Open Source Monkey Box

Is there a suggested type of plywood I should get from Home Depot? The plywood in some of those pictures looks very nice and smooth. ( marine plywood or something similar? ) I would not veneer them. I would paint them white like the pics in the thread.
 
I used 3/4" for my build and but I am not a wood worker/expert. Before purchasing multiples of those sheets, I would recommend getting a quote from Ocooch (mentioned above). Not only were their prices competitive, but they offer panels accurately cut to your specs, which is handy if you don't have a workshop. I paid $255 for the BB plywood for my speakers, including shipping.
 
Just need to make sure the home depot baltic birch 3/4" plywood is high grade/smooth and has not air pockets etc. It all seems to come from Russia but not sure how to ensure the grade of home depot Baltic Birch is high enough for speakers and if there are varying grades. ( even if they all originate from Russia, could be differences in grade I guess ) I'm guessing building the cabinet is most of the work?
 
So the front panel is 20mm and the rest of the sides are 22mm. The brace is 16mm. None of those thicknesses match up to 1/2", 3/4" plywood. Do I need to plane down the boards? Will using different thickness potentially mess up the math/specs of the sound?

@maximax77 apparently the baltic birch has no knots, and is higher grade. There are complaints in the review section of home depot birch plywood from Canada including holes that go 2 or 3 layers deep and knots.

We have Ply-Supply in canada and I'll get a quote from them. They seem to have the good stuff. They call it 'cabinet grade baltic birch' and they all 5/8" which is 16mm.
 
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Do I need to plane down the boards?
No:
  • I would see these thicknesses as the minimum. No harm to go over.
  • What needs to be kept as per the original are the baffle dimensions and driver placements, and the internal volume. The internal volume, taking into account the braces but not the drivers or anything else, is around 75 litres.
  • So you adjust the depth of the enclosure to keep the volume constant as you change thicknesses, add a brace etc
  • The complication is the volt driver which needs a 20mm thick baffle. I used a router to reduce the back of my 24mm baffle to 20mm. The drivers are closely spaced so a router, or cnc, is your only option.
  • You can laminate several layers of ply if you wish.
They call it 'cabinet grade baltic birch' and they all 5/8" which is 16mm.
Sounds like a good start but no way 16mm is the only thickness. Keep looking for suppliers. Usually the diy stores don’t have high grade materials, more like construction grade.
 
Just curious; If I build the cabinets, is it possible to swap to other drivers in the future if I want ( or use cheaper ones for example )? Will I be able to make adjustments to the cabinet to accommodate drivers with similar specs, considering all but 1 side will be glued? Just trying to get an idea of how 'versatile' the cabinet is. ( I plan on using the recommended drivers for my first build though )
 
In this case, a removable front baffle could be a solution.
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You could look at Troel's website for inspiration.

At this point, one of the experienced builders usually chime in: "don't overthink it...just do it" 😆