So I just blew up 5 Burr Brown OPA2134 due to bad labelling on the PCB (Ok I was also supposed to be more careful). But now I have to replace them. OPA2134 costs an arm and a leg. Can anyone suggest drop-in replacements to OPA2134? I'm looking for a natural, transparent sound vs colored. How are LME49860, LME49720 etc? Are they drop-in replacements? Any other recommendations? My project is the 2 way 24dB / octave crossover from ESP
Linkwitz-Riley Electronic Crossover
Linkwitz-Riley Electronic Crossover
Build the cross over with some cheap op amps. When you have it working good, replace the cheap one with better ones.
There are many suitable opamps. If cost is a real concern then use the 4558. You should be able to get those very cheaply indeed.
I would have gone for a TL072 or again if cost is an issue, the TL082.
They are all common devices... we have no way of knowing what suppliers you use and what they have available.
Also you should only buy semiconductors from recognised suppliers as there are lots of fake and sub standard parts out there.
I would have gone for a TL072 or again if cost is an issue, the TL082.
They are all common devices... we have no way of knowing what suppliers you use and what they have available.
Also you should only buy semiconductors from recognised suppliers as there are lots of fake and sub standard parts out there.
Digi-Key has them for just over $4/ea. I wouldn't consider $21 an arm and a leg.
Also, are you sure that you killed them? If you haven't done so, try turning them around to the correct orientation and see if they work.
Also, are you sure that you killed them? If you haven't done so, try turning them around to the correct orientation and see if they work.
I guess what puts me in a dilemma is that Burr Brown branding behind the well known OPA2134 vs. the TI's LME49860, LME49720.
Of course I got the thing working with TL072 and all is running fine at the moment. I may blow a few more but I've got boxes of TL0xx to play with. But testing and stabilising is not the concern here. I'm using My_ref ver. C and I really want to use a reference quality op-amp.
Of course I got the thing working with TL072 and all is running fine at the moment. I may blow a few more but I've got boxes of TL0xx to play with. But testing and stabilising is not the concern here. I'm using My_ref ver. C and I really want to use a reference quality op-amp.
And is it a drop-in replacement? I know the pins are the same but some op-amps don't like capacitative loads.
Mr Elliot said:
"In general, avoid capacitors less than 2.2nF or greater than 470nF. As noted above, low values become susceptible to stray capacitance and high values may cause excessive opamp loading. Likewise, resistors values should be between 2.2k and 22k. Lower values can be used if the opamps can drive low impedances with minimal distortion (e.g. NE5532, OPA2134, LM4562, etc.). If you use TL072 opamps, keep resistor values above 2.2k, and remember that you'll need to include a muting circuit to prevent 'chirps' when power is removed."
"In general, avoid capacitors less than 2.2nF or greater than 470nF. As noted above, low values become susceptible to stray capacitance and high values may cause excessive opamp loading. Likewise, resistors values should be between 2.2k and 22k. Lower values can be used if the opamps can drive low impedances with minimal distortion (e.g. NE5532, OPA2134, LM4562, etc.). If you use TL072 opamps, keep resistor values above 2.2k, and remember that you'll need to include a muting circuit to prevent 'chirps' when power is removed."
That's the same as the LME49720. Just so you know... Same die. Same package. Different label. National went from LM to LMx in the mid/late 2000s. The LM4562 got stuck in the middle.
The OPA1612 is nice as well. It's SMD only, though.
Tom
There is no "bad labeling" on the PCB. I've built several.
LM49720 (4562) will work just fine if you follow ESP instructions.
You want a "reference" part but 2134 is too expensive? 🙄
Peace,
Tom E
LM49720 (4562) will work just fine if you follow ESP instructions.
You want a "reference" part but 2134 is too expensive? 🙄
Peace,
Tom E
I'd use the original chips. They are well worth the $$ and I suspect you want top performance.
Putting these in backwards often degrades their performance if it doesn't kill them outright. Those are all garbage.
-Chris
Putting these in backwards often degrades their performance if it doesn't kill them outright. Those are all garbage.
-Chris
I might have some OPA2134 somewhere, but I know I have quite a few OPA2132. The OPA2134 is just a lower binned version of the OPA2132 with slightly worse DC precision.
Just pay for shipping and be willing to wait for them (I assume you're on the other side of the planet).
Just pay for shipping and be willing to wait for them (I assume you're on the other side of the planet).
you should be looking at buying a dozen @ around 30 cents each.
There are many genuine opamps around that price.
I'm buying from Element14. 5 each. Sorry AndrewT. extremely tight budget and an angry wife. $5,000 down already if not more 🙂
12" JBLs, Philips 48414P, Visaton FR 10, Speaker cabinets, Amp enclosure with CNC cutting, heatsink, anodizing, multiple toroidals and countless HQ passives and actives. I just opened my tool box and realized I have 4 soldering irons (2 are brand new).
I'm ordering 5 each of OPA2134, LM4562 (1/3rd the cost of LME49720), LME49860NA.
LME49860NA is SOIC package so I'm just wondering instead of putting it into a socket I'd just solder it on the other side of the PCB. May have to bend the pins a little backwards. But will be neat.
12" JBLs, Philips 48414P, Visaton FR 10, Speaker cabinets, Amp enclosure with CNC cutting, heatsink, anodizing, multiple toroidals and countless HQ passives and actives. I just opened my tool box and realized I have 4 soldering irons (2 are brand new).
I'm ordering 5 each of OPA2134, LM4562 (1/3rd the cost of LME49720), LME49860NA.
LME49860NA is SOIC package so I'm just wondering instead of putting it into a socket I'd just solder it on the other side of the PCB. May have to bend the pins a little backwards. But will be neat.
I'm also wondering about LM318n. I got a tube of those. Sadly they are only single op-amps as against the dual ones I need.
The LM318 is ancient, but very fast. It was used in audio a lot, and wherever the speed was important.
-Chris
-Chris
Has anybody done SPICE simulations of real opamps in these circuits?
What are the performance problems with 'lesser' opamps?
At first glance, the issues might be:
Driving capacitive loads
Noise
Gain-Bandwidth
Slew rate?
On a real PCB, what are the degradations people are actually measuring?
I'm looking to build active crossovers a some point.I'm more familiar with LC filters personally.
What are the performance problems with 'lesser' opamps?
At first glance, the issues might be:
Driving capacitive loads
Noise
Gain-Bandwidth
Slew rate?
On a real PCB, what are the degradations people are actually measuring?
I'm looking to build active crossovers a some point.I'm more familiar with LC filters personally.
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