when i have the time ,i will take the filters out of the speaker ,and make schematis for the scm100 and the scm50
the twetters can you bye from atc ,they released their own tweeter not long ago
so a lot of the old seas/atc twetters must be out there for sale
i will upgrade my seas/atc twetters to the new ones
and put them up for sale second hand ,sometime next year
I know that they released their own tweeter recently, however ATC is not selling them.
only if you're customer and have a pair of ATC speakers already.
but not for DIY nor OEM
Hello, Im new to the forum and seems that is the most advanced place to have the right expert advice.
Recently I changed my beloved 50s passive to 100 passive and that was actully a blind change with a short overview with my fellow.
After getting 100s at home from the first sounds I noticed that the sound signature is completely different from what I heard in 50s. The sound is bright in HF and MF and lack of bass region. Actually i dont heare punch and oomph even in the size of 50's. I think that there is problem in 100-300 hz region.
1-2 days after i decided to check crossovers and found some unpleasant view.
I even cant imagine what happened to these wonderfull and expensive speakers. But I decided not to give up and restore it and keep it.
1) First off all im trying to get original crossovers to the speakers. They produced in 2011
2) Its hard to look at bass drivers S/N to check are they original (from these speakers) or they installed later after some problem. The S/N of speakers are 5278, 5279 - Are all bass drivers have the same specs and impedance.. means that I can order just ordinary crossovers?
3) I took out HF drivers and sent the request to SEAS to check that they are also original drivers installed to my ATC100 or also changed. Their S/N are E000606-2411231 and E000606-2411232
4) I can not get out MF drivers to check their S/N
So my big concern is whether stock crossover will help? Are all drivers have the same impedance and i should not care about it?
Thank you a lot for your opinions.
Recently I changed my beloved 50s passive to 100 passive and that was actully a blind change with a short overview with my fellow.
After getting 100s at home from the first sounds I noticed that the sound signature is completely different from what I heard in 50s. The sound is bright in HF and MF and lack of bass region. Actually i dont heare punch and oomph even in the size of 50's. I think that there is problem in 100-300 hz region.
1-2 days after i decided to check crossovers and found some unpleasant view.
I even cant imagine what happened to these wonderfull and expensive speakers. But I decided not to give up and restore it and keep it.
1) First off all im trying to get original crossovers to the speakers. They produced in 2011
2) Its hard to look at bass drivers S/N to check are they original (from these speakers) or they installed later after some problem. The S/N of speakers are 5278, 5279 - Are all bass drivers have the same specs and impedance.. means that I can order just ordinary crossovers?
3) I took out HF drivers and sent the request to SEAS to check that they are also original drivers installed to my ATC100 or also changed. Their S/N are E000606-2411231 and E000606-2411232
4) I can not get out MF drivers to check their S/N
So my big concern is whether stock crossover will help? Are all drivers have the same impedance and i should not care about it?
Thank you a lot for your opinions.
So, what is so unpleasant? Do you mean the blackening of the board around the 3R3 resistor? Does not look serious.
could anybody please provide original scheme for AT100 with SEAS HF drivers effective in 2011 year.
That i cannot say from looking at the picture. If the resistor is indeed the source of the black soot measure it and replace.
It is just a resistor and not even a nice one. What better excuse to upgrade all the resistors to something decent like Mundorf or Caddock?
Otoh, if the resistor was so severely overloaded it seems unlikely the dome midranges walked away unscathed.
IMO the crossover is easy to check and repair if needed, as the resistors are the only parts that can possibly fail.
thank you. Hopefullu shortly I will measure the drivers and crossovers.
How to be sure that the drivers are OK? impedance?
And one more offtop question. The bass driver 12" have some marks it seems that somebody used a wet cloth.. are there any liquid/spray to restore original glossy surface?
I'm also going active with my DIY ATC clones with mini dsp.
Feel free to share your crossover settings, time align delay , polarity reverse etc.
I think I'm struggling with mine 🙂
Feel free to share your crossover settings, time align delay , polarity reverse etc.
I think I'm struggling with mine 🙂
crossover proac ebs
Hello, can anyone help me .
I have a PROAC EBS and I have replaced the ATC SM75-150 medium with an 8 ohm medium.
I have done some Wilmslow Audio crossover but the result is worse than leaving it original.
I just want to modify this part of the crossover the ATC SM75-150 that comes from 16 ohm and put the new 8 ohm.
I include the original diagram.
Hello, can anyone help me .
I have a PROAC EBS and I have replaced the ATC SM75-150 medium with an 8 ohm medium.
I have done some Wilmslow Audio crossover but the result is worse than leaving it original.
I just want to modify this part of the crossover the ATC SM75-150 that comes from 16 ohm and put the new 8 ohm.
I include the original diagram.
I do not quite understand....Have you replaced anATC SM75-150 driver with a different make of midrange, or with a different impedance ATC driver?
And what do you mean by 'done some Wilmslow Audio crossover'?
I don't think you can easily replace the EBS's ATC midrange with any other make of speaker and expect it to sound right.....
What was wrong with the original ATC midrange?
I expect that if you had talked to ATC,they could have solved your problem with the original ATC midrange.
And what do you mean by 'done some Wilmslow Audio crossover'?
I don't think you can easily replace the EBS's ATC midrange with any other make of speaker and expect it to sound right.....
What was wrong with the original ATC midrange?
I expect that if you had talked to ATC,they could have solved your problem with the original ATC midrange.
Sorry, but I respectfully have to disagree. It wasn't fully clear.
In any case, you can't get the same ATC driver with just a different impedance.
ATC have supplied their 8 ohm driver to a number of companies including Celef and Proac for use in their speakers, but have never released their 16 ohm driver, which is far superior.
Wilmslow Audio are only allowed by ATC to sell the cheaper 8 ohm speaker as part of their DIY 'kits'.
ATC understandably save their 'Super' version for their own branded speakers.
The SM75-150 is 8 ohm, the SM75-150S is 16 ohm, they sound similar, but then Arnold Scwarzeneger and I both have the same roots. 🙂
The 150S version is a much more efficient speaker.
Same frame, different magnet strength, different specs. Different speaker.
In any case, you can't get the same ATC driver with just a different impedance.
ATC have supplied their 8 ohm driver to a number of companies including Celef and Proac for use in their speakers, but have never released their 16 ohm driver, which is far superior.
Wilmslow Audio are only allowed by ATC to sell the cheaper 8 ohm speaker as part of their DIY 'kits'.
ATC understandably save their 'Super' version for their own branded speakers.
The SM75-150 is 8 ohm, the SM75-150S is 16 ohm, they sound similar, but then Arnold Scwarzeneger and I both have the same roots. 🙂
The 150S version is a much more efficient speaker.
Same frame, different magnet strength, different specs. Different speaker.
If that is the case, then I stand corrected!
I do know that ATC made the non-S version available for DIY users for a long time through Wilmslow Audio and a few other companies, but that has stopped now.
Whatever impedance versions Have been made by ATC (and I still think the S is 16ohm, the non S is 8ohm and, if you say so, a 16ohm version too, they have some quite different performance characteristics.
This may be worth reading:
http://studio-hifi.com/images/ATC75-150S_JeffBagby.pdf
And, by the way, to the best of my knowledge, the similar looking and excellent Volt drivers are NOT the same!