I try to design the general purpose board so I can experiment jumping from 3EF to 2EF, jumping out the error correction circuit, jumping out the current mirror of the IPS etc. Hack, I even consider jumpering out the symmetrical VAS and and getting rid of one side of the complementary IPS and see how it affects the sound. So by default, I plan to rework many times with the one set of boards instead of making different run of boards. So this is critical for me. Of cause, if you build in production, it doesn't matter.
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Thanks, that's the answer I am looking for, not why I need to rework so many times!!!
I read good reviews here, so I am going to sent my gerber over for a bid.
Thanks
If you think you can just jumper out sections of the board and get representative performance from the rest of it you are mistaken. Audio layout is critical. Including extra pathways will just make it more difficult or impossible to achieve an optimal layout.
Go and look at tomchr's Taming the LM3886 Chip Amplifier
You will see how critical changes of only a few millimetres in the length of a track can significantly affect performance.
general purpose==not the best in all circumstances
watch the plated through hole (under) sizing for re-workability, I reckon the electroplating processes separates the boys from the men. It's like making French fries over and over , keep the oil fresh. LOL
Had done many circuits in hundreds of MHz and never had problem. It's all about the layout. These audio layout cannot be more critical than RF.
No?
RF circuits are built to meet a specification. You have no specification, other than 'the best possible'. You won't get that with a GP layout.
These power amps are just discrete circuit of an opamp. I design analog IC and did this every day for a few years. I know what is important. You layout according to what signal is more critical, you spend a lot of time in placing the components in the best possible locations.
The only specification I know is minimum cross talk between signal path, minimal parasitic created by the trace. You want to circuit to be like what's in the schematic, not adding unwanted paths!!!
I use the quick quote for 10 pieces of 10.6" X 1.8" pcb from pcbway.com:
1) $65 total including shipping to US for 1.6mm thick.
2) $107 total including shipping to US for 2.0mm thick.
Is this for real? This is cheap big time!!! Or am I out of touch!!!
1) $65 total including shipping to US for 1.6mm thick.
2) $107 total including shipping to US for 2.0mm thick.
Is this for real? This is cheap big time!!! Or am I out of touch!!!
It's an "indication" only, Alan 😉
Depending on what you want in terms of finishing (lead free or not), etc, various other factors come into account.
In my case, I fell into their 10 boards less than 100mm x 100mm for $43 shipped for a HASL lead-free version. Ended up paying $58...
But it's still cheap!
You will get assigned an agent who will manage your order. Language can be an issue; keep it to really simple English, making sure there are no possible mis-interpretations possible. But if your requirements are straight forward and not exotic, it's fine. My complications arose from wanting a board split in two...
If you submit your design / gerber files to the agent, they'll check with the engineers / lab and give you an exact quote. They also charge a little extra for paying by paypal ($3 IIRC)
Depending on what you want in terms of finishing (lead free or not), etc, various other factors come into account.
In my case, I fell into their 10 boards less than 100mm x 100mm for $43 shipped for a HASL lead-free version. Ended up paying $58...
But it's still cheap!
You will get assigned an agent who will manage your order. Language can be an issue; keep it to really simple English, making sure there are no possible mis-interpretations possible. But if your requirements are straight forward and not exotic, it's fine. My complications arose from wanting a board split in two...
If you submit your design / gerber files to the agent, they'll check with the engineers / lab and give you an exact quote. They also charge a little extra for paying by paypal ($3 IIRC)
Thanks for the quick answer. Ha ha, language is not a problem, I am Chinese!!!😀
I just want the cheapest possible, I don't want lead free, this is not for sale, just for me only. I don't want splitting of boards, no complicate arrangement, just straight 2 layers, 7 drill sizes, no cut out, simple rectangular boards. The only thing for me is I want a little thicker than 1.6mm, so I am willing to pay extra for the 2mm. 2.4mm is $160, that's a little stiff.
Thanks
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Ah fair enough. Careful though, you could easily end up with others asking for your help in minimising any translation issues 😀
But they are good-willed and helpful. I've been happy with the boards, and they've resisted my botched reworking so far - I'm new to working lead-free and it's a little trickier. Must work on my technique. Also need a smaller solder tip I guess to be able to "get in the hole" more (I'm still PTH).
Not that I want to derail this thread, but do you know of any good resources for techniques on improving soldering skills, particularly lead-free? The last time I played around was years ago with home-made boards where lead was allowed and it was simple phototransfers, so no plating through holes, etc...
But they are good-willed and helpful. I've been happy with the boards, and they've resisted my botched reworking so far - I'm new to working lead-free and it's a little trickier. Must work on my technique. Also need a smaller solder tip I guess to be able to "get in the hole" more (I'm still PTH).
Not that I want to derail this thread, but do you know of any good resources for techniques on improving soldering skills, particularly lead-free? The last time I played around was years ago with home-made boards where lead was allowed and it was simple phototransfers, so no plating through holes, etc...
I assume you are beyond beginners already. So I really don't know what resources for intermediate and advanced level soldering. Check on youtube.
I have been doing soldering my whole career, but I never deal with lead free as I retired 9 years ago already. I always use big tip and 800 deg C. I use Weller soldering station with 2mm wide 800 deg C. To me, the key is to do it fast. Big tip melt things fast and you solder fast. To me, using a 700 deg pencil tip take a lot longer to heat up, solder don't flow as well. Just a lot of practice. I only use small tips for SMD stuff, those are totally different animal.
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Thanks for the tips (pun intended! 😀). I have a temp controlled station, will try upping the temp (currently set to around 340 deg C).
I was wrong, it's 800 deg F. This is the one I have .http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004W463...260852&sr=1&keywords=weller+soldering+station
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Just ordered another batch of boards.
This time, I uploaded my design to their website. Then I emailed my contact giving her the order number the website gave me.
Within a few minutes, she responded, confirming design was OK to manufacture and provided the total price ($43 - 18 for boards + 25 for shipping).
I've now paid and the boards are now going into production.
A very smooth experience this time round (so far!) 🙂
This time, I uploaded my design to their website. Then I emailed my contact giving her the order number the website gave me.
Within a few minutes, she responded, confirming design was OK to manufacture and provided the total price ($43 - 18 for boards + 25 for shipping).
I've now paid and the boards are now going into production.
A very smooth experience this time round (so far!) 🙂
I'll soon have my 3rd batch of orders from PCBway in hand, depending on the usual slow shipping issues from China to the USA.I've sent in 6 orders this time. This should be a very interesting experience because some of these are usual orders that require someone to speak English well to understand. For example, one order is a purely mechanical control panel... (no traces , either blank stock or all copper etched away, black solder mask, and a pretty complex silkscreen. ) If they get this right I'll be shocked, but if they don't that will be instructive too. Because frankly, my rep (Michael) obviously has trouble understanding my emails, even when I try my best to write very simply. So the bigger issue will not be whether they get the order right, but what the process is like when they need to MAKE it right. Either way, I do wish they would understand how much a single GOOD translator could boost their business.
Haha, I actually had a question come back to me regarding one of my PCBs that didn't have anything on one side.
To be fair, they queried it because the gerber files had one board which I wanted splitting into two rather than supplying two seperate files asking "but the smaller PCB doesn't have any silkscreen or traces, there's just a pour?!?" To which I said "just do it as you want, either poured or empty, I don't mind". And then it was fine, they did it to spec.
But I fully agree. Getting a few good English-speaking people able to answer emails from the international market would be a real bonus and confidence-boosting move. If all you want is something traditional and "been done before", it's fine, but as soon as you have something out of the ordinary, communication becomes an issue.
To be fair, they queried it because the gerber files had one board which I wanted splitting into two rather than supplying two seperate files asking "but the smaller PCB doesn't have any silkscreen or traces, there's just a pour?!?" To which I said "just do it as you want, either poured or empty, I don't mind". And then it was fine, they did it to spec.
But I fully agree. Getting a few good English-speaking people able to answer emails from the international market would be a real bonus and confidence-boosting move. If all you want is something traditional and "been done before", it's fine, but as soon as you have something out of the ordinary, communication becomes an issue.
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