg the digital receiver. So 5v5 into that. Then 2 LT3o42 Chinese purple regs st 3v3 for the 2 rails in the receiver. Basically WM8804 and the receiver and crystal . I used some ferrites to isolate the 2. Dont really know or understand what I'm doing!
Hopefully a listening test this weekend. Happy new year all!
On the bubble wrap ....i have noticed magnetism in the granite worktop so isolation seems prudent.!
How's the bubble wrap for static?On the bubble wrap ....i have noticed magnetism in the granite worktop so isolation seems prudent.!
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