Very Interesting, I didn't know you don't have true 3-phase in nord america.
I often read about star wiring, an never really got why someone needs to do that at home.
We have almost only star wiring everywhere in europe.
Impossible the PC is about 12m away from the audio equitment.
Yes, the PC and the Amps have a grounded case.
All my grounds are connected together in the breaker box.
I have 60V Potential between the HDMI cable comming from the TV ground and the PC case.
The Amps have a transformer and rectifier diodes, no SMPS.
What exactly do you want to know?
Which side would you recommend to lift the ground?
Good drawing! That 60V potential difference gives it away. I would not hot plug any HDMI connector in such a case. I see this often (even sparking connectors when plugging in/out) and it also can be solved quite simple but not now as I have to do other stuff.
I've had IEC filters cause ground currents, when we lost a bonding jumper the entire chassis floated up because of the hot to ground capacitor. Typically 1 or 2 milliamps through the ground, not enough to set off a GFCI.
Seems one of the two two prong devices may have capacitance to chassis and floats the chassis, including the HDMI.
john
Seems one of the two two prong devices may have capacitance to chassis and floats the chassis, including the HDMI.
john
I think the main thing is to run dedicated circuits to each location you are concerned with ground loops, if you keep them on the same leg you should have no major issues. The other issue with noise is to make sure anything with a motor is not on the leg that your audio equipment is on. So in the US I have 2 legs, and I have all of my motors, AC, fridge, freezer, dryer in one leg and consumer devices on the other. Get close to ideal as you can on that and if you can't do that chose things that won't be on most of the time or times when you listen.
You could also run a subpanel and make sure the ground is 100%, you can run your own ground rod too! You can run another ground rod at your main panel, have your contractor check for ground potential, you can watch YouTube vidos on how to check for this. I have never done it but the videos make it look straight forward.
Depending on how crazy you want to get you could likely run an isolator and run your circuits directly from there, or plug this into its own little subpanel.
Most places have decent power but if you have noise or are concerned with ground there are ways to combat this.
You could also run a subpanel and make sure the ground is 100%, you can run your own ground rod too! You can run another ground rod at your main panel, have your contractor check for ground potential, you can watch YouTube vidos on how to check for this. I have never done it but the videos make it look straight forward.
Depending on how crazy you want to get you could likely run an isolator and run your circuits directly from there, or plug this into its own little subpanel.
Most places have decent power but if you have noise or are concerned with ground there are ways to combat this.
Have you checked your components with a John Windt "Hummer Tester" ?
The tester was in the same June 1995 AES Journal as the "Pin 1 Problem" paper.
Off-topic, but...
It is not normally run to houses. Koda's diagram clearly shows "single phase laterals" feeding 120V/240V "split phase" to the individual residences/apartments. My 2-mile street has about 60 houses. They run a partial 3-phase from the city to my street, then only one of those phases comes past my house. At 20kV, so they step-down to 120/240V.
The fish-warehouse, schools, the city sewage plant, the supermarkets get 3-phase, mostly at 400V unless a special need. In the past 120/208 was VERY convenient for our 120V lighting (but very confusing for 240V coolers). The SuperWalmart may have that 347V lighting (it is a huge ceiling) but it is generally rare here.
We invented 3-phase systems. Steinmetz. I see he may not have invented 3-ph but he sure wrote all the early math and applications.
It is not normally run to houses. Koda's diagram clearly shows "single phase laterals" feeding 120V/240V "split phase" to the individual residences/apartments. My 2-mile street has about 60 houses. They run a partial 3-phase from the city to my street, then only one of those phases comes past my house. At 20kV, so they step-down to 120/240V.
The fish-warehouse, schools, the city sewage plant, the supermarkets get 3-phase, mostly at 400V unless a special need. In the past 120/208 was VERY convenient for our 120V lighting (but very confusing for 240V coolers). The SuperWalmart may have that 347V lighting (it is a huge ceiling) but it is generally rare here.
WTF?
The current definitly comes from the Amplifiers.
Partly, but they still have some direct connections, DC voltage, shield and some others.
I learned that Nikola Tesla did that, but doesnt accually matter 😀
Very interesting that there are so much different Voltages.
In Austria we have big Transformers every few hundret meters, they step down 3~20kV to 3~400V and from there it's distributed to surrounding houses.
And that's the only voltage we have. Only very small apartments in cities get single phases.
And some really big industrial buildings get 3~690V but they have their own transformers or even power plants sometimes.
But back to my problem, I would like to lift the chassis ground of my Amplifiers properly, like all the marantz stuff is Isolatet, I don't really get how they do that, since the chassis is copper plated metal, but there must be a way.
The thing is, if I get rid of the ground loop on the PC side, I still got the bad potential on the HDMI cable which is sometimes also a problem for the picturte, since it's HDMI 2.1, it's very sensitive.