You’ll have PCB to give to other DIYers!
😎
😎
They can't make just one PCB, they make a full panel anyway... Normally several more than ordered are made behind the scenes in case some fail the flying-probe testing.
Don’t these guys put multiple designs - and can even be from different customers - on a panel, to optimize the use of each panel? Many of these prototypes are pretty small. People ordering entire stereo amplifiers on one single PCB are the exception rather than the rule. I’ve gotten up charges on 11x12 boards (still relatively cheap, but more per square inch than standard). Funny thing the 18.5x5 inch prototype didn’t trigger a surcharge for size, but it did for the 2 ounce copper.
I appreciate this thread, Mark. I just placed my first orders with JLCPCB in part with the encouragement of this thread (it's a pretty simple process but the guidance is appreciated). I'd wanted to get some boards manufactured in the past but thought it would be too complicated and expensive. We'll see how it all transpires, but one board with quantity of 5, the other 10, and it cost me under $10US with a first timer coupon. I'll likely pass on extra boards to DIYers here. Glad to finally have the experience. Now to learn something like Kicad to start laying out and building my own boards! That and find an affordable local manufacturer (US-based). For that I also appreciate some of the mentions above.
JLCPCB can assemble boards if you need them. There are unlikely to be economical alternatives in the US even if our projects are subject to tariffs.
1206 are large(!) once you realize magnifiers are essential for electronics and get some good optical aids. 0805 is a good general size. Also non-magnetic tweezers become required with the smaller SMT devices.
Yeah, that's what everyone keeps telling me. Especially Kevin! But it's more than my eyes (which, with a bad astigmatism and declining vision overall, especially in low light, are a hurdle). My hands are also increasingly shaky. When building a project recently I dropped two 1206s on the floor when the nylon tweezers misfired in my hands. I found one but the other was lost and was the last of my stash, so the project went on hold until I could order more. Thankfully they tend to be remarkably inexpensive so I always order at least twice what I need.
I'll probably be able to handle 1206 for a while longer, but smaller than that and I suspect I'll have REAL problems! I wish it weren't so, but alas...
Oh, and I do have magnifiers with a variety of different magnification lenses. They only help so much and do nothing for my hands!
I'll probably be able to handle 1206 for a while longer, but smaller than that and I suspect I'll have REAL problems! I wish it weren't so, but alas...
Oh, and I do have magnifiers with a variety of different magnification lenses. They only help so much and do nothing for my hands!
I use 2.5 reading glasses and a magnifying glass for checking soldering on SMD.
A wrist placed on your work surface can help with shaky hands.
I have had about 450 different designs with JLCPCB and had a problem twice.
One was a 6mm drill hole through one pcb which shouldnt have been there.
The other was them changing gerber file extension names and I got a couple of pcb's with solder mask on wrong sides of the pcb.
But all got sorted in the end.
A wrist placed on your work surface can help with shaky hands.
I have had about 450 different designs with JLCPCB and had a problem twice.
One was a 6mm drill hole through one pcb which shouldnt have been there.
The other was them changing gerber file extension names and I got a couple of pcb's with solder mask on wrong sides of the pcb.
But all got sorted in the end.
Many tweezers can a launch a part off into the general working space if the tweezer is gripped too tightly (especially for tweezers with the ends bent at an angle, such as Aven #7). You can check for that possibility by gradually squeezing the tweezers closed and observe if at some point of squeezing pressure the tips start to open up again. I have fixed that in some tweezers by slightly bending the tips, and or by filing out a little material where the fulcrum that causes the tips to open is located.
I've been using JLCPCB for some time now with no complaints. Just recently I found that another branch (JLCMC) sells aluminum enclosures for what I consider crazy-cheap, compared to domestic sources. For example, I priced a 69 x 27 x 100mm enclosure (for an active headphone crossfeed PCB) at less than $2. Going with their cheapest shipping and the total still is less than $5. You can get the enclosures in natural aluminum or black-anodized, although the anodized is a little bit more.
I've got a small brake and machining tools and I don't think I can beat that price. Certainly not and get an as-nice looking one.
I've got a small brake and machining tools and I don't think I can beat that price. Certainly not and get an as-nice looking one.
I've been using JLCPCB for a few years (the first one I tried, recommended on the forum by the way) and I haven't had any problems either. Pretty quick in delivery and an easy platform to upload and view your Gerbers. The "basic" boards are perhaps a little thin for certain uses but easy to drill for further modding.All in all for the cost I'm fine with it.
I didn't know about JLCMC but the homepage looks like JLCPCB's brother, there's a good selection of cheap aluminum enclosures, although mostly are small.
I didn't know about JLCMC but the homepage looks like JLCPCB's brother, there's a good selection of cheap aluminum enclosures, although mostly are small.
"although mostly are small."
True.
The largest I found is W127 x H75 x L160 or for us US types 5" x 2.953" x 6.3". Its cost (minus shipping): about 4.10USD. Add 73 cents if you want black-anodized. Tack on ~$1.80 for their cheapest shipping option. So not suitable for that monster class-A amp you might be working on but good for lots of less ambitious projects. Headphone amp, phono preamp, little power supply.....
True.
The largest I found is W127 x H75 x L160 or for us US types 5" x 2.953" x 6.3". Its cost (minus shipping): about 4.10USD. Add 73 cents if you want black-anodized. Tack on ~$1.80 for their cheapest shipping option. So not suitable for that monster class-A amp you might be working on but good for lots of less ambitious projects. Headphone amp, phono preamp, little power supply.....
Just thought I'd report that the boards arrived from JLCPCB a day or two ago. They look great. Haven't tested the traces and won't likely build anything until late December or early 2025, but I am glad to have finally taken the plunge.
Carlp, maybe you'll realize that drilling holes (if you need to) in the PCB is quite easy, that means that board is not so thick or the vetronite is not top quality. All in all, JLCPCB boards for the price and services are ok for most uses, I found myself well with them.
I've used 2512's in a few cases for power. Maybe switch to 2512's for easy soldering, but they are big. And oddly, price goes up quite a bit from the 1206 which is my goto size as well for easy soldering/handling. And I always buy min 25 or 50 even if I only need one. It's like buying one grain of rice they are so inexpensive at the 1206 size. Curious, anyone have a good way to store them? I had a project I needed matched and so hand matched and the leftovers are currently in a old 35mm film canister. There must be something better after they have been freed from the original tape. I guess I could just toss them, since it is probably a quarter's worth of parts, but waste not want not.
I store my smd devices in the bags they came in from the distributor. That way I have the information on the label and add more info as necessary.
Better write down what was printed on the label when you get them. In large print. The original ink will be gone in 6 months. Too small to read without glasses/magnifier anyway.
Yes the issue with thermal printing, 6 months or less if the sunlight hits them but they do degrade over time that is for sure even in the dark. It seems heat is worse, so do not put them in your pants pocket. The ones I see fading get hand written info before it’s lost.
I have Mouser bags in my build kits that are 3-4 years old now and the label printing is still fine
I agree some of the printing on the new labels on Digikey bags is way to small but being myopic I am fine 🙂
I have Mouser bags in my build kits that are 3-4 years old now and the label printing is still fine
I agree some of the printing on the new labels on Digikey bags is way to small but being myopic I am fine 🙂
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