Hi RollE2k,
many thanks for your reply. PSU case S2609 I´ve found with that seller earlier, but overruled because I didn´t manage to find 10.0000 µF/ 50V caps that fit. The only ones i´ve found are 10.000µF/ 35 V
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/...0-mm-SLG109M035S1A5T30K-1-St?ref=searchDetail
With my fist build I went for Panasonic TS-HA.
On other hand the quality of those big Caps shouldn´t be that challenging as long as the 1µF foil cap is choosen in appropriate (high) quality (any good quality MKP should be salving our consciences) and because those caps aren´t the last one in in the power supply chain.
Said this with respect to the caps quality in the regulator section on signal boards beeing more relevant and something essential for the sounds improvement.
Which caps did you go for?
many thanks for your reply. PSU case S2609 I´ve found with that seller earlier, but overruled because I didn´t manage to find 10.0000 µF/ 50V caps that fit. The only ones i´ve found are 10.000µF/ 35 V
http://www.conrad.de/ce/de/product/...0-mm-SLG109M035S1A5T30K-1-St?ref=searchDetail
With my fist build I went for Panasonic TS-HA.
On other hand the quality of those big Caps shouldn´t be that challenging as long as the 1µF foil cap is choosen in appropriate (high) quality (any good quality MKP should be salving our consciences) and because those caps aren´t the last one in in the power supply chain.
Said this with respect to the caps quality in the regulator section on signal boards beeing more relevant and something essential for the sounds improvement.
Which caps did you go for?
For the pre-regulator, the Epcos caps are very good and come in two different heights, i can just squeeze the 10,000f 50v into my cases. I'm tempted to try the big Russian polystyrene caps in the 1uf position, just for laughs..
For the signal boards Panasonic FK are about as good as it gets for the big decoupling caps. Around the shunt, 100uf/16 and 10uf/16 the new Wurth and Sanyo Organic polymer caps are very good indeed. For the 25v anything cheap works.
I think the contribution to overall sound of the caps around the shunt is actually quite small. As long as it's stable- but every bit helps.
For the signal boards Panasonic FK are about as good as it gets for the big decoupling caps. Around the shunt, 100uf/16 and 10uf/16 the new Wurth and Sanyo Organic polymer caps are very good indeed. For the 25v anything cheap works.
I think the contribution to overall sound of the caps around the shunt is actually quite small. As long as it's stable- but every bit helps.
So just assuming for one crazy minute that one either had the time or the inclination to split out the voltage rails on their Paradise by adding in a second shunt reg. Where might the most logical insertion point be.
Should i separately power the Calvin boards, or split the voltage rail elsewhere?
Should i separately power the Calvin boards, or split the voltage rail elsewhere?
For the pre-regulator, the Epcos caps are very good and come in two different heights, i can just squeeze the 10,000f 50v into my cases. I'm tempted to try the big Russian polystyrene caps in the 1uf position, just for laughs..
For the signal boards Panasonic FK are about as good as it gets for the big decoupling caps. Around the shunt, 100uf/16 and 10uf/16 the new Wurth and Sanyo Organic polymer caps are very good indeed. For the 25v anything cheap works.
I think the contribution to overall sound of the caps around the shunt is actually quite small. As long as it's stable- but every bit helps.
Panasonic LowESR are always a good choice, but the Frolyt types are on par with them.
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Hello!
I just got these - ECO-S1HP103EA Panasonic | Mouser
I'm not a big believer in higher end DC-filter caps, if you have film caps afterwards, i may be wrong - but i cannot hear any difference myself.
380LX103M050A022 are avalible at mouser today, that also fits.
Hi RollE2k,
thanks for your reply.
Both types you mentioned are actually sold out at Digikey and Mouser. The Panasonic shall be re-stocked until october.
Well, unfortunately I was convinced by some friends showing me the difference with LCLC filtering and using oil filled metalized paper caps only. Prior to that I didn´t hear and measure any difference by changing caps or bridging electrolytics with film, silver mica or paper in oil caps.
Since then I´m paying attention taking caps with higher quality and I´m something "addicted" to oil filled MPs and the PIO ones. But those types aren´t feasible and reasonable for the Paradise build.
thanks for your reply.
Both types you mentioned are actually sold out at Digikey and Mouser. The Panasonic shall be re-stocked until october.
Well, unfortunately I was convinced by some friends showing me the difference with LCLC filtering and using oil filled metalized paper caps only. Prior to that I didn´t hear and measure any difference by changing caps or bridging electrolytics with film, silver mica or paper in oil caps.
Since then I´m paying attention taking caps with higher quality and I´m something "addicted" to oil filled MPs and the PIO ones. But those types aren´t feasible and reasonable for the Paradise build.
First stage then mirrors Calvin buffer and Servo so possibly 4 but
definetley the servo IMO
No problem mate!
Actually i have never tried LC filtering even tough i mostly build tube small signal amps. But i pretty much always bypass the electrolytics by 0,1uF film caps in the psu section.
I've heard good things about the mundorf supreeme there, but never tried them.
Also, i usually go for schottky rectifiers rather than tubes, this can also be one big difference, since you can then use larger first cap.
I´ve build a paradise with preregulator power supply some time ago. Components used came with the group buy; thus resitors used are Vishay Dale. OF course I´m very satisfied with the Paradise, even when it´s not the only one phono stage I´m using.
In addition I have a set of boards and a bunch of components and matched transitors that are wainting for the next build up.
Now I´m wondering what resitors I should go for? Shall I go for those non-magnetic Vishay Dale again or for PRP, Takman metal film or those exotic Shinkoh tantalums?
Can anyone please describe what might change on the sound side when those resitors are used?
In addition I have a set of boards and a bunch of components and matched transitors that are wainting for the next build up.
Now I´m wondering what resitors I should go for? Shall I go for those non-magnetic Vishay Dale again or for PRP, Takman metal film or those exotic Shinkoh tantalums?
Can anyone please describe what might change on the sound side when those resitors are used?
You can custom order vishay z-foil for the riaa section?
I have been thinking about custom order them for my Paradise, they are supposed to give a bit more detailed sound from what i have read. Shinkoh's should be a bit warmer sounding. Will see if i do this later, to much work with our house right now!
I have been thinking about custom order them for my Paradise, they are supposed to give a bit more detailed sound from what i have read. Shinkoh's should be a bit warmer sounding. Will see if i do this later, to much work with our house right now!
Shinkoh typically have a warmth to them, not fuzzy, just Warm. The naked Vishay's are cleaner and starker sounding. Both of these are very slight effects.
Don't forget to use the same for your cartridge loading resistor and the 10k that runs to the 100k trimpot if you're totally going for it.
Frankly I'm not sure the Vishay's are worth the money in this usage.
Don't forget to use the same for your cartridge loading resistor and the 10k that runs to the 100k trimpot if you're totally going for it.
Frankly I'm not sure the Vishay's are worth the money in this usage.