I use Kester #: 24-6040-0039 but you may want lead free and may not want to buy a full pound if you're only doing a few repairs.
For a desoldering pump that works buy a Edsyn Soldapullt DS017 directly from Edsyn.
For braid, the most important is to buy fresh braid that has flux in it. Additional liquid flux can help it be more efficient. The Kester 186 (one of the few things I'd buy on ebay) is a good general purpose flux. 0.1" wide flux is the most common.
We're not at the part-ordering point here but... do NOT buy electronic components from ebay or amazon. Use Mouser or Digi-key.
For a desoldering pump that works buy a Edsyn Soldapullt DS017 directly from Edsyn.
For braid, the most important is to buy fresh braid that has flux in it. Additional liquid flux can help it be more efficient. The Kester 186 (one of the few things I'd buy on ebay) is a good general purpose flux. 0.1" wide flux is the most common.
We're not at the part-ordering point here but... do NOT buy electronic components from ebay or amazon. Use Mouser or Digi-key.
Amp was blowing fuse when in car , as soon as i turned on radio a few seconds fuse pops one of two fuses. Was that shorted out 2n6491 the cause
Probably.
Clamp all transistors down snugly with the bars. Install 2 10 amp fuses in place of the original fuses.
Make absolutely sure that there are no solder bridges between the pads where you removed the transistors.
Does the amp blow the fuses with the two shorted transistors out of the amp?
Clamp all transistors down snugly with the bars. Install 2 10 amp fuses in place of the original fuses.
Make absolutely sure that there are no solder bridges between the pads where you removed the transistors.
Does the amp blow the fuses with the two shorted transistors out of the amp?
Will check tomorrow morning, so with out/removed shorted 2n6491 put back clamps and test in car to see if fuses pop
In some countries, lead free isn't allowed. I prefer the leaded solder because I get better looking solder connections.
When you test the amp, just make sure that it's working at a low level without blowing fuses.
You're going to have to decide how much work you're going to want to do on this amp. Do you want to get it as reliable as possible or do you want to just get it working?
When you test the amp, just make sure that it's working at a low level without blowing fuses.
You're going to have to decide how much work you're going to want to do on this amp. Do you want to get it as reliable as possible or do you want to just get it working?
reliable as possible, with all matching part power fets , output transistors ext. I don't like all these mix matching parts . Who ever had this amp before me, work on it did a crapy job . I'm no expert but I know good and bad
Then you'll need to replace virtually everything on the sides of the board.
When you start replacing the transistors, place them so that they're all perpendicular to the board and the same distance from the board. It takes a bit more effort but looks better.
Lay the board in the sink and replace them there. Clamp the transistors and the board down and solder everything down.
I'd use heatsink compound on the sil pad (dow corning 340 is a good choice).
If the sil pad is damaged, you'll need to replace it as well.
When you start replacing the transistors, place them so that they're all perpendicular to the board and the same distance from the board. It takes a bit more effort but looks better.
Lay the board in the sink and replace them there. Clamp the transistors and the board down and solder everything down.
I'd use heatsink compound on the sil pad (dow corning 340 is a good choice).
If the sil pad is damaged, you'll need to replace it as well.
Ok will test amp tomorrow with out shorted 2n6491 inplace . We'll go from there. Ordering and Changing all 2N6488s , 2N6491s transistors and Power fets ,what's the original fets I see NDP7060 , IRFZ48V and TP50N06V or an upgraded/better fets
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The NDP7060 is fine. The IRF3205 is another option that many people (myself included) use.
Is the silpad damaged?
Is the silpad damaged?
Best? They're a good FET for this era amps.
Are the transistors sticking to the silpad?
Will the board lift out of the heatsink?
The silpad has to be undamaged where the transistor mates to the heatsink.
Are the transistors sticking to the silpad?
Will the board lift out of the heatsink?
The silpad has to be undamaged where the transistor mates to the heatsink.
IRFZ3205 FETs for power supply. Will existing gate resistors work ? On silpad i can just replace with new no heat sink compound need right
Where are you going to get a new silpad like that?
I don't change the gate resistors unless they're out of tolerance.
I don't change the gate resistors unless they're out of tolerance.
I've never found it in long strips.
Most people use Kapton tape and with that, you must use heatsink compound.
Most people use Kapton tape and with that, you must use heatsink compound.
Ok ... I tested amp in car with 15amp fuses. + - wire to amp and remote turn on radio amp powered on few seconds then popped one fuse . When trying to replace fuse that popped I see a short/spark in fuse socket. Also tried removing + - wires , remote off then I'm able to install fuse it's sounds like it shorts , then when I go to install + - power harness I get a short/spark as soon as It makes contact with studs . So now I'm not able to fully install power harness with out short/spark and popping one of the fuses
Attachments
Yes on the 1st 5 fets on each side , from 2-3 leg I have short on 5 fets from each side
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