Making some more progress. Crossovers next.
I used rattle-can Varathane water-based satin spray poly since I was not able to get the brush on poly to level well. The spray also did not level well, but was able to get a reasonable finish using a foam brush while the spray was still wet. 3-4 coats.
I did use the Benjamin Moore paint that pfarrell suggested.
I don't understand "1K or 2K", sorry.
I will not try water-based finishes in the future. My skills are not good enough. Oil-based is much more friendly to my abilities.
The finish looks reasonable at 3 feet.
I did use the Benjamin Moore paint that pfarrell suggested.
I don't understand "1K or 2K", sorry.
I will not try water-based finishes in the future. My skills are not good enough. Oil-based is much more friendly to my abilities.
The finish looks reasonable at 3 feet.
Great work bsk!
one or two-component varnish, the latter with sepatate hardener to be mixed prior to application.
Quick update. I have listened to the 8 cm ports for a few weeks and prefer these to the longer/11 cm ones. It is entirely possible I am imagining this, but there seems to be a little more mid-bass/heft to the low end. This could also just be the drivers loosening up.
The Rt2 in the tweeter crossovers is now 1R. At first, I preferred 1.2, then 1.1 and now 1 ohm in this position. Whether the drivers/components changed or my ears adapted...who knows. Just thought I would share for future builders.
The Rt2 in the tweeter crossovers is now 1R. At first, I preferred 1.2, then 1.1 and now 1 ohm in this position. Whether the drivers/components changed or my ears adapted...who knows. Just thought I would share for future builders.
it should be noted that while tilting the speaker so that the tweeter is poiting at your head solves the response issue at the listening position, nevertheless, the stereo image will 'sit' on the ground. raising the speaker offers the benefit of an elevated position of the image in relation to the listener. obviously, the speaker box will also be much more prominent in this case.
Group Buy: Peerless by Tympahny DFM-2535R00-08 (unobtanium extraordinary HiFi compression driver bulk order)
Last edited:
Hello, I'm building this project with the help of two friends. I would very much like to keep the crossover boards inside the cabinets for convenience. Is there is an appreciable performance reason for keeping them outside? If inside, should I increase the cabinet size (by depth) to account for volume of parts (which I will have to guesstimate)? Any suggestions on where to locate the boards inside the cabinet? Thanks
Greets!
Depends on how big compared the cab, but generally, no, though you can wrap then in Saran Wrap or put them in garbage/whatever bag and see how much water/whatever they displace and heat rises, so in the bottom.
Depends on how big compared the cab, but generally, no, though you can wrap then in Saran Wrap or put them in garbage/whatever bag and see how much water/whatever they displace and heat rises, so in the bottom.
According to the build instructions, the lower half of the back has to be covered with basotect so placing the crossover in the upper half would make sense. The braces might get in the way but I would do separate boards for each woofer anyway. The downside is that boards up there are difficult to service. External crossovers make component upgrades and changes to the tweeter resistor much easier.
One reason not to put the crossovers in the boxes is weight. My cabs weigh 30Kg/66lbs each without the crossovers and the crossovers are heavy with all of the inductors.
Hi,
The weigth will not improve the cabinet. If the volume of the parts is planned in the internal volume from design, then do. Being outside simplifies the crossover tunings and further tweaks if you are perfectionist. It can also permits to make farer some coils from each others (coupling) , though good practices of coils layout are still mandatory. There are good advices in Troels Gravsen's site btw.
The weigth will not improve the cabinet. If the volume of the parts is planned in the internal volume from design, then do. Being outside simplifies the crossover tunings and further tweaks if you are perfectionist. It can also permits to make farer some coils from each others (coupling) , though good practices of coils layout are still mandatory. There are good advices in Troels Gravsen's site btw.
@Sorenm put them in the bottom/back—images are one page back in this thread—I can't attest to the sonic affects if any—but seeing as how you probably don't want these sitting directly on the floor—I put my Xovers in plinths/risers. Same footprint as the speakers—and access when you want it.
Sure you can mount the xovers inside the cabinet. Just compensate a little bit for the approximate volume, but please don't get hung up with drowning your xovers in water to determine the exact volume to 17 digits of precision.
The advantage of keeping the xovers outside is that (i) it's a lot easier to tweak the resistor values to your liking and (ii) the sound pressure inside the box is very high and it's a good idea to keep the xover inductors away from this noise (they can be microphonic).
The advantage of keeping the xovers outside is that (i) it's a lot easier to tweak the resistor values to your liking and (ii) the sound pressure inside the box is very high and it's a good idea to keep the xover inductors away from this noise (they can be microphonic).
You can do Archimed way. You put rhe filter on a floating récipient and measure with a laser how much the water climb...ahaha.
Anyway I am even not sure the braces volume is calculated and anyway the Vas of the 12pr320 rised also between two datasheet.
You should be goodcirca 10l précision. Just be sure there is a cab behind the Faital, lol.
Anyway I am even not sure the braces volume is calculated and anyway the Vas of the 12pr320 rised also between two datasheet.
You should be goodcirca 10l précision. Just be sure there is a cab behind the Faital, lol.
That will give you the mass of the xovers, not the volume.