Looks like these bulbs will heat up the electrolytic output capacitors, which are placed above the bulbs. Better mount them so they are out of the way of "heat-wave", or put the bulbs outside the box...
Yeah - I know. I just need to bend the legs on the mosfet to move them out of the way. I should add that the interior of the box gets to about 50-53 degC pretty evenly all over the box.
Hey - its a burnin amp ain't it!!
Hey - its a burnin amp ain't it!!
just a dumb question
for the 1 ohm resistor on the source, what wattage should this resistor be?
thanks!
for the 1 ohm resistor on the source, what wattage should this resistor be?
thanks!
Well, its dropping 1.6V roughly across the 1R, which works out at 2.56 watts, so best go for at least a 5W one. I think teabag offered 20W caddocks in the group buy.....
Fran
Fran
It would depend on voltage and current . I think 5 watts is too small. I would use 10W minimum.
Just completed a Delite Amp, 75V DC, 2 X 110V 500W light bulb🙂
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Hi Nelson, Absolutely....
Many fellow music lover in Singapore loved this particular amp design of yours.
A big thank you to you for this precious gift.
Many fellow music lover in Singapore loved this particular amp design of yours.
A big thank you to you for this precious gift.
i'm getting some hum here too.OK,
Its been singing for the past couple of hours and sounding pretty good, although only on crappy mission speakers in the workshop. It took 3 halogen sticks per channel - a total of 1300W each side!! So maybe a kettle element each side would have been good too.
The stats are:
50V secondary, 47V output under load. 22-23V before the output cap. 1.6V across the source resistor..... all seems good. Fets get to ~60degC on the cases, heatsinks are at 53degC - about 30-35 above ambient. So all seems pretty good really!
I do have one problem though - teabag are your reading this!! - I have some hum. Its not very loud (of course thats on relatively insensitive speakers) but will need to be fixed. So it looks like I might need an extra RC stage or something if you are correct teabag - i think you ended up doing that too, right?
Fran
you're using 1300W of 240V halogen sticks?? i'm doing fine with one 500W 110V halogen stick per channel 😱
I know - I think in the article Nelson specc'd a 300W bulb. However, I didn;t get any voltage after the bulbs until I went over 1000W.
I guess there's differences in how each bulb reacts, and 110V ones must be significantly different than 240V ones (not linear relationship?).
Anyway, I'm kinda thinking that it must be right because it's working AOK!!
Fran
I guess there's differences in how each bulb reacts, and 110V ones must be significantly different than 240V ones (not linear relationship?).
Anyway, I'm kinda thinking that it must be right because it's working AOK!!
Fran
The 120V lamps have much lower resistance than 240. I would
expect that a 1200 watt 240V bulb would have been the
proper replacement.
😎
expect that a 1200 watt 240V bulb would have been the
proper replacement.
😎
Which fits pretty neatly with my 1300W setup....
To be honest I'm pretty surprised no-one else has done this before. Am I the only one in 240V land to have built this? 🙂
To be honest I'm pretty surprised no-one else has done this before. Am I the only one in 240V land to have built this? 🙂
I bet it sounds as good as it looks.
And it looks great. What a beautiful build. Bravo Tony!
Which fits pretty neatly with my 1300W setup....
I used 1500w 220v halogen sticks with my F2-lite. As Nelson said, in order to get similar current with 220v bulbs (compared to 110v) you need roughly 4X more wattage...
p.s. He used 600w bulbs in one of his zen-lite-s, so that would be 2400w for 220v ones. Hm...how 'bout big panel with 40 pieces x 60w 220v bulbs, hanged on the wall? Anyone did this?😀
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