I’ll ask him what car exactly is it, it’s a new-ish jeep but I don’t know the exact model.
I can always close up or the port to get a closed box. I think that some fiddling with a variable length port and response + impedance measurements during that will give me the best result suited for the exact environment.
At the moment my biggest concern is building a 600W DC DC converter from 12V to 70V for the amp (or spending pointless money on 600W/1200W car amp which would run at 300W…). I might have to start all over with a different speaker after all…
I can always close up or the port to get a closed box. I think that some fiddling with a variable length port and response + impedance measurements during that will give me the best result suited for the exact environment.
At the moment my biggest concern is building a 600W DC DC converter from 12V to 70V for the amp (or spending pointless money on 600W/1200W car amp which would run at 300W…). I might have to start all over with a different speaker after all…
If the car is going to be providing the power, it might be cheaper to just power the rig using car audio amplifiers and add an extra battery or two if necessary. I do the same thing with my portable PA system (though, it is a bit smaller than what you're considering). Powerful class D car audio amplifiers are pretty cheap these days.
Try a pro bass cabinet with that beyma or similar driver on a good 20 watt amplifier. I think you will find that 300 watts are ridiculously too much for staying in the car while playing. Also; An amps ohm rating is the most important when partnering with a subs impedance
I probably missed some details so just to clarify:
Powering outside the car is not a problem since for that, a mains powered PA amp would be available.
Powering inside the car is what’s worrying me because a car amp that would be able to feed 300w into 8 ohm is gonna be expensive as hell. If I went a DIY route I’d get an amp board that would be able to push 300W into 8R but that would need a separate DC-DC converter with output of around 70V (or +- 70V if not bridged) with 600W peak delivery capabilities. Such a converter is also going to be expensive as hell or hard to design and build.
Re needing 300W - right now in my own car I have a 2x10” in a 140L box fed by 2x150W amp and my friend for which I’m designing this project wants something way more powerful than what I have. Simulations show that the setup we’re discussing here would be around 6dB louder at the same 300w as mine which should be close to 2x louder in perceived volume.
Powering outside the car is not a problem since for that, a mains powered PA amp would be available.
Powering inside the car is what’s worrying me because a car amp that would be able to feed 300w into 8 ohm is gonna be expensive as hell. If I went a DIY route I’d get an amp board that would be able to push 300W into 8R but that would need a separate DC-DC converter with output of around 70V (or +- 70V if not bridged) with 600W peak delivery capabilities. Such a converter is also going to be expensive as hell or hard to design and build.
Re needing 300W - right now in my own car I have a 2x10” in a 140L box fed by 2x150W amp and my friend for which I’m designing this project wants something way more powerful than what I have. Simulations show that the setup we’re discussing here would be around 6dB louder at the same 300w as mine which should be close to 2x louder in perceived volume.
Yep, that’s over 360€ (Incl. taxes) for 300W… IMO over 1€/W is ridiculous. And cheaper car amps rarely get even close to their rated output because of weak internal DC-DC converters which can’t hold their output voltage under load. I took apart a few cheap/mid class units and measured extreme voltage sag, some even do it intentionally to provide a short burst and then turn their supply down to prevent it from exploding.
About the speaker itself - does anyone know any decent EU based shops? So far I have a pretty hard time trying to find any decent 4 ohm 18” PA subs in EU but that might be because I don’t really know where to look, I pretty much only know about soundimports and some random small shops that I googled but no luck there…
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/
PS, you sometimes get better pricing by creating a user ID and signing in rather than just browsing as an anon visitor.
PS, you sometimes get better pricing by creating a user ID and signing in rather than just browsing as an anon visitor.
Williston Audio Labs has lots of reviews/tests of amps on YouTube (including cheap ones).
Here's a recent one that seems to fit your goals. It's US$125 at the moment.
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If you friends car have one of these(Whatever they are called in English)
https://media.seek4cars.net/s3/s4c-...7/MKP44098-638194020830720000.jpg?w=600&h=338
Then he can do what I did in my old car.
I replaced it with carpeted plywood. Mounted 2 15" PA subs (Fane Pro 15-600LF) on it, with Speak-on connectors for easy removal.
Using the entire trunk as a "box"
Used the original wiring and put a whopping 10 Watts through them from the head unit. That would make the entire car rattle. No need for extra power.
Made a sub-box to mount them in when not in the car. The subs could easily be mounted in the box because of threaded inserts.
Doing it this way make the trunk useable for everyday stuff while keeping enormous subs in the car. Plus it's cost effective and way easier to do, if you already have some speaker wire running to the trunk
https://media.seek4cars.net/s3/s4c-...7/MKP44098-638194020830720000.jpg?w=600&h=338
Then he can do what I did in my old car.
I replaced it with carpeted plywood. Mounted 2 15" PA subs (Fane Pro 15-600LF) on it, with Speak-on connectors for easy removal.
Using the entire trunk as a "box"
Used the original wiring and put a whopping 10 Watts through them from the head unit. That would make the entire car rattle. No need for extra power.
Made a sub-box to mount them in when not in the car. The subs could easily be mounted in the box because of threaded inserts.
Doing it this way make the trunk useable for everyday stuff while keeping enormous subs in the car. Plus it's cost effective and way easier to do, if you already have some speaker wire running to the trunk
Yeah actually 15 inch are already way too big if you want good sound in a car, but 18 inch can make more noise of coarse.
Cheers!
Cheers!
Thank you all for advice. A little status update:
So far the friend managed to order an amp and a while that’s in shipping he’s working on the box itself. When he’ll have the box made and amp installed we’ll try to put the Beyma in it. If he’s gonna feel like it’s lacking power we’ll return the Beyma and I’ll continue the search for a 4R driver.
So far the friend managed to order an amp and a while that’s in shipping he’s working on the box itself. When he’ll have the box made and amp installed we’ll try to put the Beyma in it. If he’s gonna feel like it’s lacking power we’ll return the Beyma and I’ll continue the search for a 4R driver.
