Outdoors F.A.S.T. speakers... drivers?

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#61
sreten said:
Hi,

The issue with the 1139 is how much you have to slug the midrange,
and in doing that to get the drive to the 1139 the midrange will clip.

Most of the power is in the bass, for your amplifier you want a 8 ohm unit.

Level control on the Vifa should be a series resistor rather than an L-pad.
A triangular section in the top is the easiest way to enclose it. Series
should still work well with with a 2:1 driver impedance ratio though
the details are subtlely different.

If the speakers are going to be very close to walls then the wider and
less deep you make them the less the midrange cancellation issues,
and the lower the c/o frequency that works well will be, for other
reasons depth = width is not a good idea anyway.

As its not a 4 ohm amplifier the twin 8 ohm driver concept is not so good.

The TB 6x9 8ohm seems to fit the bill and it needs around 10L stuffed.
It will need the silicone spray treatment I assume.

I'd say your looking at 3L or so for the vifa and a total internal of say 13L.

rgds, sreten.
Click to expand...

The yamaha amp shouldn't be any problem as regards to load.... If I recall correctly, the amp is 2Ohm stable.
 
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#68
It should be able to handle 4Ohm loads as longs as only 1 pair is connected (according to the manual). Knowing the quality of yamaha (currently using a 1992(?) cdx-530e cd-player and got to use a 5xx (don't remember the exact model anymore since over 10years ago) amp in the past. A few months ago we also audiotionned an ax-397 on "crappy" B&W 684's and still were pretty impressed.
 
#69
Xeentje;2278706 said:
It should be able to handle 4Ohm loads as longs as only 1 pair is connected (according to the manual). Knowing the quality of yamaha (currently using a 1992(?) cdx-530e cd-player and got to use a 5xx (don't remember the exact model anymore since over 10years ago) amp in the past. A few months ago we also audiotionned an ax-397 on "crappy" B&W 684's and still were pretty impressed.
Click to expand...

hi,

It does need to handle 4ohm as the Vifa middle/treble driver is 4 ohm.
But I cannot see any real advantage for 4 ohm bass units over 8 ohms.
For a proper 4 ohm amplifier there would be.

rgds, sreten.
 
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#70
chris661 said:
I'm a little curious about "dynamic power" - similar to peak power, I guess...

Amplifier Power Ratings
Click to expand...

Hi,

Its related to short term unclipped RMS power, but unlike RMS which uses
a constant load, causing a supply droop, the average power and droop
is far lower, very more related to the midrange/treble than bass stuff.

i.e. a typical test signal would be modulated 1kHz,
10:1 mark/space ratio and a 1:10 amplitude ratio.

rgds, sreten.
 
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#72
Hi,

Not at all, but thanks to the notary, we will only be able to start moving into the house from Septembre the 14th (knowing that our current rental contract only goes to Septembre the 30th)!!!
After we've rushed into the house, we have a lot of other things to do and spend money on (buying some new furniture, buying a new freezer, probably a new fridge too, buying and installing an airconditioning/heating system...) so this little project has to wait for a while.

We've also realized we're gonna have to buy some gear to be able to build the new in-door speakers, and that's more important than the out-doors ones...

Isabelle
 
#73
Hi all,

FYI: Emptying my trash bin: Some observations I hesitated to post until now..

b
 

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#74
Candisa said:
Hi,


We've also realized we're gonna have to buy some gear to be able to build the
new in-door speakers, and that's more important than the out-doors ones...

Isabelle
Click to expand...

Hi,

Do you really want to design your indoor speakers from scratch ?
And get all the equipment and software tools etc for one (or two)
pairs of speakers ?
When loads of people have done lots of the hard work for you ?
There are quite a few good designs out there to be recognised.

rgds, sreten.

Paul Carmody's DIY Audio Projects - undefinition
Zaph|Audio
RJB Audio Projects
Speaker Design Works
HTGuide Forum - A Guide to HTguide.com Completed Speaker Designs.
Humble Homemade Hifi
Click below to go to
Quarter Wavelength Loudspeaker Design
The Frugal-Horns Site -- High Performance, Low Cost DIY Horn Designs
Linkwitz Lab - Loudspeaker Design
Music and Design
 
#76
Candisa said:
Yes, because:
- We've already got the drivers
- We were planning to buy a soundcard with phantom power and a measuring microphone anyways to tune the car-system properly.
- You can get very far with free software

Isabelle
Click to expand...

Hi,

Cool, all good reasons, especially as you already have the drivers.
FWIW for in-car stuff I've found a a good test CD and my ears very
useful, sliding tones and then homing in with pink noise 1/3 oct bands.

rgds, sreten.

see : FRD Consortium tools guide
and : Speaker Workshop Measurement Setup Procedure
 
#77
Hi,

The drivers we're gonna use for the indoor speakers are:
Fountek NeoCD1.0 tweeters
TangBand W4-1137 mids
HiVi M8a woofers
Peerless 12" XXLS (Nomex coned version made for use in combination with PR's)
Peerless 10" PR's (2 per speaker)

We already have all of this except for 1 PR (I've bought 3 of them together with the 2 subs quite a while ago), so we have to find one more.

The tweeter+mid+woofer will be filtered passively and powered by the regular amp (probably a Yamaha AX-497), the subs will have their own amp (probably a Reckhorn A-40x or some PA amp).


I agree a good test CD and using your ears is great for in-car audio, but since we won't go the classic component-set + subwoofer route, but go all active with a 3-ways subless frontstage (CSS Trio8 + TangBand W4-1137 + Dayton ND20FB), steered 2-ways center (TangBand W4-1137 + ND20FB) and ambient rear-fill (maybe a pair of TangBand W4-1320?), it is very very hard to tune this by ear only, so a good basic RTA setup will make tuning a LOT easier and faster 😉

Off course we're gonna make 2 dedicated threads for the in-door speakers and the in-car project when the time is there.

Isabelle
 
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